gsr hatch not starting need quick tech help. . .
ok heres the senario. . . took my valvecover off to paint. . while pullin the plug wires. . one ripped out and the metal connector was stuck to the plug. . pulled it out with needle nose pliers. . .did what i had to do went to put it back on. . shoved the metal connector back in the wire best i could. . . wouldnt go on all the way. . sat about 1.5 inches up. . . started the car. . . still sounded like it was running fine. . revved it and all that sounded the same. . came inside and IM'ed a few locals trying to find stock wires. . . went back out, tried a LS wire in place of the bad gsr . . thats when it started doin what its doin. . it turns over and almost sounds like the wires are crossed. . it just kinda skips around put the gsr wire back and same thing. . SO FAR HAVE tried the following:
got new/used magnecor wires (didnt fix it)
tried another chipped p28 thinkin the ecu was fried ( not it either)
opened up the dist cap to check the rotor. . looked fine didnt get into any more than that. .
***************** UPDATE **************************
ok need to get this thing runnin asap so i can sell it
when i turn the key. . . only sometimes does the fuel pump kick on and check engine light come on/go off. . . sometimes it doesnt. .. and then kicks on like 20 seconds later. . . when it does kick on the car will crank but weakly and not start
if the pump/engine lights doesnt kick on the car will not do anything when i turn the key. . not even make a peep. HELP!!!!!!
Modified by UltRaH22 at 3:32 PM 3/18/2004
got new/used magnecor wires (didnt fix it)
tried another chipped p28 thinkin the ecu was fried ( not it either)
opened up the dist cap to check the rotor. . looked fine didnt get into any more than that. .
***************** UPDATE **************************
ok need to get this thing runnin asap so i can sell it
when i turn the key. . . only sometimes does the fuel pump kick on and check engine light come on/go off. . . sometimes it doesnt. .. and then kicks on like 20 seconds later. . . when it does kick on the car will crank but weakly and not start
if the pump/engine lights doesnt kick on the car will not do anything when i turn the key. . not even make a peep. HELP!!!!!!
Modified by UltRaH22 at 3:32 PM 3/18/2004
Can you buy any NGK Blue wires locally even though it's Sunday?
Even though NGK wires are not O.E, nor do they fire as well as O.E Sumitomo wires, they will be the best aftermarket solution to your problem IMO.
Aftermarket wires (other than NGK) are notoriuos for ripping apart just like your old ones did. If the car was fine before that, then they should be fine now.
Would you like me to take a few pics of my plug wires and how they route to my cap to help you see if you got some backwards?
Even though NGK wires are not O.E, nor do they fire as well as O.E Sumitomo wires, they will be the best aftermarket solution to your problem IMO.
Aftermarket wires (other than NGK) are notoriuos for ripping apart just like your old ones did. If the car was fine before that, then they should be fine now.
Would you like me to take a few pics of my plug wires and how they route to my cap to help you see if you got some backwards?
Here you go:

And the view just as you'd see it if you stand beside the car and look at the cap:

There's your plug wire order.

And the view just as you'd see it if you stand beside the car and look at the cap:

