Ok here is the complete story. I was driving on the highway at about80 when my car stopped running right, i would push the pedal down and the car wouldn't accelerate. I smelled fuel so i pulled over and turned it off. It turns out i was running to high fuel pressure and i blew the injector, got new fuel injectors and also i replaced the head gasket cause i thought this might be the reason of the car not running right, before i found out it was a fuel injector. Now i go to start the car and it idles a little rough but thats not my concern. It has absolutly no power and seems like its only firing on 3 cylinders. I just checked the Ignitor and the coil and replaced the coil cause that was bad but its still doing the same thing. I bought wires and tired them because i thought maybe a wire was arcing and grounding to the block but with the new wires it still runs the same, i even switched out the Ignitor with another one and still nothing. The plugs are only a couple months old as well as the cap and rotor, they all were working fine before the incident on the high way. Ignition timing is fine as i have adjusted and check that many times, and also belt timing is fine or so i think because ichecked that at least 3 seperate times. im going to look for a vacum leak somewhere tomorrow maybe thats the problem, any one else have and suggestions please help. The car is getting fuel too cause the fuel pump primes when ignition is turned on, and the fuel pressure guage reads at 43psi. here is what i have done to my car

94 b18c engine in EG body
p72 ECU stock
195 lph fuel pump
B&M fuel pressure regulator
cold air intake
headers and Apexi WS exhaust
its basically stock engine

 

check compression in all four cylinders

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dynastix9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check compression in all four cylinders</TD></TR></TABLE>

You should have readings around 200 psi.

 

thanx, is there anyway to check the compression without cranking the engine by hand.

 

check your wires for good connections also do you have good ground connections?usually bogging is from too mucj fuel or weak spark

 

Im going to check grounds tomorrow, i know that the tranny and valve cover are definatly grounded well is there any others i should check? Also from blowing a fuel injector and having the spark plugs soaked in fuel could that have damaged them in some way? I just changed the wires so i know they are good and the cap and rotor are new so im going to buy cheap spark plugs and try them, it sucks cause i had NGK's in there and i just bought them a couple months ago what a waste of money if they are bad now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kreush33 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanx, is there anyway to check the compression without cranking the engine by hand. </TD></TR></TABLE>

pull all of your spark plugs and take a piece of wire (lock wire) and twist it around your throttle butterfly and tie it to you intake to lock the throttle wide open and simply turn the key...the engine will turn over slowly but it wont start

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syner-G-Racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

pull all of your spark plugs and take a piece of wire (lock wire) and twist it around your throttle butterfly and tie it to you intake to lock the throttle wide open and simply turn the key...the engine will turn over slowly but it wont start </TD></TR></TABLE>

Shouldn't you also unplug the injectors so it won't dump fuel into the cylinders

 

thanx thats what i was worried about was the fuel dumping into the cylinders. Didn't really want to have to unplug them all but i'll go ahead and do that cause its easier than turning the engine over by hand. Also does anyone know if the IAB plug would have anything to do with my car running rough. I had to cut the wires for the plug because it would not come off of the connector. Once i got it off the connector after pulling the head i put the wires back together but could a bad connection be causing my rough idle? I know the IAB valve is actuated on vacum pressure not actual volts, thanx

 

bump

 

I think you just pull a fuse to prevent the fuel injectors from firing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shaundrake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think you just pull a fuse to prevent the fuel injectors from firing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Either that or just pull the ECU...Any compression test results yet???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shaundrake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think you just pull a fuse to prevent the fuel injectors from firing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Ok well i did the compression test and it came out good, the results are at the end of this post. Since compression is ok can i assume that i dont need to adjust my valves and that my timing is correct cause if either of these were messed up the valves wouldn't be sealing all the way on the compression stroke and the psi would be low right? When i pulled all the spark plugs i noticed that cylinder 1 2 and 3 all looked the same but cylinder 4 was different. the 3 cylinders that were alike looked like it was a little to hot in the cylinders might have advanced the timing a little bit to much. But the number 4 cylinder looked like it hadn't even fired. I changed out all the plugs and even before doing that i pulled number 4 plug and grounded it to the valve cover to see if it was throwing any spark. It was but it was orange and very week. I thought that either the plug was bad or my cap was bad. So i got new plugs, they didn't have the cap in stock so i couldn't do that. After new plugs car still runs the same, no difference at all. Im thinking maybe the cap. If i change that and its still the same i am gonna be stuck again. What else would make vylinder 4 not fire or produce a very weak spark in just one cylinder?

cylinder#1-240psi
cylinder#2-240psi
cylinder#3-240psi
cylinder#4-250psi


Modified by kreush33 at 5:00 PM 4/5/2004

 

The plug wires or the cap would be the only thing that would cause just one cylinder not to fire properly if they all have new plugs...I would try to borrow a set of wires from someone just to eliminate that possibility. Best of luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SAVIOVEGA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Shouldn't you also unplug the injectors so it won't dump fuel into the cylinders</TD></TR></TABLE>
for three compression strokes for each cylinder you want get enough fuel in there to worry about. but if your concerned and not in a hurry pull your fuse.

 

your compression is definately good, but to be positive you dont have carbon build up or bad retainers etc, do a leak down test. pull you cap off and check you points. if the contact for that cylinder is chiped, worn or discolored thats you problem...put a meter on your wires and check for resistance (bend them and move it to make sure there isnt any broken insulation causing induced interferance etc. the only other thing I can think of right now would be to check your injectors voltage and resistance with a meter at idle and at rev to check if the injector is bad or your haveing induced voltage (break in sheild wire, or lose drain wire connection) or just a chewed up signal wire or ground. I've had a lot of little ghost problems from just a little knick in a sheilded cable of a couple of wires that were crushed a little when droping an engine in...good luck

 

Wires are also brand new, bought them yesturday. Im getting a new cap and rotor tomorrow cause there was some build up on the contacts points of the cap. Hope this fixes my problem. If not i'll go back to checking injectors again, i have four Used but new to the car ones installed. I know i didn't blow all four out so if anything i'll try replacing the #4 cylinder fuel injector with one of my old ones to see if that is the cause of this illusive problem. If all these things fail im just gonna start replacing random parts until i have a brand new car hahahaha, thanx for all the help though guys

 

bump

 

Ok replaced the Cap today with an OEM acura one. All four cylinders are getting spark so i went back and figured i would check the fuel injectors to make sure they were firing. Low and behold Cylinder 4 injector isn't firing. I switched it out with another injector to make sure it wasn't a bad injector. Still nothing. So now im going to check grounds and maybe even see if there is signal coming out of ECU. Has anyone ever had this happen before? If so is there any point in the wires i should check that is prone to a short. I'll keep updating on my progress, even though it is slow haha. At least i know my ignition system is brand new now

 

swapped out the ECU with my friends Jun ECU and car works fine now. So i guess im in the market for an ECU

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=824749

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=796160

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=819493

Those should get yuou started

 

thanx for the links. Jim Truett has Injector Drivers though and he's going to put a new one in my ECU. Hopefully this will fix the problem. Can anyone vouch for Jim's work. Thanx