Opportunity arrises to do some improvements.
Fitting TODA spec. A camshafts, so the head must come off to fit ITR intake valve springs to operate the exhaust side.
Already decided to fit the 0.6mm SPOON head gasket.
What else (but not too $$$$$$$$$$$), should i be looking at, while the head is off.
Hondata IM gasket perhaps?
Pls. help!

 

Is 1000 bux too much dough? If not - get a port and polish done.

 

If you're looking for more power, then headwork is definately the way to go.

 

Thought ITR's come ported and polished from the factory

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by olda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thought ITR's come ported and polished from the factory </TD></TR></TABLE>

there are degrees of p/p and the factory is a very very mild one.

 

How many miles/kilometers on the car? A valve job, mild clean up of the ports might not be a bad idea. New valve seals,

You might want to skim the head a few thousandths to make sure that it isn't warped at all. The thinner headgasket/skimming will retard the cams pushing the power up the powerband so adjustable cam gears might be in order. SkunkII's work well at a reasonable price.

Opening the intake ports at the mating surface will give you an anti-reversionary (sp?) step. Same with opening up the exhaust header.

Hondata IM gasket is good. Clean up the ports in the intake manifold. There may also be a couple horses in the AEBS intake manifold.

That should keep you busy.

John

 

A very comprehensive answer - thankx a million!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
Only 59k km on the clock.
Yes we're skimming the head
Yes we're fitting the Spoon 0.6mm gasket
Yes we're fitting the TODA cam adj. gears
Hondata IM gasket?????????????
Heard stories about the IM hot water by-pass being the reason for the IM temperature drop???
Anyone knows the truth???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by olda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hondata IM gasket?????????????
Heard stories about the IM hot water by-pass being the reason for the IM temperature drop???
Anyone knows the truth??? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Here's the truth, if you don't bypass the coolant line, your manifold will still be much cooler. I didn't bypass any coolant lines and datalogging shows my IAT sensor never reads above high 90's F

edit -- I should mention that I only datalog at night, so don't think my manifold is ALWAYS below 100 degrees.


Modified by PureTeg420 at 12:21 AM 3/14/2004

 

"Here's the truth, if you don't bypass the coolant line, your manifold will still be much cooler"

I agree.

If you clean up the intake manifold passages, you might also consider coating the inside of the intake manifold with a thermal barrier coating. Or even VHT Flameproof paint. The cooler the intake charge, the better.

These are all little things, but if you aren't in a rush.........

John

 

Thankx guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!