There's your plug wire order.
Also why would you think it's the fuel pump all of the sudden?
Try checking for fuel by cracking the banjo bolt on top of your fuel filter LOOSE, and thenturning the key into the "on" position without actually spinning the engine over. If your fuel system is okay, then fuel should spew out of the banjo bolt, so be careful not to be smoking if you're doing this test.
If for some odd reason you get no fuel, then I'd replace the maain fuel pump RELAY because the pumps themselves hardly ever go bad. To check for the main relay working properly, turn the key into the "on" position and listen for a "click" under your dash near your hood release lever as your check engine light goes out.
Have you checked for spark yet on each cylinder by pulling the plugs out while leaving the plug wires on them and checking for spark against metal as someone turns the car over?
Try checking for fuel by cracking the banjo bolt on top of your fuel filter LOOSE, and thenturning the key into the "on" position without actually spinning the engine over. If your fuel system is okay, then fuel should spew out of the banjo bolt, so be careful not to be smoking if you're doing this test.
If for some odd reason you get no fuel, then I'd replace the maain fuel pump RELAY because the pumps themselves hardly ever go bad. To check for the main relay working properly, turn the key into the "on" position and listen for a "click" under your dash near your hood release lever as your check engine light goes out.
Have you checked for spark yet on each cylinder by pulling the plugs out while leaving the plug wires on them and checking for spark against metal as someone turns the car over?
I'll second the check of the main relay, although it'd be kinda odd for that to just all of a sudden go out considering the circumstances. If you're getting spark and still no start, check your plugs you could have fouled them by cranking forever thisd would cause your car to still not be able to start even though you're getting spark (happened to me before).
thanks guys i didnt get around to checkin that stuff today tomm i will run thru all u just mentioned. . . ill let u know what i find.
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ok guys. . was real busy today aquiring my 1st ek. . but real quick i checked firing order on plugs
listened for the main relay click under dash which Tom said to check def heard it
and hear the fuel pump kick on too
didnt have time to check for spark tho. . . that will be tomm.
listened for the main relay click under dash which Tom said to check def heard it
and hear the fuel pump kick on too
didnt have time to check for spark tho. . . that will be tomm.
I would first replace the fuel pump relay, as I have seen plenty that have an intermittent problem.
I would then (carefully) pull the sparkplug wires out one at a time, insert a good spark plug in the cable, ground the threaded part of the plug to the chassis, and have a friend crank the car a few times. I would be willing to bet your not getting any spark due to a bad coil and/or ignitor unit. Rarely have I seen just one go bad. If one goes, the other goes with it. try swaping them (coil and ignitor) with a known good one.
I would then (carefully) pull the sparkplug wires out one at a time, insert a good spark plug in the cable, ground the threaded part of the plug to the chassis, and have a friend crank the car a few times. I would be willing to bet your not getting any spark due to a bad coil and/or ignitor unit. Rarely have I seen just one go bad. If one goes, the other goes with it. try swaping them (coil and ignitor) with a known good one.
yea that relay seems to be it. . . opened up the Dist. . had some dust/shavings on the bottom of the cap, cleaned it out, took the blk cover off, everything looked ok put it all back together. . gotta find a relay and try it. . will 96 fit? i got a 96 shell i can borrow and try.
ok its not the main relay, not the ecu, wow alot pf people i know who are good with this stuff are all stumped??!?!?
lol first thing first.
check your battery.....check your fuses, check your sensor plugs......if all is good
i dunno why your fuel pump would be intermittant
if your ignition relay is good, i dunno
when it does crank it cranks really sluggish? battery, i dont see anything else besides a crapy bat connection that would cause this. or drained battery
check your battery.....check your fuses, check your sensor plugs......if all is good
i dunno why your fuel pump would be intermittant
if your ignition relay is good, i dunno
when it does crank it cranks really sluggish? battery, i dont see anything else besides a crapy bat connection that would cause this. or drained battery
anyone think it could be the clutch pedal sensor switch. . . it seems the click real loud and if u pump it back and forth eventually the pump will kick on. .
Your coil or ignitor in the dist can be bad and not show visual sign of wear ya know! the only way to rule them out is to make sure that there is spark! 3 things needed for a combustion event in your motor! Spark, fuel and timing! With these three things, you have a running engine!
the motor only turns over about 5% of the time, the rest of the time nothing happens. do you guys thing the clutch pedal sensor switch could be bad? also there was a bootlegged alarm installed at one time so we spent a while ripping all of the wires out and got rid of the problem where the fuel pump wasnt turning on. now that works at least.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UltRaH22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">na still doesnt kick on 100% of the time. . also WHY DOES THE FAN kick on when i turn the key? ? strange!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had that happen with the fan thing before. Honestly...it turned out to be a just about dead battery. I couldn't believe it myself, but that is what it was.
I had that happen with the fan thing before. Honestly...it turned out to be a just about dead battery. I couldn't believe it myself, but that is what it was.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YAYA! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol first thing first.
check your battery
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check your battery
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Dont get angry it doesnt help. I would have some one look at your relay swithes. Maybe change fuel pump. Check to see if your getting fuel to the engine if you are then check to see if your getting spark. if all else fells take everything apart and put it back together.






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