IAC code 14 problems...car wont idle
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From: Portland, OR
IAC code 14 problems...car wont idle *UPDATE VIDEOS ADDED*
Hey guys i just cant seem to get my car to idle. Once it warms up to operating temp it just dies. The only way to keep it idling it to keep your foot on the gas. And im getting a code 14 (iac).
Now here is the wierd part, ive replaced the iac with a known working one, same problem same code. Ive tested the wire, i get 12vdc like it says in the manual with the car on, its the correct wire to the ecu, and my wiring harness is uncut. Timing is right on and car runs perfectly just doesnt idle. Ive tested the IAC and i get 8-15ohm across it like your supposted to get.
Im not sure what else to try? Any ideas?
my setup:
obd1 dohc ZC
fully built 9:1 bottom end
crower stage 3/4 turbo cams
running stock intake manifold until i get these idle problems fixed
stock honda p28 ecu (until i get these problems worked out)
iac from a d16z6 (pulled off working car)
p28 wiring harness
Ideas?
liam
Modified by liam821 at 11:37 AM 3/18/2004
Now here is the wierd part, ive replaced the iac with a known working one, same problem same code. Ive tested the wire, i get 12vdc like it says in the manual with the car on, its the correct wire to the ecu, and my wiring harness is uncut. Timing is right on and car runs perfectly just doesnt idle. Ive tested the IAC and i get 8-15ohm across it like your supposted to get.
Im not sure what else to try? Any ideas?
my setup:
obd1 dohc ZC
fully built 9:1 bottom end
crower stage 3/4 turbo cams
running stock intake manifold until i get these idle problems fixed
stock honda p28 ecu (until i get these problems worked out)
iac from a d16z6 (pulled off working car)
p28 wiring harness
Ideas?
liam
Modified by liam821 at 11:37 AM 3/18/2004
Thread Starter
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From: Portland, OR
Re: IAC code 14 problems...car wont idle (Bnjmn)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bnjmn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">adjust the idle screw on the tb?
Also, go through the procedure to reset the IACV as described in the helms.
Ben</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ive tried the idle screw all the way out and in - no different. Ill checkup on resetting the IAC.
thanks,
liam
Also, go through the procedure to reset the IACV as described in the helms.
Ben</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ive tried the idle screw all the way out and in - no different. Ill checkup on resetting the IAC.
thanks,
liam
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Boondocks, Northeast, USA
Have you made any mods to the car that could have made the changes?
After I put ITR intake mani on my b16 it would surge at idle....there were two plugs that got mixed up, turned out to be the yellow and red wired one worked?
After I put ITR intake mani on my b16 it would surge at idle....there were two plugs that got mixed up, turned out to be the yellow and red wired one worked?
OG triple OG
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Norcal
Re: (igo4bmx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">air in the coolant lines!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
?
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From: SOHC LAND, XX
Re: (zensoku207)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zensoku207 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He probably means a vaccuum leak. Might want to double check those too.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you have air in your coolant lines, it can trigger the IACV code and cause problems idling. Especially since u replaced your IACV, some air must have gotten into the line.
you may want to take this time to flush and refill your coolant and make sure to properly warm up the car and bleed the system.
i know tegs have a bleeder valve while 96-00 civics do not, so you have to just pull off the radiator cap and let the car run for about 15 minutes.
also while its running you can also squeeze the various coolant lines to push out bubbles
good luck and let us know if this works
if you have air in your coolant lines, it can trigger the IACV code and cause problems idling. Especially since u replaced your IACV, some air must have gotten into the line.
you may want to take this time to flush and refill your coolant and make sure to properly warm up the car and bleed the system.
i know tegs have a bleeder valve while 96-00 civics do not, so you have to just pull off the radiator cap and let the car run for about 15 minutes.
also while its running you can also squeeze the various coolant lines to push out bubbles
good luck and let us know if this works
Thread Starter
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From: Portland, OR
Re: (igo4bmx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if you have air in your coolant lines, it can trigger the IACV code and cause problems idling. Especially since u replaced your IACV, some air must have gotten into the line.
you may want to take this time to flush and refill your coolant and make sure to properly warm up the car and bleed the system.
i know tegs have a bleeder valve while 96-00 civics do not, so you have to just pull off the radiator cap and let the car run for about 15 minutes.
also while its running you can also squeeze the various coolant lines to push out bubbles
good luck and let us know if this works</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ill give it a try and let you know.
thanks,
liam
if you have air in your coolant lines, it can trigger the IACV code and cause problems idling. Especially since u replaced your IACV, some air must have gotten into the line.
you may want to take this time to flush and refill your coolant and make sure to properly warm up the car and bleed the system.
i know tegs have a bleeder valve while 96-00 civics do not, so you have to just pull off the radiator cap and let the car run for about 15 minutes.
also while its running you can also squeeze the various coolant lines to push out bubbles
good luck and let us know if this works</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ill give it a try and let you know.
thanks,
liam
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From: Hawaii
Thread Starter
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From: Portland, OR
Re: (Vtec92Civic)
I got rid of my ECU code, i had it plugged into the wrong wire. my bad. im stupid
However it still doesnt idle.
