Civic Proportioning valve and master cylinder use on Prelude!
i trying to redo the 2 brake lines from the master cylinder to the prop. valve, and i need to run steal braided from the master cylinder because of my ge intake mani...anyway i cant get 12mm 1.0 thread pitch lines (or fittings) , so im wondering if i can run a civic M.C. and a prop valve...(10mm 1.0 t.p.) so i can run these lines. Will my h22 prelude breaks work fine if i do this?
i dunno man thats a tough call, so why won't the stock s lines clear your manifold?
i don't think a civic MC can push as much fluid as a lude one, hence the smaller size all around, it might work, but you might have to put it to the floor to get it to work, or it might work fine.. thats hard to say..
how far have you gotten witht eh swap over to non abs?
i don't think a civic MC can push as much fluid as a lude one, hence the smaller size all around, it might work, but you might have to put it to the floor to get it to work, or it might work fine.. thats hard to say..
how far have you gotten witht eh swap over to non abs?
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I think the prelude master cylinder is bigger. It might not bolt to the booster, and if it does the brakes would probably feel spongy. Give it a shot, just be careful...
Maybe I'm not understanding correctly, but why not cut the old lines so you can scavenge the fittings and get some hard brake line from Advanced and make your own?
the main prob right now is that the lines dont clear my golden eagle mani, even the steel braided ones need a inch or so before they can be bent....i was suggesting the civic mc and prop valve because they have 10mm fittings not one 10 and one 12 like on my lude. The guy i know who runs a earls shop says 12mm brake fitting are almost impossible to find aftermarket... yes the civic mc is considerably smaller.
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Going with a smaller mc bore will increase line pressure, BUT it will also increase pedal throw. This is not the route I would take. I would also not use a braided line in the place of a hard line. It just becomes another part you have to replace.
Like I said, get some hard 3/16" brake line, a flairing kit, and scavenge the old fittings to make your own brake lines. You can also get the fittings by ordering the brake lines from Honda. This is the only way I'd do it and to me its the only right way to do it.
Like I said, get some hard 3/16" brake line, a flairing kit, and scavenge the old fittings to make your own brake lines. You can also get the fittings by ordering the brake lines from Honda. This is the only way I'd do it and to me its the only right way to do it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racerx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Going with a smaller mc bore will increase line pressure, BUT it will also increase pedal throw. This is not the route I would take. I would also not use a braided line in the place of a hard line. It just becomes another part you have to replace.
Like I said, get some hard 3/16" brake line, a flairing kit, and scavenge the old fittings to make your own brake lines. You can also get the fittings by ordering the brake lines from Honda. This is the only way I'd do it and to me its the only right way to do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is all good, but the problem is that i cant bend the lines steep enough off of the mc....i have 1 inch clearence.
Like I said, get some hard 3/16" brake line, a flairing kit, and scavenge the old fittings to make your own brake lines. You can also get the fittings by ordering the brake lines from Honda. This is the only way I'd do it and to me its the only right way to do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is all good, but the problem is that i cant bend the lines steep enough off of the mc....i have 1 inch clearence.
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