When I bought the intake, I unfortunately didn't know that it didn't fit the GSR IM.
In any case, if any of you have tried/are using the J's racing intake with the GSR IM, how did you make it fit?

 

I don't have one, so try an elbow of some sort.

 

i am not sure if j's racing intake is made for ITR only but i had seem a member on the board using civic sausage intake and modify the stock inktake tube and make it out of a little adapater so it can fits on the GSR.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blanktape &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am not sure if j's racing intake is made for ITR only but i had seem a member on the board using civic sausage intake and modify the stock inktake tube and make it out of a little adapater so it can fits on the GSR.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

i also so i write up of the same. I'm thinking about getitn one also.. the gains are suppose to be good.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vtecfool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i also so i write up of the same. I'm thinking about getitn one also.. the gains are suppose to be good. </TD></TR></TABLE>

IMO it's just a CF bling factor. you get major throttle response. that's all i can think of.

if you wanna fit it on your GSR, get an S2 mani. otherwise there's really no way, i already tried it w/ Bob-DC2's.

 

One of my buddys has the same intake, although knockoff in his EG with the C1 and it worked fine but then again i guess ABS is in the way.

 

Any idea of where I can find this write-up?
Its not just the ABS; there's a ton of things in the way And its all cuz the gsr tb is so low. I'm pretty sure that its made to fit the ITR/b16a IM. I would get the S2 IM but at this point it would only hurt my perforrmance, and the ghetto rig I have done now is holding up.
I had been using a 4" section of the stock intake arm for a bit, but its OD is like 4", while the silicone reducer that came with the J's intake had an ID of like 2.5" designed to mate up to the TB. So I had to bend and squish the intake arm to make it fit in the reducer, and I think the resulting kinks messed up the airflow going into my IM.
Here is a shot of what the setup first looked like, with the section of stock intake arm squished into the silicone reducer:

Yeah, its a major hackjob, I had to make do with what I had at the time of the install.
Here it is installed:

So what *I* did was go out to Home Depot and purchased a 4" section of rubber plumbing pipe, with a 2" ID (same as the stocker), replaced the stock intake section with that.
Here's how it looks all hooked up:

First off, its a perfect fit over the TB. But, there are 2 problems:
1. Its straight, no bends. I need like a 20 degree bend for it to be perfect; alas, no bend. So the reducer is only partially connected. I don't see any problems with it popping off though, I've been running it like this for a few days, and pushed it pretty hard, its stayed put. I also tightened the clamp at an angle, kinda like a band-aid. Problem solved
2. The replacement section has like a 2mm lip on it, and just like the stock piecing I was using, its like an obstacle to airflow. Since the reducer slips over the piping, the air flows fine until it hits the point where they join, and there's this 2mm lip all around that breaks up the flow/causes turbulence. So what I did was like what they do to the valveseats with a multi-angle valvejob, gradually smoothing it the flow from the lip into the pipe. Problem solved again
Another shot of the finished product:

All in all, I'm happy with it. Can't feel it pull any harder, and no noticeable improvement in throttle response, but I'm not expecting anything drastic without replacing the IM itself. Total cost of the project was $4.96 for the replacement pipe lol.

 

Buy a skunk2 intake manifold. It'll fit for sure

 

just to clear this up...the j's intake DOES fit the gsr im, you just have to move your coolant reservoir, and some wires on the side of the shock tower housing, i just put it in, it doesnt sit quite as nicely as it would if i had a skunk2 im, but it works fine...so if anyone says it cant be done, they are wrong

 

sell it to me for cheap, no if you fiddle with it enough it will fit

 

The pictures don't work. Maybe its my comptuer.
Also wounld't changing how the air goes into the TB affect performance? I thoguth the intake was made into the "slugshape" so air would go faster into the TB which increases. By adding more piping and bends, wounldnt it change the flow?

The ITR IM can be put on a gsr head if you drill new holes into the IM. other then that you need to replace the whole head.

 

why do people continually think that an itr manifold could be placed on a c1 head?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegasaurus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why do people continually think that an itr manifold could be placed on a c1 head?</TD></TR></TABLE>

good question...

in any event, when i said i got it to work, i never said i used any extra bends or attachments to the tb, i put it straight on there, so like i said, it does work

 

Do you have any pictures of the intake in your engine bay? i would like to see so i can fit mine.

 

i've seen the intake on a euro-r h22 in a 2000 hatchback

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegasaurus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why do people continually think that an itr manifold could be placed on a c1 head?</TD></TR></TABLE>

it's been done many times before the skunk2 intake manifold came out.

all it requires is drilling a new hole (or holes?) to make it fit.

no, i have not done this, but GZR4DR has and i know him personally.

 

Either get a Skunk2 mani

OR

Get some rubber tubing (the kind that joins the intake to the manifold) and buy about 1 foot of it.