I flushed the system, checked all the hoses, no ecu code...and it just doesnt idle.
any other ideas?
liam
However it still doesnt idle.
I flushed the system, checked all the hoses, no ecu code...and it just doesnt idle.any other ideas?
liam
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 748
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From: Mesa, AZ
Re: (SikCivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SikCivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bleed the coolants system?
check the screen on the IACV....its the IACV the right OBD?
what happens while the car is running and u unplug the IACV?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed, after that I would consider taking a closer look at how your timing was lined up when you put the belt on... If it was put off a couple of teeth, it could be so Retarded timing-wise that the only reason it runs while cold is the timing advance supplied by the signal from the IACV...
Check timing marks for correct install since you can't put a light to it.
check the screen on the IACV....its the IACV the right OBD?
what happens while the car is running and u unplug the IACV?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed, after that I would consider taking a closer look at how your timing was lined up when you put the belt on... If it was put off a couple of teeth, it could be so Retarded timing-wise that the only reason it runs while cold is the timing advance supplied by the signal from the IACV...
Check timing marks for correct install since you can't put a light to it.
Thread Starter
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From: Portland, OR
Re: (ARIZONA)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ARIZONA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Agreed, after that I would consider taking a closer look at how your timing was lined up when you put the belt on... If it was put off a couple of teeth, it could be so Retarded timing-wise that the only reason it runs while cold is the timing advance supplied by the signal from the IACV...
Check timing marks for correct install since you can't put a light to it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Ive checked a number of times. The timing is perfect. Ive also checked with a timing gun, which is also perfect.
liam
Agreed, after that I would consider taking a closer look at how your timing was lined up when you put the belt on... If it was put off a couple of teeth, it could be so Retarded timing-wise that the only reason it runs while cold is the timing advance supplied by the signal from the IACV...
Check timing marks for correct install since you can't put a light to it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Ive checked a number of times. The timing is perfect. Ive also checked with a timing gun, which is also perfect.
liam
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From: Portland, OR
Re: (SikCivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SikCivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bleed the coolants system?
check the screen on the IACV....its the IACV the right OBD?
what happens while the car is running and u unplug the IACV?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea its been cleaned too. And bleed the coolant system.
When you unplug the IAC it starts to idle surge at around 1500rpms (which i have to hold the gas of course...if i let go it just dies). Plug it back in and everything smooths out. But again doesnt idle.
liam
check the screen on the IACV....its the IACV the right OBD?
what happens while the car is running and u unplug the IACV?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea its been cleaned too. And bleed the coolant system.
When you unplug the IAC it starts to idle surge at around 1500rpms (which i have to hold the gas of course...if i let go it just dies). Plug it back in and everything smooths out. But again doesnt idle.
liam
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From: Severn, MD
Re: (liam821)
Did you just perform some maintenance/modification that led to this....or everything was mint, then this appeared outta the blue?
And you're saying that withOUT the IACV plugged in, you've got idle surging, but with it plugged in, it can't hold an idle?
Just for kicks, have you verifed ECT operation? On a cold engine, the IAT and ECT will be close in their resistances. On a fully warmed up engine, ECT should be around ~300ohms. Perhaps your ECT has taken a dive such that its constantly indicating a cold engine. You can certainly substitute a 300ohm resistor in place of the ECT to rule it out.
And you're saying that withOUT the IACV plugged in, you've got idle surging, but with it plugged in, it can't hold an idle?
Just for kicks, have you verifed ECT operation? On a cold engine, the IAT and ECT will be close in their resistances. On a fully warmed up engine, ECT should be around ~300ohms. Perhaps your ECT has taken a dive such that its constantly indicating a cold engine. You can certainly substitute a 300ohm resistor in place of the ECT to rule it out.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: THE COUVE, Wa, Us
Re: (SikCivic)
not trying to thread jack but, mine has a messed up idle and dies when it gets warm, also, when im driving all of a sudden the car loses power, like the fuel cuts off for a few seconds then comes back.
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Re: (EE_Chris)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you just perform some maintenance/modification that led to this....or everything was mint, then this appeared outta the blue?
And you're saying that withOUT the IACV plugged in, you've got idle surging, but with it plugged in, it can't hold an idle?
Just for kicks, have you verifed ECT operation? On a cold engine, the IAT and ECT will be close in their resistances. On a fully warmed up engine, ECT should be around ~300ohms. Perhaps your ECT has taken a dive such that its constantly indicating a cold engine. You can certainly substitute a 300ohm resistor in place of the ECT to rule it out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Brand new motor. This is the first time ive started it. I havent even driven the car yet.
