Well since I lost all compression in a cylinder on my d16a6 motor. I decided to buy a sohc zc because its cheap and easy. Well my grandfather oferred to do it his mechanics shop and have them install it as a gift to me. SO they tell me its done and that I can come and look at it. Its a sohc zc non vtec motor

I start it up, starts fine but when I get outside of the car I notice a few things.

1.Cars making a fairly loud ticking noise, the guys says the valves need adjusting but he doesnt have the tools so can anyone let me know if thats common and thats what causing the ticking?

2.Car idles from 800-1500, it literally goes up and down, taking about 1 second to go up and another second to go down and it keeps doing it. I let the car run for 5 min and it didnt stop so I shut the car off.
Ive heard of cars idling high but never going up and down like this.


I hope these are easy problems so I can get my car back and fix them no problem when the windshileds gete swapped tomorrow.

Thanks

 

for the valve adj if he doesn't have the specs or the feeler gauge then I can see him not doing it but its a mechanics shop so I don't see how he can't have a feeler gauge.

 

The valves may need adjusting, usually a ticking type sound indicates such. Shouldn't be too hard to do, all you need is a feeler gauge, 10mm socket and a flat head screw driver (or the Snap-On valve adjustment tool which makes it much easier). Most likely the valve adjustment is out of spec...who knows when/if they were ever checked.

As for the idle, check the IACV, either it's dirty or doesn't work. I would remove it, spray it out with brake cleaner and see if that helps. Also, make sure that all the air has been bled from the cooling system.

 

I just think the guy didnt have time or didnt want to do it.

So it really is fairly easy to adjust the valve to spec? Im going to grab my helms manual from school tomorrow because its in my locker but will it give me a good walkthrough on how to do it? I know Ill have the feeler gauge at the schools shop.

The idle just seemed weird, what does IACV stand for?

 

I searched and Im still unsure exactly what it is that Im measuring with the feeler gauge.

The exhaust valve is the bigger valve right?

 

all u need to adjust valves/// 3 tools

flathead screwdriver
10mm wrench
and a feeler gauge


and a 10mm socket to take valve cover off

as for the idle.. means the IACV (EACV) is messed
unplug it and u will see it will stop doing it

or make sure the ecu is not touching GND>.. my car does it if my ecu touches the metal of the car....

lets see what can i help there

 

bump for me just going through 71 threads and still not understanding how to crank the engine and WTF is up with my idle

 

yeah the valve adjustment is easy it will get rid of your idling problem and ticking problem..

but please remember the ticking wont fully go away honda/acura even when their in spec tick like crazy

if the iacv was clogged it wouldent take a second to idle wrong like that it would be straight wom wom wom wom as if u had lopey cams... out of spec valves will make it idle like what your talking about.

you need to check valve spec every 15k miles. or every mis shift haha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by W O T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump for me just going through 71 threads and still not understanding how to crank the engine and WTF is up with my idle</TD></TR></TABLE>

Try resetting the ecu and let it idle and see if it goes away. Also see if you get any CEL, I wouldnt be suprised if you get a code 11. Auto ecu's on 5 speed make the car idle like that.

 

The Helms manual will show you how to check your valve clearances. It's really not that hard....a bit tedious, but not hard. The IACV is located on the back of the intake manifold. It's held on with 2 bolts and is kinda cylindrical shaped. Basically it uses the temperature of the coolant to determine the idle speed of the engine, so when the engine is cold, it will allow more air in to up the idle speed and get the engine warmed up faster. If it's not working correctly, then it will cause your idle to fluctuate like you indicate your motor is doing. Sometimes all it needs is a little cleaning.

 

whoever put in your engine, did not make sure that the vaccuum lines were on correctly... I had the same problem and went a got a diagram .... Vaccuum lines will screw a lot up... also make sure your O2 sensor is not dirty, and check the connection on your plug..... As far as your valves go, when you look at your car, the exhaust is in the front and intake is in the rear... If my memory serves, the intake should be set at .20 mm and the exhaust should be .25 mm... check that to make sure...

 

Hope I can figure this out tomorrow.

 

I had a problem with idle like that ,the iac usually won't continue to fluctuate. I would reset the ecu, try pulling the back up fuse

 

Wish I had more ***** to just jump in and do it.

I got a free feeler gauge today, but I really dont know how to crank the engine over so can anyone help with that?

And where exactly am I sticking the feeler gauge?

 

use a 17 mm socket an extension and a breaker bar , rotate the bolt on the crankshaft OR a 12mm and rotate the camshaft??? may be better to do the crank,do with all plugs out

 

Can I take the plugs out with a regular 19mm socket or is there a special one? Never done that before and Ive got a set of NGK's to drop in.

Have a pic of what Im cranking?
As soon as I get the car back this is what Im gonna fix first thing.

 

Sparkplugs are 16mm, but you should use a sparkplug socket which has a rubber grommet in it to hold the sparkplug after it is unscrewed and you can pull it out. If not, a piece of vaccum hose will work just the same. I would highly suggest you use a factory manual to assist you in doing your valves. If you don't have one, you can get one here: http://www.helminc.com At the very least use a Chiltons or Haynes manual.