Let's see, I will try to explain this as best I can since only some things are final. I was driving it kinda hard on monday being my last day of spring break. I was kinda near the house and decided to give it a little go..when I shifted at about 7ish i heard a slight 'knock'. I pulled over to the side and then it got faster and more often. I let it sit for a bit to try and figure what was up,(engine light came on too) then it just shut off. I tried starting it and it struggled so I didn't fully try anymore. I had it towed to the shop I go to (good guys).

The next day they try starting it and nothing not even manually. They opened up the valve cover and everything looked ok. The next day they opened the oil pan and immediatly discovered that the oil pressure valve gave out (aluminum) and i giess everything overheated. The results one of the bearings melted to the crankshaft. They also found one of the pistons seized. They have not fully removed the engine from the car but will soon. Now do you guys thing that there is more harm? Like to the uppers?

Now I know this is bad, but what would be the most "economical" way to get things straight? I am all about caring for my R but from the quote give to me $5000-$6000 I can in no way afford this. They said that it might require all new bottom end parts (eagle engine bottom kit?)+Machining WHAT IS THIS EXACTLY AND WHY DOES IT COST $2400??? water pump+timing belt+engine gasket kit+Labor.
What is the chances that all they have to fix is the oil pressure valve, crankshaft, the bearing, and that messed up piston?

Is all this expected costs?? PLEASE any positive input would be helpful and appreciated.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=814151

you're not alone...pretty much the same thing with mine

5000+??? **** that...a brand new long block will only cost 3000

 

Oh! I forgot to mention it's the JDM-R B18C motor.

 

I would recommend just building a new block since they quoted you that rediculous amount of money.

You could also just sell whatever on the motor is bad and buy another swap for less than 5k.

 

man i hope you dont think they are good guys and they quote you 5k for a bottom end?give me a break you could have a fully built resleeved motor for that much

 

BlueR is a guy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vegas36 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let's see, I will try to explain this as best I can since only some things are final. I was driving it kinda hard on monday being my last day of spring break. I was kinda near the house and decided to give it a little go..when I shifted at about 7ish i heard a slight 'knock'. I pulled over to the side and then it got faster and more often. I let it sit for a bit to try and figure what was up,(engine light came on too) then it just shut off. I tried starting it and it struggled so I didn't fully try anymore. I had it towed to the shop I go to (good guys).

The next day they try starting it and nothing not even manually. They opened up the valve cover and everything looked ok. The next day they opened the oil pan and immediatly discovered that the oil pressure valve gave out (aluminum) and i giess everything overheated. The results one of the bearings melted to the crankshaft. They also found one of the pistons seized. They have not fully removed the engine from the car but will soon. Now do you guys thing that there is more harm? Like to the uppers?

Now I know this is bad, but what would be the most "economical" way to get things straight? I am all about caring for my R but from the quote give to me $5000-$6000 I can in no way afford this. They said that it might require all new bottom end parts (eagle engine bottom kit?)+Machining WHAT IS THIS EXACTLY AND WHY DOES IT COST $2400??? water pump+timing belt+engine gasket kit+Labor.
What is the chances that all they have to fix is the oil pressure valve, crankshaft, the bearing, and that messed up piston?

Is all this expected costs?? PLEASE any positive input would be helpful and appreciated. </TD></TR></TABLE>

your car is stock? just mild bolt-ons? if so.. just buy a used block for 1000-1200 or something and back on the raods... you could also buy a new block for 2000 plus some hundreds.. it might not be cost effective to rebuild in your case unless you're building a stronger block.

 

i would def recommend getting a new bottom end. if one of the piston seized, that means on that cylinder, the walls are torn up and you would need to bore and hone it. and if you bored one cylinder, you do them all. after you get it back from the macine shop and get everything assembled and installed, you would have spent more money than just buying another bottom end, whether that bottom end was new OR used. depending on how much you have to spend, this might be a good time to build a decent bottom end.

 

sorry dude i wish i could have helped more on it, but due to my lack of knowledge on thigns i couldnt' do much for you. The price that they'v quoted you on is highly rediculous, you might as well get a new bottom end. Not to be **** but something is a little fishy here, you just bought the car off ebay like two months ago and didn't even drive it much. Then this happens..and yes to everyone who asked this isn't a regular stock motor.. it has A LOT OF BOLT ONS ON IT, his car was the one on ebay awhile back, CW with toda goodies.. I'm not sure if it has anything to do with tunning since the previous owner didn't, but then again correct me if i'm wrong. I thought the previous owner recently rebuild it.. ? Sorry man.. wanted to see it run. But 5k-6k of replacement parts is insane. You might as well get a used jdm motor for that price. Let me knwo if you need any help.

paul

 

Sorry to hear about the R cuz i have heard soo much about it. i was really lookin forward to seeing it at a future ITR meet-up, but i wish you the best of luck in getting running and on the road again.

 

thanx for you guy's help...i think i will do that..hopefully i will only have to get a short block (i'll definetly talk to LEN ) How many hours should i expect to pay for?

 

Find out how much the labor is because thats probably a good part of the bill. I would just get a helms and get to work. You will save a **** load of cash and learn alot too

 

so if i just get the short (or long block if needed) would i still have to pay to get it "machined"? that's where most of the bill is becaue he would have to send it out and do this.

 

i will get the news tommorrow when they open up the head...what do you guys think the chances of the combustion chamber being messed up too? How many hours of labor does it take to pull the engine and put it back in (after installing the short block)???