Ya when i unplug the IAC, and keep my foot on the gas so it wont stall, it likes to hunt around 1500rpms and surges up and down. As soon as i plug the IAC back in the surging goes away and its smooth again...but still doesnt idle.
I havent checked the IAT sensor - ill check that out.
And you're saying that withOUT the IACV plugged in, you've got idle surging, but with it plugged in, it can't hold an idle?
Just for kicks, have you verifed ECT operation? On a cold engine, the IAT and ECT will be close in their resistances. On a fully warmed up engine, ECT should be around ~300ohms. Perhaps your ECT has taken a dive such that its constantly indicating a cold engine. You can certainly substitute a 300ohm resistor in place of the ECT to rule it out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Brand new motor. This is the first time ive started it. I havent even driven the car yet.
Ya when i unplug the IAC, and keep my foot on the gas so it wont stall, it likes to hunt around 1500rpms and surges up and down. As soon as i plug the IAC back in the surging goes away and its smooth again...but still doesnt idle.
I havent checked the IAT sensor - ill check that out.
Thread Starter
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From: Portland, OR
Re: (SikCivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SikCivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">doesnt sound like a IACV prob i know its throwing the code but somethign else seems outta whack. Is the buterfly closing all the way? clean the tb out maybe</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ive fixed the code, the tb is super clean, and the butterfly is closing fine.
Im starting to think it has something to do with my cams. Ive checked all the timing and timing belt and its right on...but im using stock cam sprokets with my crower cams. So i havent degreed the cams at all (ie no adjustable cam sprokets). Im thinking my cams are soo big the car just doesnt want to idle because they are in a retarded (play on words
) state.
Has anybody heard of this?
liam
Ive fixed the code, the tb is super clean, and the butterfly is closing fine.
Im starting to think it has something to do with my cams. Ive checked all the timing and timing belt and its right on...but im using stock cam sprokets with my crower cams. So i havent degreed the cams at all (ie no adjustable cam sprokets). Im thinking my cams are soo big the car just doesnt want to idle because they are in a retarded (play on words
) state.Has anybody heard of this?
liam
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From: Maranello, Italy, Italy
Re: (liam821)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liam821 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ive fixed the code, the tb is super clean, and the butterfly is closing fine.
Im starting to think it has something to do with my cams. Ive checked all the timing and timing belt and its right on...but im using stock cam sprokets with my crower cams. So i havent degreed the cams at all (ie no adjustable cam sprokets). Im thinking my cams are soo big the car just doesnt want to idle because they are in a retarded (play on words ) state.
Has anybody heard of this?
liam</TD></TR></TABLE>
did it do this immediately after your cam install? if nto then thats not the prob
Ive fixed the code, the tb is super clean, and the butterfly is closing fine.
Im starting to think it has something to do with my cams. Ive checked all the timing and timing belt and its right on...but im using stock cam sprokets with my crower cams. So i havent degreed the cams at all (ie no adjustable cam sprokets). Im thinking my cams are soo big the car just doesnt want to idle because they are in a retarded (play on words ) state.
Has anybody heard of this?
liam</TD></TR></TABLE>
did it do this immediately after your cam install? if nto then thats not the prob
Thread Starter
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From: Portland, OR
Re: (SikCivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SikCivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
did it do this immediately after your cam install? if nto then thats not the prob</TD></TR></TABLE>
Like i said before - this is a brand new motor. The same day i bought the motor i tore it down and drove it up to golden eagle to be sleeved and the cams sent to crower.
I checked the vacuum on the motor at idle. When i first start the car, she idles for a little bit until it warms up...
When i first start it, cold, im at around -7-8psi and the idle is around 1200-1500 (cold idle works). As she warms up the vacuum rises and the idle rpm decreases until she cant hold idle which is at around -3-4psi and maybe 900rpms. Once the engine reachs that point it will just die. Warm the motor anymore by keeping your foot on the gas, and the motor stalls even faster. Let the motor down to around 1000rpms and maybe 1% throttle so it doesnt die and the vacuum is around -3psi.
ideas?
liam
did it do this immediately after your cam install? if nto then thats not the prob</TD></TR></TABLE>
Like i said before - this is a brand new motor. The same day i bought the motor i tore it down and drove it up to golden eagle to be sleeved and the cams sent to crower.
I checked the vacuum on the motor at idle. When i first start the car, she idles for a little bit until it warms up...
When i first start it, cold, im at around -7-8psi and the idle is around 1200-1500 (cold idle works). As she warms up the vacuum rises and the idle rpm decreases until she cant hold idle which is at around -3-4psi and maybe 900rpms. Once the engine reachs that point it will just die. Warm the motor anymore by keeping your foot on the gas, and the motor stalls even faster. Let the motor down to around 1000rpms and maybe 1% throttle so it doesnt die and the vacuum is around -3psi.
ideas?
liam