00situner

Hey guys im running pretty much a stock Z6 with a t3/t4 .60 air turbo, HF manifold,
3inch downpipe and exhaust, i was wondering what kind of cam is everyone running. I would like to stay with stock springs but its not a must!
Just looking for a little more power before i break into the motor.

Bakeoff

I've been running a Crower Stage 2 turbo cam with a ported head, upgraded valve springs, stock valves. It flows great. I never got around to dynoing it before throwing this head on, but I can tell you that the whole package made a HUGE difference at 12psi. I would recommend this cam to anyone with a boosted z6.

beerbongskickass

Just turn the boost up if you want more power... it's free. No point in spending $250 on a cam for a stock motor.

00situner

I am already at 10psi and would like to keep it safe so turning up the boost until i build it is not a option. keep em coming!

vtecspeed1320

Run either a stage 1 or stage 2 n/a cam setup good luck

splitime

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00situner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am already at 10psi and would like to keep it safe so turning up the boost until i build it is not a option. keep em coming!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Think again... the limits of your motor are NOT boost limits... they are POWER limits.... A cam will usually move redline up (higher rpm = higher pressures) and will Increase your power output... you can do the same with more boost... just make sure its tuned for it.

Unless you are built... you are still limited by your stock bottom end.... really working the head will not net you worthwhile gains and keep you from blowing up...

Drag_On

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by splitime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Think again... the limits of your motor are NOT boost limits... they are POWER limits.... A cam will usually move redline up (higher rpm = higher pressures) and will Increase your power output... you can do the same with more boost... just make sure its tuned for it.

Unless you are built... you are still limited by your stock bottom end.... really working the head will not net you worthwhile gains and keep you from blowing up...</TD></TR></TABLE>

This guy gets it..

Listen to him

00situner

I didnt say the cam and head work would help with not blowing it up i was just trying to make more power before i build the bottom end.

Soccerking3000

i have a zex 59300 cam and it worked wonders with boost, and you dont need springs/retainers, although i suggest them if you raise your redline

splitime

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00situner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didnt say the cam and head work would help with not blowing it up i was just trying to make more power before i build the bottom end.</TD></TR></TABLE>

But you can do the same thing by raising the boost like mentioned above... and its a free mod .

beerbongskickass

Dude if you can't understand what I said you shouldn't have a turbo car. It doesn't matter where you get the extra power from, it's going to be the same wether you go with a cam or turn the boost up. Getting a cam that might add 10whp on the top end is going to cost you like $250. You can do that for free by turning the boost up. The only reason you might want it is to raise the redline so you can launch and rev higher at the track, but I am guessing that doesn't apply to you.

Let me guess your scared your going to blow your motor is you turn it past 10psi? PSI means nothing! 10psi on a t3 is not the same as 10psi on a t4... get it? You need to worry about the power, not psi level.

Soccerking3000

well think about this he cant really go pasy 10 psi, because of the stock map sensor he would need to upgrade that to go past 11.4 psi or whatever it is, this is assuming he is using crome, uberdata, hondata lol

splitime

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well think about this he cant really go pasy 10 psi, because of the stock map sensor he would need to upgrade that to go past 11.4 psi or whatever it is, this is assuming he is using crome, uberdata, hondata lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well if he wants to cam the car... he needs to tune it... if hes able to tune it... he can either do check valves or a new map sensor (if he's crome/uber/TE) for like 20bucks....

It still ends up cheaper... and simpler.

beerbongskickass

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well think about this he cant really go pasy 10 psi, because of the stock map sensor he would need to upgrade that to go past 11.4 psi or whatever it is, this is assuming he is using crome, uberdata, hondata lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

Umm no. I have ran up to 15psi quite a few times on the stock map sensor. Uberdata.

Soccerking3000

but the stock map doesnt read that high... its only a 1.75 bar map, wouldnt you lean out because the ecu wouldnt know what to do...

splitime

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but the stock map doesnt read that high... its only a 1.75 bar map, wouldnt you lean out because the ecu wouldnt know what to do...</TD></TR></TABLE>

You enrichen the last column, and it just runs off that really. Its not the "best" way to do it, but it works.

beerbongskickass

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by splitime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You enrichen the last column, and it just runs off that really. Its not the "best" way to do it, but it works.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly. A couple psi won't be a big deal. Just make sure you have a wideband handy.