Bleeding Air Out Of Coolant
Hey guys, My buddy has a gsr and his car wont idle and its all boggy. We were told to try and bleed the air out of the coolant and this may help. But no one showed us how to do it. Does anyone on this board have any clue how to do it on a b18c1. We also got new plugs for it, a new thermoswitch, and thermostat. We also changed the timing belt already and thought that the timing might have been off, we r gonna check the timing and maybee do it again. We are trying to do everything we can. Can someone just help me out with getting the air out of the coolant lines and ****. Thanks alot.
if you still wanna know how to bleed the coolant, just take off your radiator cap and let the engine idle 'til the fan comes on twice. if there's air, it should bubble out and you should refill the coolant back up to full.
We also need to check the compression, we r gonna pick up a tester tomorrow. Will loss of compressin keep the car from idling right?
We took the injectors out and cleaned them and the little fliters in them and then put them back in, but not in the order they came out so they would get mixed up. that didnt hlp at all. We tried to let the air bubble out but the fans never turned up at all we let the car idle for like 30 min and then never came on. Doe sthe fans coming on have anything to do with the thermoswitch.
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as far as the fans are concerned.. check the thermo switch and the fan plug.
The cooling system os '93 1/2-'95 1/2 JDM GSR's have an air bleed valve on the side of the water outlet for the head. Let the engine warm up and then up the valve while somebody revs the engine at about 1500~2000 rpms. Watchout because hot stuff is gonna shoot out. Or you can just do the open the rad cap and watch the fluid until the bubbles no longer exist.
re-Check the timing, map sensor, Idle control valve to help solve the other problem.
The cooling system os '93 1/2-'95 1/2 JDM GSR's have an air bleed valve on the side of the water outlet for the head. Let the engine warm up and then up the valve while somebody revs the engine at about 1500~2000 rpms. Watchout because hot stuff is gonna shoot out. Or you can just do the open the rad cap and watch the fluid until the bubbles no longer exist.
re-Check the timing, map sensor, Idle control valve to help solve the other problem.
When I put in my Fluidyne I put the heat on as hot as it would go, fan on max, and held it @ 3,000 RPM's with the cap off the radiator. Took about 5 mins or so. I then let it idle for a few mins and it was all good.
Well here is an update. We replaced the thermoswitch and bleed the coolant out and put new spark plugs in. The car still idles like ****, and stalls. When driving normal it still feels kinda shitty. We also did a compression check.
They went from left to right 200,90,120,170. Shouldnt they be around like 200 or so for a stock gsr. Do low ones mean the valves can be bent, or the rings are shot, or the head gasket is leaking. Im gonna check my compression tomorrow to compare. Anyones help is greatly apreicated.
They went from left to right 200,90,120,170. Shouldnt they be around like 200 or so for a stock gsr. Do low ones mean the valves can be bent, or the rings are shot, or the head gasket is leaking. Im gonna check my compression tomorrow to compare. Anyones help is greatly apreicated.
the air will always end up collecting in the head, if there isn't a bleed screw near the thermostat you can always loosen the thermostat just a bit and fill the radiator untill some comes out of the thermostat housing area. then seal it all back up again and top of the radiator. turn on the car let it idle for about 15-20 minutes with the radiator cap off, watch the coolant level and keep and eye on the temp guage when the temp guage drops you go and add coolant till it tops out, that should complete the process put the radiator cap back on and go along your merry way if the temp guage doesn't drop you know you haven't bled enough of the air out.
that probably won't fix your problem as the only things that should happen is you may throw a code for the engine overheating and the temp guage will be high, and if honda has a limp mode it will go into limp mode until the engine has cooled.
that probably won't fix your problem as the only things that should happen is you may throw a code for the engine overheating and the temp guage will be high, and if honda has a limp mode it will go into limp mode until the engine has cooled.
check to make sure the timing belt is all good, but it seems like all the cylinders would be low compression if the cam timing wasn't right..
it may be something that you won't be able to find out until the head is taken off.
it may be something that you won't be able to find out until the head is taken off.
We did the timing over again last night. It is dead on. I think i can change i timing belt in like 20 min, lol. Ive done the timing so many times now.
Are you guys kidding? He's got a compression of 90 psi in one cylinder! Something is internally wrong (rings, valves, cylinder wall). Performa a leak down test to determine where the problem is, or pull the head and inspect things for yourself.
What is a leakdown test? Isnt it the same as a compression test? If we pull the head how can we tell if trhe valves are bent or seen anything about the pistons.
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