Well I have a turbo d16z6 that is around 200-215whp at 10psi on a garrett t3 .42

All I have are arp rod and head studs and a fresh rebuild.

IF I get a cam, I hear the zex cam 539.. something, can add around 30 more whp on a turbo car.

Since I am already on the limit of my engine would the cam risk it blowing up even though the boost stays at 10psi ?

tuned on uberdata

 

Yeah you would be running the same risk as increasing the boost not that you would get 30 whp on your application.... Be better off getting your car dyno tuned perhaps for a little more boost if you want.

 

u will sooner or later. depends on ur foot

 

its all in the tune.my brother car put down 252 whp on 10 psi.z6stock motor all it has i arp head studs.this was a base line pass due to the fact the wideband was not working at the dyno.we are going for 300 on stock interals.this is with v-fac and btm.this is on a t3 60/64.so i dont see a prolem with you running a cam.

 

i would almost be more concerned with breaking ringlands on your pistons than snapping a rod, either way it can be done with a good tune, wether or not u wanna risk taking your motor to the edge like that is up to you....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would almost be more concerned with breaking ringlands on your pistons than snapping a rod, either way it can be done with a good tune, wether or not u wanna risk taking your motor to the edge like that is up to you....</TD></TR></TABLE>

hehe... d-series rods are toothpicks... imo they're just as susceptable to snapping

 

And the stock ringlands are made out of balsa wood! Those bastards are the weak link!

 

i wouldnt risk it, d series rods are crazy think and i have personally broken one with less power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yusoslo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well I have a turbo d16z6 that is around 200-215whp at 10psi on a garrett t3 .42

All I have are arp rod and head studs and a fresh rebuild.

IF I get a cam, I hear the zex cam 539.. something, can add around 30 more whp on a turbo car.

Since I am already on the limit of my engine would the cam risk it blowing up even though the boost stays at 10psi ?

tuned on uberdata</TD></TR></TABLE>

With that Cam you need valves springs. FYI.

 

I know I would get vavleprings and retainers to go with it.

The rings are JE file fit, that where gapped to turbo applications.

I am a bit confused by the ring lands, is that where the rings seat on the piston itself?

Anyways I should just wait, in the summer I am building another d16 short block top to bottom

 

B to the UMP

 

actually...you DON'T need valvesprings. the springs are light enough and won't bind with the 59300

just get a GOOD set of ti retainers, the zex ones are nice, and you'll be fine with the cam


the rods...well, eagles are pretty cheap

 

If you have a good tune 10 is safe. I ran 8-10 daily with the afc hack and about a 12:1 A/F. This was with an APEX kit intercooled of course.

There was some guy that ran 16 psi on the stock Z6 with head studs for a pretty long time and it held up till he cranked it to 20 and warped the head.

 

20 Gdamn

well eagle rods are reasonable but then I have to get aftermarket pistons and then its a grand at least

I will build another motor in the summer to handle more

 

you can get out for cheap if you get used stuff

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicSoul &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And the stock ringlands are made out of balsa wood! Those bastards are the weak link! </TD></TR></TABLE>
heheh the whole bottom end is the weak link . im even thinking im not gonna run more than 7psi when i finally get boosted cause my bottom end is stock and its got 141,xxx miles.

yusoslo- the ringlands are the the part of the piston that the rings sit on, and ive seen some of them break first hand.

 

Stop being gay D series are good a 200 whp easy. 220whp thats reasonably reliable, after that reliabilty is out the door but you can make more power next week I'm going for 250whp bone stock block.... Build your engine if you want more then 250whp. HTH's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbozxi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stop being gay D series are good a 200 whp easy. 220whp thats reasonably reliable, after that reliabilty is out the door but you can make more power next week I'm going for 250whp bone stock block.... Build your engine if you want more then 250whp. HTH's</TD></TR></TABLE>
true...sorta.
1). i know someone who was putting down 230 whp on a stock block d16a1, running 12's last year, and this was after numerous bottles of nitrous. i saw the motor firsthand. the sleeves had a little bit of scoring on them, but the pistons looked pretty god damn good for all they have been though.

2). ive heard/seen on forums countless occasions of people breaking **** on stock block d16's with considerably less than 230whp...

alot depends on the tune, and the condition of the motor prior to boosting. me personally, i would not want to push the stock bottom end, especially if i did not have a spare motor, or funds for one if i broke mine..

 

THe motor is rebuilt with 0 miles. ARP rod and head studs, Je Piston rings (rebuild only cost me ~250 bucks

I have a spare d15b7 with 160k miles

No funds: but In august I will build a new d16 top to bottom for 18-20 psi, I wanna be fast and different, plus I wanna see that boost gauge needle bury from vacuum to full boost hehe (it's the ricer in me)