? hoses and other parts.

 

http://www.ioportracing.com/bumperduct.htm

 

Go to Sear's hardware. Get 3" dryer duct tubing and zip ties. You're done.

Matt

 

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com

 

good point. spending more money doesn't bring more air in?

 

Keep in mind that there are two variants of dryer-duct tubing. The softer stuff is more like aluminized plastic, the heavier stuff is actual aluminum. That latter is much stronger for mounting, but the former is more flexible. I'd use the heavier material for brake ducting.

 

If the ducting doesn't need to be continuously flexed, then dryer hose is fine (like driver ventilation). If you're routing ducting to the brakes, and it flexes every time you turn the wheel, I'd recommend silicone ducting from Racer Parts Wholesale. I swear by the stuff. Here's a link:
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/duct.htm

It's actually pretty cheap, in 11 foot lengths. Here is how I rigged up brake ducts on my 89 325is. This is one instance when a RWD car is advantageous -- less crap up front to get in the way of brake ducts, plus the calipers are on the rear of the hub. I just strapped a section of 3" exhaust pipe to the strut:
http://www.nogumracing.com/members/mike/bmw/ducts01.jpg http://www.nogumracing.com/members/mike/bmw/ducts02.jpg http://www.nogumracing.com/members/mike/bmw/ducts03.jpg http://www.nogumracing.com/members/mike/bmw/ducts04.jpg

 

Unless you build your cars with bailing wire and duct tape save your dough and purchase some hi temp aircraft silicon hose. Do it right, dryer hose is not deigned for automobile applications. Porterfield sells it 800 537-6842, range in size from 1" to 6", 2" part # S200, 3" part # S300. Pegasus sells it 800 688-6946, 2.5" to 5", 2.5" part # 3621-250, 3" part # 3621-300. I'm sure Truechoice sells it and so will any well stocked aircraft supply.




[Modified by DB1-R81, 12:07 AM 10/20/2001]

 

RV waste remoal hose, flexible and very heavy duty, its at walmart

 

The reason the dryer ducting was suggested was that a certain gentleman I know who runs an ITS used some "brake duct" material and had it catch on fire a few times. He switched to the other type of ducting material and found that at worst, it melted. No brake fires though... Perhaps the stuff Whitney mentioned is different and better.

 

I buy the cheap crap. It's like $3 for the whole tube - which is enough for both ducts. I cut holes in the front bumper cover and run them down under the car, zip tie them to the tow hooks, into the wheel well (you might have to flatten them some to keep them from hitting the wheel, then route them up along the fender lining where they take a 90 degree turn and aim at the inside of the caliper and rotor. Punch a little hole in the fender lining and run another zip tie through there and you are done. I used to run them all the time, now I just attach them when I switch over to race tires, and cut them off when I'm done. At $.10/zip tie, it's $.40/race weekend, after the original investment of $3 - and they work fine. I just did a 45 minute race at Watkins Glen, and the brakes feel great....

Matt

 

sounds good!! i thought i would have time to make some for a FATT this week but i am pressed for time. next season i will for sure. do you think they make a difference?

 

No question - yes.

Matt

 

i am sure it does. with the huge 9.5" rotors we have, i guess any help we can get is a plus!!