How do you advance the timing?
Actually, I know how to do it but which direction??
Rotate the distributor toward the intake manifold or exhaust manifold?
I rotated it toward the intake manifold and it doesn't feel any faster. It doesn't feel slower either. ???
Rotate the distributor toward the intake manifold or exhaust manifold?
I rotated it toward the intake manifold and it doesn't feel any faster. It doesn't feel slower either. ???
you have to plug the ecu clip. that little wiring setup were they plug in a code tester to see what code your throwing..
u setup a timing light and point it towards the crank pully. from what it will flash u can decide if its in time or not.
retarding the timing (which is what you did) just makes the fuel spark after. advancing or moving towards u.. means u are making it spark before.
on all motor setups u have ignition advanced so that ignites before but on most turbo rides u retard it so that it ignites after preventing detonation...
u setup a timing light and point it towards the crank pully. from what it will flash u can decide if its in time or not.
retarding the timing (which is what you did) just makes the fuel spark after. advancing or moving towards u.. means u are making it spark before.
on all motor setups u have ignition advanced so that ignites before but on most turbo rides u retard it so that it ignites after preventing detonation...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garlic jr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you have to plug the ecu clip. that little wiring setup were they plug in a code tester to see what code your throwing..
u setup a timing light and point it towards the crank pully. from what it will flash u can decide if its in time or not.
retarding the timing (which is what you did) just makes the fuel spark after. advancing or moving towards u.. means u are making it spark before.
on all motor setups u have ignition advanced so that ignites before but on most turbo rides u retard it so that it ignites after preventing detonation...</TD></TR></TABLE>
obd0 bud... no check engine clip, just get a timing light move the distro to set it where you want it..... 1st line = 14 2nd line = 16 3rd line = 18
simplified!
u setup a timing light and point it towards the crank pully. from what it will flash u can decide if its in time or not.
retarding the timing (which is what you did) just makes the fuel spark after. advancing or moving towards u.. means u are making it spark before.
on all motor setups u have ignition advanced so that ignites before but on most turbo rides u retard it so that it ignites after preventing detonation...</TD></TR></TABLE>
obd0 bud... no check engine clip, just get a timing light move the distro to set it where you want it..... 1st line = 14 2nd line = 16 3rd line = 18
simplified!
go back to working on your wankel motor cuz actually there is a plug bud! its on the right side of the engine bay next to the hood rod and up from the washer fluid bottle with 2 wires. what you do is jump the wires so it put the computer in limp mode then u can alter the timing so the computer wont try to compensate what ur doing automaticly so u can actually achieve ur advance or retard thanks buddy!
that plug is only on certain years and models of crx's and civics. its in a different location if anywhere in others.
my 90 dx didnt have one, my 89 si does.
my 90 dx didnt have one, my 89 si does.
I reversed and rotated the distributor assembly toward the exhaust manifold and it feels a little peppier.
What's with the plug? Can't you just turn off the engine and rotate the distr. assy. approximately where 2 degrees advance is and then your done. Something I'm missing?
What's with the plug? Can't you just turn off the engine and rotate the distr. assy. approximately where 2 degrees advance is and then your done. Something I'm missing?
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88-89 has the plug in the engine bay, 90-91 is on the pass side foot area. (this is how it appears to be, even had a post about it and it seems this way) You jump the connector to let the ecu know your messing with the timing and to not automatically adjust it. You can still rotate the dizzy to change the timing, you just wont be able to verify it via timing light as it will jump around as the ecu adjusts the timing. To do it properly, jump the connector.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blah13 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">88-89 has the plug in the engine bay, 90-91 is on the pass side foot area. (this is how it appears to be, even had a post about it and it seems this way) You jump the connector to let the ecu know your messing with the timing and to not automatically adjust it. You can still rotate the dizzy to change the timing, you just wont be able to verify it via timing light as it will jump around as the ecu adjusts the timing. To do it properly, jump the connector.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bOOsTiNSoHcVtEc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">y do you have to plug the ecu clip?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you mean jump the connector heres why, the ecu constantly adjusts ignition timing for optimal operation. If you dont jump the connector when you adjust the timing the ecu is going to compensate for your changes. You jump the connector so the ecu wont mess with the timing while your trying to time it.
If you mean jump the connector heres why, the ecu constantly adjusts ignition timing for optimal operation. If you dont jump the connector when you adjust the timing the ecu is going to compensate for your changes. You jump the connector so the ecu wont mess with the timing while your trying to time it.
I know theres a pic of it floating around somehwere but I dont have it, but its not hard to find. On the pass side you have the carpeting that covers the ecu panel and such, look just to the right and up, it may be dangling from the underside of the dash, or it can be tucked behind the upper part of the carpeting. Pull it back if you dont see it, and if I recall correctly the connector was blue on my car, 2 wires. Not sure if the color is consistant but its worth a shot.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blah13 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you mean jump the connector heres why, the ecu constantly adjusts ignition timing for optimal operation. If you dont jump the connector when you adjust the timing the ecu is going to compensate for your changes. You jump the connector so the ecu wont mess with the timing while your trying to time it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So since i didnt jump the service connector you think the timing isnt actually what I set it as according to the crank pulley? The ecu wouldnt set it back to stock settings at 16 degrees? Cause really thats all I want to do. How would i correct the timing since the ecu has taken over? Just jump the service connector and use the crank pulley and distributor again?
If you mean jump the connector heres why, the ecu constantly adjusts ignition timing for optimal operation. If you dont jump the connector when you adjust the timing the ecu is going to compensate for your changes. You jump the connector so the ecu wont mess with the timing while your trying to time it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So since i didnt jump the service connector you think the timing isnt actually what I set it as according to the crank pulley? The ecu wouldnt set it back to stock settings at 16 degrees? Cause really thats all I want to do. How would i correct the timing since the ecu has taken over? Just jump the service connector and use the crank pulley and distributor again?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by justinau »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got a 90 dx if i turn my distributer towrrds exhaust manifold itl give me a lil more power??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not necesarily, all motors are different, but a general rule is 2 degrees advance is as much as youd want to do without proper tuning. You may gain 2-3hp but again you may not. I prefer to leave it stock to prevent detonation as you dont gain crap for hp.
boostinsohcvtec : The ecu cant change your base timing, which is what your doing with the timing light. But if you didnt jump the connector your base timing may not be what you tried to set it to (16). And yep, you need to jump the connector and retime your car, at least to be safe I would.
Not necesarily, all motors are different, but a general rule is 2 degrees advance is as much as youd want to do without proper tuning. You may gain 2-3hp but again you may not. I prefer to leave it stock to prevent detonation as you dont gain crap for hp.
boostinsohcvtec : The ecu cant change your base timing, which is what your doing with the timing light. But if you didnt jump the connector your base timing may not be what you tried to set it to (16). And yep, you need to jump the connector and retime your car, at least to be safe I would.
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