It's too dark to do any work and I snapped those pics as the sun was setting.

Will get a better look at it tommorow.

Oh, it has a 3rd gear grind, higher rpms, aka 3rd gear sycnro problem.

 

Question: I have the shift linkage still attached to the tranny. How do I shift the gears?

 

your synchros are worn down.
i would replace both the synchros and the gears that go with the synchros.

you shift by turning the shift rod and either pushing in or pulling out.
you will probably have to hold the change holder in place because the lid is off

 

The brass pieces are the synchros right? what are the other *skinny* pieces? is that part of the gear?

 

Are these notches in the gear normal? Looks like --

 

Magnet

 

the notches are normal. I remember reading that while ago.

 

Good good. I am guessing the brass parts are the syncros and the other darker colored part is the syncro hub.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good good. I am guessing the brass parts are the syncros and the other darker colored part is the syncro hub. </TD></TR></TABLE>

that is correct pal

 

get more pics of that gear. Is it suppose to be like that?

maybe it's just the angle and lighting but get more pics

 

The notches in the gear are supposed to be there, they help lift oil. The synchro is not horrible, but should be replaced. The metal on the magnet is normal, and fairly low. Measure the clearance on the shiftfork in the collarshaft for the 3-4 fork. This is usually what will make for a bad shifting tranny after the synchro has started to wear. When you disassemble it if it's real bad you will see flat spots worn on the fork, it will have gone through the coating and look like ground metal, but still smooth. Also while you are at it I would pick up a new interlock peice, it's cheap (under or around $20) and is the key to tight shifting of the whole tranny. You can check the stock one for wear by measuring before removal, or just look at it after removal and see if it is not round anymore. If it has fairly large flat spots it will be out of spec (which is small IIRC .09mm). The shift fork for 3-4 is another item that is fairly inexpensive to replace and most certainly should be done with a new collarshaft set, but I would still measure for by itself if the collarshaft is within it's service limit.

 

Just saw that was a JDM tranny, I've previously had problems matching parts for a JDM 00 ITR tranny, so measure before install.

 

your pictures blow, get closer, and brighter

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your pictures blow, get closer, and brighter</TD></TR></TABLE>
Tommorow morning calls for new pics!

 

Here are some more pics of my progress:

 

the synchros themselves dont have longer teeth, 6 of the splines in the synchro hub are longer.

the 5th gear synchro goes on top of the mainshaft.
Make sure you assemble everything in the correct orientation.

 

That made sense. I just slid it back onto the mainshaft. Thanks Steve. I had it all mixed up.

 

I'm stuck! I can't remove the 3rd gear hub/sleeve from the mainshaft! What do I do? Here are some pics:






Pictures hosted by http://www.skafia.com/phreeboard

 

if i remember correctly i think that is pressed in

 

How do I take it off then?

 

gear puller

 

I'll try that right now. Thanks

 

Gear puller is so easy and great to use

Tools really make the difference. Taking some pics of the old and new syncro. Old one is fuxored up

 

good ****
you'll be an expert when your done

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Gear puller is so easy and great to use

Tools really make the difference. Taking some pics of the old and new syncro. Old one is fuxored up </TD></TR></TABLE>

what kind of gear puller did you use and where did you get it?