IS THERE a way to get out this seized lca bolt without cutting out the bushing and replacing it??

i am going to try soaking it for a while, to see if that helps

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sick hatchem &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IS THERE a way to get out this seized lca bolt without cutting out the bushing and replacing it?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Anyone??

 

how badly seized is it? have u tried wd40, **** like that to break it free?

 

Used an impact wrench?

I know I've broken impact sockets b4 trying to get LCA bolts out.

Wd-40 = crap, might as well used AstroGlide
PB Blaster = The Shizznit. Try that and torching.

Otherwise its time to cut that badboy.

 

Impact wrenches can usually do what a socket wrench or breaker bar cannot.

 

The impact wrench usually breaks them much easier than a break bar from past experieces. Anyhow, i put the car back together and have been driving it as is for like 2 weeks. I think i am gonna get some rear ES bushings and call it a day.

 

Do yourself a huge favor and order some Energy susp LCA bushings. They are simple to press in and they last forever. Ive tried to drill out the LCA bolt but it never works very well and it takes forever!!! Here is what I do with the LCA bolt situation. Since 9 out of 10 are frozen I preorder new ES bushings. I cut the lower shock fork off and heat the LCA bushings till its basically melted rubber. Then with a BFH, hammer out the rubber part. Once that is out you will have the metal ring left inside the hole on the LCA. Use a sawzall to cut a small notch in that metal ring. Use a punch and knock out the ring and you are done. Ive done lots of susp work and this has worked for me countless times. HTH

 

this is what i used.


10 low profile removers, fits sizes from 3/8 to 3/4 in. and 10 to 19mm. Used for removing damaged, stripped, rusted or painted fasteners (screws/nuts/bolts) of all types.

 

no, once they rot thats the end of it, you have to bust out the hacksaw and cut both ends of bolt, push out bushing, becasue your bolt is rusted into the sleeve in the bushing, and an impact or breakerbar will just rip the rubber free from the sleeve and its all screwed up. best advice from above, buy the energy kit, only like 125$ and you dont need a press to put it all together.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FourthGenHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Impact wrenches can usually do what a socket wrench or breaker bar cannot.</TD></TR></TABLE>
correction, heat does what breakerbars, socket wrentches and impacts canot

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowpokesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

this is what i used.


10 low profile removers, fits sizes from 3/8 to 3/4 in. and 10 to 19mm. Used for removing damaged, stripped, rusted or painted fasteners (screws/nuts/bolts) of all types. </TD></TR></TABLE>

doesn't say it removes seized bolts,screws,or nuts....

 

same yourself some time and just cut the bolt off; I have seen this problem to many times

 

yeah, i'm gonan do waht cory man said. I didnt think i could afford the ES, but my buddy has the rear set for 25, so i cant beat that

 

proper sized socket, hammer it on than hammer it a bit to try and break it free. If you have the room breaker bar with the longest pipe you got.

-Eric

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R33CIVIC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

doesn't say it removes seized bolts,screws,or nuts....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes it will...( i just did my alternator saved myself $400.00 in labor)
The version I recomend is the 3/8" impact wrench set ( most of us
have a 3/8" wrench set and it works wonders ( that and the 8-10 lb
BFH )

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HamiltonRex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">proper sized socket, hammer it on than hammer it a bit to try and break it free. If you have the room breaker bar with the longest pipe you got.

-Eric</TD></TR></TABLE>

Head is already snapped off the bolts.

 

ahhh u busted it

hmm.. once that happens very hard to remove damage free!

-Eric

 

i just busted mine trying to install the lower tie bars. i had to cut the welded nut off the bracket and use a bolt and nut. huge pain in the ***, every time i need to remove lca bolts, i plan on them breaking (that way it is a treat if they dont).

 

last weekend i busted mine off also so we cut the bottom of the strut off and had to drill the bolt out pain in *** lca bolts suck

 

this is what i did when i busted the head, just cut the other end off and use a nut and another LCA screw.

 

I dont understand what your saying here...?

Once the head broke off, you cut of the thread part on the otherside and used a new lca bolt and nut? HOw did u get the old/broken one out??

 

put a nut on the other side with the threads and then tac weld it and use a socket wrench to turn it of?

 

It only took one seized bolt for me to spray a DAY in advance all the bolts to be removed with pb blaster.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put a nut on the other side with the threads and then tac weld it and use a socket wrench to turn it of?</TD></TR></TABLE>

aah, guess that would work... Prolly end up tearing the bushing before that bitch budges

Anyhow, dont need to worry about it, i got some new ES bushings