well after searching the web and archives i have come up with several options to adjust my camber. they are as follows,

SPC Adj. ball joint <U>front</U> P/N 67165 +1.5* to -1.5*
SPC Adj. ball joint <U>rear</U> P/N 67360 +1.5* to +3.00*



or

SPC anchor bolt P/N 84945 +1.5* ( for the front, but works on front and rear)
SPC anchor bolt P/N 84955 +1.75* to +3.00* (for the rear, but works on front and back)



I also found an ingalls anchor bolt type with rubber bushings (P/N 35730 +1.25* to 3.00*) which works on the front and back. i only need a small degree of adjustment on the front and its more expensive then SPC.

My main concern is clearance, i want to know which will be least likely to cause a clearance problem. From searching it seems that the spc anchor bolt doesn't have any clearance issues but i wanted to be sure. thanks in advance


Modified by Behan at 12:27 PM 3/23/2004


Modified by Behan at 4:47 PM 8/12/2004

 

Are you trying to gain or loose negative camber.. I use the SPC kit in the front, actually turn them around backwards to gain negative camber, and in the rear mounted the correct way to loose negative camber, I like them, its a funky design and it works, it also doesn't bind up anyways like the stockers will, and last longer then the energy suspension bushings.. All you need is the 0-1.5degree kit, front and rear..

 

Modified by Behan at 11:42 AM 3/23/2004

 

Did you get the rodand correct your caster?

At aguess Id say the balljointtype isleastlikely to cause clearence issues but I doubt your going to have clearence issues

 

Hey I got the SPC ball joint kit and I'm going to install it soon. Honda318dx just wondering if the 1.5 to 3.0 is to much for A/X? Because I have skunk 2 race springs at the moment at they lower my car considerably. I also talked to SPC themselves and said the ball joint type is the best for road and A/X use, and it is easier to install. Just wondering I only have a pair should I install these in the front or the back first? And you said you reveresed yours in the front is this safe for the streets sorry for the Q's just tryin to learn more.

 

h22mark. Put them on the rear and reduce the negative camber. The car will handle alot better with negative camber on the front within reason.

 

the clearnce issues i'm worried about with the ball joint type is that "supposedly" it causes the upper control arm to hit the wheel well with normal suspension travel. has anyone experienced this?

also does the anchor bolt style kit have the same problems?

 

do they even make a ball joint style for a 4th gen?

 

Yeah SPC does, have them sitting in my room trying to install them once it warms up. Damn east coast weather suxs .

 

Oh yeah, check the site out http://www.spcperformance.com i think, but the ball joint is more expensive then the anchor bolt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OTT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you get the rodand correct your caster?

At aguess Id say the balljointtype isleastlikely to cause clearence issues but I doubt your going to have clearence issues </TD></TR></TABLE>

i have ordered the radius rod, but i want to get the camber kit. put everything on at once, then go get another alignment.

 

I have had this issue on my old car. I was never able to fix the problem. It would hit the very edge of the inner fender, and that was with the cambe kit set to as little correction as possible. Perhapes the car wasn't low enough to actually require the bigger kit. I had the ingalls kit.
Josh

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jc836(through im converstaion) &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anchor bolts will work on your car-the difference being that you may need to cut and fold the seam on the inner fender out of the way of the control arm. The anchor bolts actually move the arm outward from the stock location which clears. Take a look and you will see what I am talking about. On the otherhand-using the SPC or Ingalls balljoints can present a clearance issue with the tower itself. On my 5th gen the stud makes contact with a point near the shock mounting. This is not terrible-but not as good as I would like it. Actually SPC went to the trouble of doing a redesign to help with the problem. In either case you will have some clearance issues since you are dropped a good bit. My front springs are not stiff enough to take the types of bumps we have in places on our local roads-thus the contact.
You should have no problems with clearance in the rear.
As a note-my CRX uses the anchor bolts and indeed we had to cut and fold the inner weld seam. The car is dropped to 5.25" of road clearance and the control arms actually caught on the panel I am referring to. I don't have a picture to share or I would send it to you. Whichever way you go-be careful as to the amount you lower the car and the range of adjustment in the kits. Hope this helps a little.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i got my answer from jc386 through IM