Does the type-s pistons fit directly into a 1996 not JDM H22 engine?
yep. You have to change rods or rebush them to accept floating piston pins. And those pistons must match block bores' sizes (A or B). Or rebore the block to accept oversized pistons.
Type-s pistons will fit any 87mm bore H22A. Just make sure that you get the right A or B piston and if you like you can get the .25 mm oversized pistons if you want to bore it to that size.
H22A4 rods will work with the floating wristpin. H22A1 rods will need to be rebushed or honed slightly to work with the floating pin. As Far as JDM rods, I don't know if they eventually went to a floating design like the USDM H22A1=>H22A4 did. But I am sure that if you do change your pistons you will figure it out very quickly. If it is the Floating variety pin then you have to remove a clip on one side to remove the pin. Otherwise it is a press-fit pin and to get the piston off you have to get them off the rods with a press. If that is the case then the shop pressing out the pin could proabbly hone the pin bushing a little larger while they are at it.
As far as needing to change your rods, if you check out the OFFICIAL PRELUDE DYNOS thread you will see that even with aggressive cams you still only get peak hp around 7000 rpm. so you will be fine with stock rods for almost all of your all motor applications since it is not that useful to go past the stock fuel cut-off. But since your engine would be all apart you could get a set of Eagle rods for $300. So if you can save $$$ on the pistons then maybe you could invest in the rods too. Whatever floats your boat but since a lot of mods are dictated by the final cost you could save the money on rods and get a better exhaust system or a bunch of dyno time.
the Pirate
H22A4 rods will work with the floating wristpin. H22A1 rods will need to be rebushed or honed slightly to work with the floating pin. As Far as JDM rods, I don't know if they eventually went to a floating design like the USDM H22A1=>H22A4 did. But I am sure that if you do change your pistons you will figure it out very quickly. If it is the Floating variety pin then you have to remove a clip on one side to remove the pin. Otherwise it is a press-fit pin and to get the piston off you have to get them off the rods with a press. If that is the case then the shop pressing out the pin could proabbly hone the pin bushing a little larger while they are at it.
As far as needing to change your rods, if you check out the OFFICIAL PRELUDE DYNOS thread you will see that even with aggressive cams you still only get peak hp around 7000 rpm. so you will be fine with stock rods for almost all of your all motor applications since it is not that useful to go past the stock fuel cut-off. But since your engine would be all apart you could get a set of Eagle rods for $300. So if you can save $$$ on the pistons then maybe you could invest in the rods too. Whatever floats your boat but since a lot of mods are dictated by the final cost you could save the money on rods and get a better exhaust system or a bunch of dyno time.
the Pirate
ok everyone says match a or b.
well i know your supposed to do this, but i have somthing wierd. i have a block, just took out of my car. hasnt been touched but by the factory. has 80k on it.
the block is stamped bbbb on the deck plate. but the top of the piston says p13a. am i looking at the wrong spot(s)?
well i know your supposed to do this, but i have somthing wierd. i have a block, just took out of my car. hasnt been touched but by the factory. has 80k on it.
the block is stamped bbbb on the deck plate. but the top of the piston says p13a. am i looking at the wrong spot(s)?
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the A or B stamp is right there. it is not the cast letters off to the side.
you will have to clean any carbon off to see it. this one is a B sized one...

the Pirate
you will have to clean any carbon off to see it. this one is a B sized one...

the Pirate
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