 

I took mine off- got tired of people asking wtf is that, and pointing. I didn't really notice a diffence between that one and my aem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweakmeister &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Either get a Skunk2 mani

OR

Get some rubber tubing (the kind that joins the intake to the manifold) and buy about 1 foot of it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you dont need any rubber tubing, a regular coupler will do it

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neverscared &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I took mine off- got tired of people asking wtf is that, and pointing. I didn't really notice a diffence between that one and my aem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

let me guess it was the fake egay one, bc i def noticed a diff, i will show everyone the numbers when my car is back together and i go to dyno and tune

heres the pic for reference, before i ripped the head off

 

i fitted the J's racing intake on my stock gsr (well near stock)
by undoing the bracket that holds the ac lines (the long skinny hard ones...lol)
the protector bracket bronze thing on the engine mount that blocks the lines from hitting it, and the skrew that holds some wiring on a bracket located between the battery and the intake. a lil pushing and shoving and bam, in the intake went.
felt a lil better over stock untuned. butt dyno can be deceiving though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MajorPayne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you dont need any rubber tubing, a regular coupler will do it

let me guess it was the fake egay one, bc i def noticed a diff, i will show everyone the numbers when my car is back together and i go to dyno and tune

heres the pic for reference, before i ripped the head off
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn, how did you squeeze the intake down that far?
Here is my problem:

The A/C hardlines can't be pushed down any further, so thats the lowest I can push the intake without relocating the lines. The right side connects to this 4" of plumbing piping I used to connect to the TB.


Thats a view from the passenger side strut tower, and you can see that the intake is really pressing against that bundle of wires. I've removed all the brackets I could; the bundle won't go anywhere because the wires are too short. I tried taking off that nut and bracket you see circled, but it doesn't do any good as the wires won't budge. Any ideas?

 

ok as far as the ac goes, i took mine out, that could be one reason the j's fit fairly easily in my car, so you might have to do a little bending of ac lines to get it to fit. As far as the wires go, where that little silver bracket is now, i put a catch can, and moved the wires way down at the bottom of the strut tower, the wires will budge you just have to remove some nuts holding them to the strut tower or little plastic brackets holding them to something, try it out, if you need more help let me know

 

Very cool, thanks man. I've been contemplating taking out the A/C for a while now, as well as P/S. I'm sure I could live without A/C, but not sure about the P/S

I'm gonna give that bracket another shot tomorrow.

 

cool. yeah you get used to the ac being gone, i didnt take out my ps, but yeah just move stuff around, youll get it in there eventually, lmk if you need any more pointers

 

Woot, I pwned the **** outta that bracket! I'm an idiot, the last time I removed the bracket but didn't remove all those bundles from that black frame thing, so it was like trying to move one HUGE bundle of wires around, which wasn't gonna happen. So this time I removed the gray couplers from the black frame thing, and wah-lah! I did like you said and moved the wires way down as far as they could, basically right next to the battery tray.
So, next step is removing the a/c completely, I don't feel comfortable bending the hardlines, I'm afraid they'll snap
Were you able to do the job yourself (other than leaking out the freon, I'm sure you took it to a shop for that part ), and if so how long did it take you?
Here's my problems, as of this afternoon, relating to the removal of the A/C:
1.

So those are the trouble makers, as far as the intake fitting. As you can see, with the relocation of those wires, I have plenty of room by the strut tower, but those a/c hardlines are just in the way. They flex a little, but not enough to make the intake fit.

2.

Because I'm a rebel, I am planning on leaking the freon myself. Can I do it from anywhere along the a/c lines, like this place, for instance? This is right above the condensor, I believe, above the radiator. I unscrewed that green screw, and heard a bit of hiss for like 1 second, but it didn't sound like I was bleeding off the pressure. Do I have to unscrew that giant nut?

3.

The line I have outlined in red is the thinner a/c line from the first pic, I think? And I dunno where the line I outlined in blue comes from. In any case, they both connect to that metal cylinder that I outlined in blue as well. What is it, because it looks like a bitch and a half to take out

4.

So after removing the battery, it looks like this is where the lines start/end, in the firewall. Do I simply remove those two nuts to remove the lines from here? If so, do I have to plug it up somehow? I read somewhere that you need a "shroud" so that the air comes out of the vents inside, and doesn't empty out of a big hole resulting from the removal of the a/c. Does that go here?

5.

The compressor... and what I forsee to be a BIG PAIN IN THE ***...

6.

A close up shot. The nut on the right is practically impossible for me to get to. I've tried, with my limited tools, but there just isn't room to maneuver. The one on the right is a little bit easier to get to. I hear there are 4, though. Does this mean I have to get under the car and remove that plastic dirt guard thing?

Any help would be appreciated.