$1k for starting an N/A setup
I've got around 1k, maybe a couple hundred more to start working on my NA setup. So far I only have an AEM CAI and 5Zigen Fireball exhaust.
I'm thinking of saving and just getting the TODA N2 kit, but was wondering if there are any other mods I should do before getting the engine kit.
I'm thinking of saving and just getting the TODA N2 kit, but was wondering if there are any other mods I should do before getting the engine kit.
i think ur on the right track, aside from that....throttle body (spoon), intake manifold gasket (hondata), Exhaust manifold (take ya pic)....
Maybe even the Fujitsubo PG exhaust. or the Apexi world sport (see sig)
Maybe even the Fujitsubo PG exhaust. or the Apexi world sport (see sig)
If you are getting the TODA N2 engine kit, be sure to get some sort of race header. Also, get the PRC intake manifold so your engine isn't choking at the higher rpms. I wouldn't spend the money for a Spoon throttle body, unless I wanted to tell people I had a Spoon throttle body. Instead I would get this.. http://www.kingmotorsports.com...e=RSX
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k20whitevic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't spend the money for a Spoon throttle body, unless I wanted to tell people I had a Spoon throttle body. Instead I would get this.. http://www.kingmotorsports.com...e=RSX</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only reason I would suggest Spoon over the KMS overbore is the fact that you get to keep your OEM TB. For some, including myself, thats important.
You might want to check into upgrading the final drive and an LSD. They will be some of the most significant mods you will do.
The only reason I would suggest Spoon over the KMS overbore is the fact that you get to keep your OEM TB. For some, including myself, thats important.
You might want to check into upgrading the final drive and an LSD. They will be some of the most significant mods you will do.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC5 03 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If he is planning on the TODA n2 setup, wouldnt suggesting Honda #4 be wasting his money? </TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what i thought cuz what he wants is going to need some real dyno tuning/time.
thats what i thought cuz what he wants is going to need some real dyno tuning/time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NeVeR bLoWn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thats what i thought cuz what he wants is going to need some real dyno tuning/time.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If I'm not mistaken, the toda n2 kit has its own reflash, that's what I was getting at. But on the other hand, you make a good point, the k-pro might be more suitable down the road, if the n2 kit isnt ultimately the route taken.
thats what i thought cuz what he wants is going to need some real dyno tuning/time.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If I'm not mistaken, the toda n2 kit has its own reflash, that's what I was getting at. But on the other hand, you make a good point, the k-pro might be more suitable down the road, if the n2 kit isnt ultimately the route taken.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC5 03 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If I'm not mistaken, the toda n2 kit has its own reflash, that's what I was getting at. But on the other hand, you make a good point, the k-pro might be more suitable down the road, if the n2 kit isnt ultimately the route taken.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you arne't mistaken, the N2 kit comes with a reflash
If I'm not mistaken, the toda n2 kit has its own reflash, that's what I was getting at. But on the other hand, you make a good point, the k-pro might be more suitable down the road, if the n2 kit isnt ultimately the route taken.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you arne't mistaken, the N2 kit comes with a reflash
yep, it has its own flash. Some say if I need an ecu flash before I get my kit then the k-pro is the way to go.
Or get the #4 now and it's still only another $500 to upgrade to either the N2 or K-Pro (not sure on the N2 flash... didn't know they would do a deal)...
Thanks for all the input. How much would I lose if I were to use the ITR intake over say the Jackson Race Header?
Or get the #4 now and it's still only another $500 to upgrade to either the N2 or K-Pro (not sure on the N2 flash... didn't know they would do a deal)...
Thanks for all the input. How much would I lose if I were to use the ITR intake over say the Jackson Race Header?
Keeping the OEM throttle body for future use? Not to be mean, but are you looking at a resale value of the Spoon when you decide you want to sell your car? Just seems like you could spend that 75 to 125 dollars on something else.
Its been my experience that having your stock parts is a good thing. If you decide you want to trade in your car, you'll always get more money for it stock (trust me, Im a car dealer). Ive been through it before, and personally I dont think its worth it not to have something to fall back on.
custom mandrel bent 2.25-2.5 full cat-back, with some off brand muffler the style the you like $250
C.A.I. $250
hi-flow cat $150 with welding and install
use stainless steel header $300
$50 for off brand front upper tower bar
this is one way to spend $1000 going n/a...
you have a type-s right? so you have a base, i would just spend the money on something else....
C.A.I. $250
hi-flow cat $150 with welding and install
use stainless steel header $300
$50 for off brand front upper tower bar
this is one way to spend $1000 going n/a...
you have a type-s right? so you have a base, i would just spend the money on something else....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driftntouge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The only reason I would suggest Spoon over the KMS overbore is the fact that you get to keep your OEM TB. For some, including myself, thats important.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think it's because you're a Mugen/Spoon *****! lol
The only reason I would suggest Spoon over the KMS overbore is the fact that you get to keep your OEM TB. For some, including myself, thats important.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think it's because you're a Mugen/Spoon *****! lol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driftntouge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its been my experience that having your stock parts is a good thing. If you decide you want to trade in your car, you'll always get more money for it stock (trust me, Im a car dealer). Ive been through it before, and personally I dont think its worth it not to have something to fall back on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
can you get me a 2003 lighter blue rsx-s with less then 15k miles for 18k?
can you get me a 2003 lighter blue rsx-s with less then 15k miles for 18k?
I totally understand what you're saying, and what you're getting at. Only thing I sort of disagree with is that a dealership is going to examine the OEM TB to see if it has been bored out, especially if you had the stock airbox on at the time of trade/sale. Everything else though ie...intake, header, exhaust, suspension pieces...totally agree with about keeping the OEM parts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driftntouge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You might want to check into upgrading the final drive and an LSD. They will be some of the most significant mods you will do.</TD></TR></TABLE>
crv final drive and quaife LSD
You might want to check into upgrading the final drive and an LSD. They will be some of the most significant mods you will do.</TD></TR></TABLE>
crv final drive and quaife LSD
I agree, but whats the point of leaving a TB on the car?? Its very easy to take off, so I dont see why you wouldnt take it off, sell it for 300, and put your OEM one back on...but whatever, I really dont care. Maybe I am just a *****
.
Sorry to hijack the thread.
.Sorry to hijack the thread.
Thanks for all the replies so far, yes is it a Type-S, it has a I/H already and I'm getting quite a bit from both already.
I think I've decided to go ahead and save the extra month to get the TODA kit, put that on taking the small lose for not having the racing header just yet (also I have an inspection coming up) then popping one on afterward.
Thanks and keep the comments and thoghts coming! Since I'll still be saving, I may change my mind and go for a header.
Which is better between the DC, Comptech, and Jackson race headers? Why?
I think I've decided to go ahead and save the extra month to get the TODA kit, put that on taking the small lose for not having the racing header just yet (also I have an inspection coming up) then popping one on afterward.
Thanks and keep the comments and thoghts coming! Since I'll still be saving, I may change my mind and go for a header.
Which is better between the DC, Comptech, and Jackson race headers? Why?
why don't u instead just go for the Toda Race header? couple of guys here just installed them and it is seriously mean.
on the N2 topic, also suggest u look into the Kpro instead of getting the N2 flash. N2 while nice, is gonna be just another "one program fits all" thing. Kpro would allow u to custom tune it to your specific setup.
on the N2 topic, also suggest u look into the Kpro instead of getting the N2 flash. N2 while nice, is gonna be just another "one program fits all" thing. Kpro would allow u to custom tune it to your specific setup.


