over the past few days i've been installing the quaife lsd into my rsx. finally got it all up and running today along with the programmable unit from hondata. upon first drive i noticed that at parial/full throttle my car is shaking/vibrating heavily. when i back off the throttle it stops. i can coast at 40 mph and its like normal, but even the slightest bit of throttle will make my car shake and shudder, even more so upon WOT. i'm taking a trip down to florida in a week and a half and i need to get this fixed ASAP. i made sure to tighten subframe bolts, caliper bolts, my rotors arent warped that i noticed when i had them off, both axles are in as far as i could get them. both hub nuts were torqued to spec. i just cant figure it out... maybe its the lsd?? would an lsd additive work? i'm using redline MTF.

i'm also getting a clunking sound upon putting pressure in 1st and 2nd gear just before engagement. any suggestions on this?? very important, so please help if you can. thanks

 

did you check bearing clearances?
the lsd bearing clearances could be out of spec.

 

yea i checked them. why would clearances matter though?

 

You sure the axles are really all the way in? Get under there and check.

 

aight. just jacked her up and looked. axles are in as far as they'll go.

edit: i'm talking with a pretty knowledgeable friend of mine, he thinks it might be detonation or something to do with the hondata program i uploaded to my ecu. i chose the program suitable for my application (k20a2 with cold air intake) i didnt change any other settings. the tunes have been dyno'd so i cant see why it would be giving me that problem. he thinks its this because i'm only getting vibrations under throttle, not while coasting. any otehr suggestions?


Modified by corso28 at 4:27 AM 3/18/2004

 

mmm. well first you need to narrow down from where and what kind of vibration it is...big difference. drivetrain or engine?

 

its definitely from the front of the car. it feels like the drivetrain. i'm speaking with xcell, a member from new jersey (i believe) who has a stage II cybernation kit on his rsx, he works at a shop, and has lots of experience with cars. he told me it sounds exactly like an axle problem because it's done the same thing to him before what mine is diong to me. so... tomorrow i'll throw her on jackstands and put it in gear and give it some throttle. we'll see what happens.

it definitely doesnt feel like any kind of suspension problem. doesnt feel like the engine is causing it. i checked my motor mounts and they're as solid as a rock

 

so it is either axles or lsd.

 

another factor that might play a role is the fact that i have base rsx axles. they didnt give me any problems w/ the stock open differential though. i didnt drive hard with the axles at all or abuse them before or after the quaife install. with the hondata program that i loaded i am putting down more power to the ground, but i ddint expect the power to cause an axle to go so soon. i'll update tomorrow afternoon after i get the car off the stands. thanks a lot for the help and suggestions, guys.

 

if the axles weren't all the way in, at wot chances are they would slip and turn your speedo into an rpm gadge(this has happened to me ) , second have you ever heard a deisel before. if your car sounds like that at any rpm that is detonation. the thing about the dyno is your tuning for power and those hondata chips make you run lean for power, hence (detonation prone) think of running rich as the safe zone.
If you have checked the axles good if you think its detonation check your spark plugs for fouling. (broken or possibly metal shavings on the plugs) and not just one check them all. if its not that. I'd be calling quaife I'm not to familiar with there honda applications. call a quaife representative. they can help
sorry if so in depth dont know how much you know. good luck with florida

 

well, just went to honda and took the service manager for a ride. he knew immediately what was wrong. he asked if the inboard joint/boot had been pulled apart by any chance. i told him ya they came out a couple times. he said the bearing/bearings (cant remmber which) in there will only spin if they go in a certain way, so the joint itself was locking up. and when torque was being applied to the wheel, the inner joint doesnt pivot like its supposed to and it locks up. so... hopefully it wont cost too much to fix. they are working on it now. thanks for all the help