Im doing a b-series swap and i bought the car 90 CB Crx as an auto, I need to definately change that... Anyone know of any resources for converting a crx... I haven't Found any even when using the little search tool in the corner... Or does anyone have pics and tech specs from personal experiences?? Any info will help thanks...


....I know you need to get a pedal config and the shift linkage and the man tranny which i'll get with the swap so just elaborate....

 

Do this -
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=674474

It's not a CRX, but it's the SAME thing.

 

thanks that should help...... bump

 

What did you search for ? I found about 40 topics on it, here you go

I have done many auto to manual swaps, I have a lot of info on them to. Need any help feel free to IM me. Here is basically what needs to be done.

Stuff you will need

Manual trans
Manual flywheel
Manual flywheel bolts
Manual Ecu
Shift linkage
Shifter
Pedals

Side trans mount and rear trans mount from a manual, the pedals will probably be the hardest part. Here is some more wiring to help you out.

Installing the pedals (have fun):



This part sucks. Droping steering column and removing drivers seat makes life easier at this part. I cannot tell you how many nuts hold the assembly to the car, i can say it is all nuts though. One is really tricky to find and get to. You need a swivle, deepwell 12mm and 2 six inch extensions. It is above the air vents and steering column. Have fun getting it out. Remove cotter pin that holds brake pedal to brake booster. There is also a nut and bolt for it. Remove the gas pedal from automatic pedal assembly and move to manual assembly so the cable plugs up, or switch cable. Install the clutch cable through gromet that honda left on firewall in factory location. Rebolt all the nuts to the car that hold the pedal assembly.



Removal of the transmission:



To remove the transmission (you should know how to do this otherwise don't attempt). Please check my work with a chiltons or haynes manual as i will not be held responcible for damages that incure from this install. Remove both axels. Unbolt the bellhousing, remove the mounts (3 of them) and remove transmission, this is a unusually large tranny, it might require the whole engine coming out depended on how patient you are. I had the whole thing out cause i was putting a DOHC ZC in. Unbolt the torque converter from the motor, install flywheel (make sure not to reuse automatic flywheel bolts).



Installing shift linkage



This is a fairly simple task, remove the old auto shifter by removing 2 bolts on top and 2 on bottom. Then drill 2 holes where honda welded over them as picture below. Then simply install as a normal linkage would be. Take a piece of thin metal and glue to a piece of abs plastic and epoxy it on, the metal is to deflect heat and the plastic is to keep the heat form transfering inside.





Installing the transmission:



Torqure manual flywheel bolts down at 76 footpounds of torque. Install clutch with alignment tool, torque bolts down to 25 ft lbs. Before you install it all back there is one extremely important thing about the rear mount. Honda left 2 spots to mount the rear mount with 3 sets of holes, two are threaded, one is not. You need to move the mount location to the one that is threaded and then thread the other and place a bolt in there. Reassemble as specified in honda manual. Put new manual axels in.



Wiring with diagrams:



Drag two wires from under the hood (yellow and green on tranny) for the reverse lights to work when you are in reverse. Please note that the R light on the instrument cluster will not work without some decent knowledge of relay wiring. Connect these to wires to the ones pictured below



I found this one out the hard way, the key will not come out unless the car is in park and um, you dont have a park anymore. To fix this you can make the car think its in park all the time. Please understand, by doing this the P will be on in the instrument cluster all the time. This can be corrected one of 2 ways, disconneting the light or some extensive relay work.



This one is needed to crank the car because it no longer has a neutral or park. It is one of two plugs with only 2 wires. This one is easy to spot because it has two heavy black wires instead of the other with two yellow wires. Just connect them in a simple loop, or with some relay work to the clutch pedal because some decent current goes through them directly to the starter. I just left it like picture and allways crank the car with my foot on the clutch.

 

Matt

 

Yea thats what the link above is....
I must of hit recent because when i searched again in archived there were plenty..
Thanks again i cant pm yet so if the person who offered me the pedal assembly could contact me... soloxkickers@hotmail.com
If you want to take the time... Thanks...