What pin is the water temp sensor on the p28?
Converted my car to obd1. but some reason the car isnt warming up...atleast on the cluster it isnt. So i want to by pass the harness and just run a wire straight to the ecu. But i dont know what pin it is....any ideas?
i used thi link to try and figure it out...but doesnt seem to be labeled anywhere.
Also i dont know if this will help someone. I just put the motor in. Came from my friends car. (d16z6) But i have a coolant leak and it looks like its coming from the water pump area.
That also makes me suspect the motor isnt being properly warmed up and just causing the sensor to not worok becuase its not really "warming" up.
Also was curious about the iacv lines. I think i had them correctly placed on the skunk2 manifold...but would that cause it too?
The temp sensor is located under the dizzy so i dont know if that has anythignt o do with it?
help
i used thi link to try and figure it out...but doesnt seem to be labeled anywhere.
Also i dont know if this will help someone. I just put the motor in. Came from my friends car. (d16z6) But i have a coolant leak and it looks like its coming from the water pump area.
That also makes me suspect the motor isnt being properly warmed up and just causing the sensor to not worok becuase its not really "warming" up.
Also was curious about the iacv lines. I think i had them correctly placed on the skunk2 manifold...but would that cause it too?
The temp sensor is located under the dizzy so i dont know if that has anythignt o do with it?
help
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brent_G »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Converted my car to obd1. but some reason the car isnt warming up...atleast on the cluster it isnt. So i want to by pass the harness and just run a wire straight to the ecu. But i dont know what pin it is....any ideas?
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The temperature gauge has it's own sending unit. It's the 1-pin sensor in the head under the distributor.
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The temperature gauge has it's own sending unit. It's the 1-pin sensor in the head under the distributor.
So are you saying thati should run that one wire from the sensor under the dizzy to my guage cluster?
Also forgot to mention it is throwing a code 6. Water temp sensor.
Also is throwing a code 10. IAT.
Also forgot to mention it is throwing a code 6. Water temp sensor.
Also is throwing a code 10. IAT.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brent_G »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So are you saying thati should run that one wire from the sensor under the dizzy to my guage cluster?
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No, it would probably be better to diagnose the exsisting circuit. Is the sensor plugged in?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brent_G »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also forgot to mention it is throwing a code 6. Water temp sensor.
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That would be the 2-pin sensor right next to the gauge sensor. Is it plugged in?
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No, it would probably be better to diagnose the exsisting circuit. Is the sensor plugged in?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brent_G »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also forgot to mention it is throwing a code 6. Water temp sensor.
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That would be the 2-pin sensor right next to the gauge sensor. Is it plugged in?
Ignore the temp gauge for now. When you let the car idle for a while, does the top radiator hose get warm? Until the thermostat opens only the top hose should get hot.
After the thermostat opens, coolant will run back to the radiator and the lower hose will also get hot. Soon after, the radiator fan should kick on.
So start your car up(all accessories turned off) and let it run for a while. If the thermostat is stuck open, both the upper and lower hoses will heat up at the same time(and this could cause the car to take a very long time to warm up). If thats the case, just replace the thermostat.
If only the top hose is getting warm, wait for the thermostat to open, and then for the fan to kick on.
If all this happens, then the problem is not in your coolant temp switch (since all it really does is tell the fan to kick on).
The problem then, is just in your temp gauge.
So then check the 1 wire connector located next to the coolant temp switch(under the distributor).
After the thermostat opens, coolant will run back to the radiator and the lower hose will also get hot. Soon after, the radiator fan should kick on.
So start your car up(all accessories turned off) and let it run for a while. If the thermostat is stuck open, both the upper and lower hoses will heat up at the same time(and this could cause the car to take a very long time to warm up). If thats the case, just replace the thermostat.
If only the top hose is getting warm, wait for the thermostat to open, and then for the fan to kick on.
If all this happens, then the problem is not in your coolant temp switch (since all it really does is tell the fan to kick on).
The problem then, is just in your temp gauge.
So then check the 1 wire connector located next to the coolant temp switch(under the distributor).
Yeah i did actually check that and it warmed up accordinally. Thanks for the reply. The only reason im nervous about letting it warm up for a long time is the fact that i have that coolant leak and its coming out near the crank pulley. So if the pump goes would they still get hot? i just dont want to over heat my motor and do some damage.
It seems to run weird tho. At first it has a high idle. (Cold start) idles about 2300 rpms.
Then starts to warm up more. settles down to about 1800. Then does a surge about 8 times then drops to 1200 and doenst go further...
Lil odd id have to say
Basically my only concern is that leak by the water pump.
It seems to run weird tho. At first it has a high idle. (Cold start) idles about 2300 rpms.
Then starts to warm up more. settles down to about 1800. Then does a surge about 8 times then drops to 1200 and doenst go further...
Lil odd id have to say
Basically my only concern is that leak by the water pump.
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A bad pump would cause it to over heat.
If the leak is coming from the water pump, you should change it out asap.
and you might as well do the timing belt while your at it.
good luck.
If the leak is coming from the water pump, you should change it out asap.
and you might as well do the timing belt while your at it.
good luck.
Yeah the motor is coming out next time i get a chance to change all that what not.
Any ideas on the codes?
Any ideas on the codes?
brent, your fix is simple
put a new water pump and thermostat in. as long as your radiator isn't plugged, and the radiator fan comes on as normal, you're fine. you can always install and aftermarket water temp gauge. they're far more accurate than OEM too
put a new water pump and thermostat in. as long as your radiator isn't plugged, and the radiator fan comes on as normal, you're fine. you can always install and aftermarket water temp gauge. they're far more accurate than OEM too
Yeah im going to pull the whole motor next time i go home and get some time. I gotta change the pump. timing belt, thermo, tranny, clutch, flywheel etc. It was just gonna be a tranny swap but now its turned into a lil more.
Thanks everyone.
Thanks everyone.
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