I have the following done to my motor, what horsepower ranges, boost ranges can i be safe at without breaking them? I want to hear what other people have to say and whats their experience's with stotpeened rods on a boosted daily driven motor. Im about to have it dyno tuneed but dont want to fork the money on dyno tunning when it can go towards my rods then have it dyno'd afterwards.

gsr block sleeved with ductile iron sleeves copper o'rings 81.5mm
CP 9:5-1 compression pistons
OEM polished/balanced crankshaft
gsr shotpeened rods
stock gsr head w/ all type r valvetrain w/ stock gsr cams
Skunk2 intake manifold

t3/60-1 turbonetics turbo
AEM fuel rail
B&M ADJ. fuel pressure reg.
GM 3 bar map sensor
rc 440cc injectors
hondata 3b

i've spoken to some of the highly reconized racer's and tunner's and their not recommending me to go over 10-12 lbs of boost? they said that shotpeened is good but when they tend to have pressure on them they dont bend like most other aftermarket rods do, they just break off.



Modified by slixxracing at 8:18 PM 4/5/2004

 

No one knows? or has experience with them?

 

no one eduacated or experienced enough, to know huh?

 

nope, if u dont know then we dont know

 

They should be good to 20psi...Run ARP Rod Bolts and keep RPM under 9000rpm and they will last a long time...Theres a few heads running stock LS bottoms and pushing 20psi while making about 400whp...

 

Haha...20 psi huh? What turbo?

Good luck man, shotpeening is really only helpful for rods that are already strong, like SB Ford or Chevy.

Eagle rods are cheap, just pick up a set of those.

 

Hey funny boy, Its been done with less than what this dude has going on with his GSR...

Dude, Sherbaz down here is running a Stock LS in a Civic and a Drag Kit for the LS, hitting 20psi and mid to high 11's in his full weight ciivc...Its for sale right now if your'e interested...Check the Vehicles for Sale forum...

 

Just a few comments about shotpeening: It flattens the grain structure of the metal near the surface. This does two things. Since the grain structure is now parallel to the surface instead of perpendicular or random, it is less likely to start and propagate a crack. It also leaves a residual compressive stress in the surface so that when the rod is in tension or bending (also tension on the outer side of the beam), the surface (which is where cracks start and grow from) is under less tensile stress than the inner metal. This raises the tensile or bending load that you can apply before the rod fails. NOTE: shotpeening does ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to make the rod stronger in COMPRESSION! If you have skinny d-series rods that are going to fail by buckling under a compressive load, shotpeening won't help you at all! Period! It helps tensile strength ONLY! Good luck with that.

 

Couldn't have said it better myself. I've had many sets of V8 rods done over the years after stress releiving and polishing, which reduce the likelyhood of stress cracks but don't make a stronger rod.

Funny boy ... come back when you know what you're talking about! There's nothing wrong with being wrong until you tell somebody who's right that they are wrong.

You took an example from somebody that according to you has made an unspecified number of passes on a set of shotpeened rods and told this guy that HIS rods, in HIS engine will be good to 20psi or so. I don't doubt that just about everything I say can't be done has been done at least once, that doesn't mean it's normal, smart, a good thing to do, or the right way to do it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tjbizzo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just a few comments about shotpeening: It flattens the grain structure of the metal near the surface. This does two things. Since the grain structure is now parallel to the surface instead of perpendicular or random, it is less likely to start and propagate a crack. It also leaves a residual compressive stress in the surface so that when the rod is in tension or bending (also tension on the outer side of the beam), the surface (which is where cracks start and grow from) is under less tensile stress than the inner metal. This raises the tensile or bending load that you can apply before the rod fails. NOTE: shotpeening does ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to make the rod stronger in COMPRESSION</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slixxracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
gsr block sleeved with ductile iron sleeves copper o'rings 81.5mm
CP 9:5-1 compression pistons
OEM polished/balanced crankshaft
gsr shotpeened rods
stock gsr head w/ all type r valvetrain w/ stock gsr cams

t3/60-1 turbonetics turbo
AEM fuel rail
B&M ADJ. fuel pressure reg.
GM 3 bar map sensor
rc 440cc injectors
hondata 3b

</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow you did all this and didn't upgrade the rods?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmclvlc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
wow you did all this and didn't upgrade the rods?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The motor wasnt actually mine to begin with. At the time this motor was being built I was running on a h22 turbo set up in my EG. I stumped onto this motor cause the original owner wasnt into the racing scene anymore and just wanted to sell pretty much his whole set up to get a SUV. So with month's of dealing with him we finally came to an aggreement and I bought this motor off of him for dirt cheap. He was like a good friend of mine which i've known for years. If it was mine to begin with i would of gotton at least some eagle's in there thats for sure. Thats just why i was asking how much boost can it handle before I do more stuff's to it.

So what you guys are recommending is that I shouldnt go over 10-12lbs of boost? Can I use these rods to create at least 300-350whp or is that a no no? Again thanks for all the inputs guys...appreciate it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tjbizzo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just a few comments about shotpeening: It flattens the grain structure of the metal near the surface. This does two things. Since the grain structure is now parallel to the surface instead of perpendicular or random, it is less likely to start and propagate a crack. It also leaves a residual compressive stress in the surface so that when the rod is in tension or bending (also tension on the outer side of the beam), the surface (which is where cracks start and grow from) is under less tensile stress than the inner metal. This raises the tensile or bending load that you can apply before the rod fails. NOTE: shotpeening does ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to make the rod stronger in COMPRESSION! If you have skinny d-series rods that are going to fail by buckling under a compressive load, shotpeening won't help you at all! Period! It helps tensile strength ONLY! Good luck with that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the info... well said..

 

hit the nail on the head. for all motor cars shotpeening is awesome, but were talkin boost.