I have a b16a1 in a 91 DA, whenever I turn on the lights, a/c, defroster or anything electrical at idle speeds the idle becomes really rough. It almost stalls out, but never quite makes it, and then if you bring up the revs to start driving the idle smooths out.

I would appreciate any suggestions.

 

alternator goin out?

 

I'm not sure if this applies to your 91, but there should be an Electrical Load Detector that will allow the ECU to crack open the IAC/EACV a bit more to raise the idle speed when it gets loaded down.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roadrunner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not sure if this applies to your 91, but there should be an Electrical Load Detector that will allow the ECU to crack open the IAC/EACV a bit more to raise the idle speed when it gets loaded down.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can anyone explain this this to me a little more? Is there anything I can do about it directly?

I dont know if this matters, but I have a b16a1 in the car now.

Thanks

 

TTT

 

I have a similar problem with mine, the idle sometimes drops from 700-500. But then again, I am running the afc hack, so that might be my problem in the first place

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deluzional &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a similar problem with mine, the idle sometimes drops from 700-500. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That pretty much describes my problem in a nutshell, it sounds like it almost wants to stall, but wont quite do it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by giff74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That pretty much describes my problem in a nutshell, it sounds like it almost wants to stall, but wont quite do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>


This only happens to me when I shut off my car and start it back up a few mins later. Its rough, but after I start driving it again, its fine

 

try regrounding you engine with 4awg wire
soppose to help idle out alot

 

do you have any codes? If you have a ELD (electronic code dector) problems you should have a code 20. 2 long bilnks. What computer are you running? checvk for codes and let us know.

 

Unfortunately I dont have a way to check for codes. If I am driving and I switch something on its all good, but if I am stopped and hit the a/c the idle gets really rough?????

 

my car's idle was jumping around. It would go real low, almost out, then it would jump back up. took it to the shop and they told me it was my timing belt. someone put it on wrong. they put a new one on and re-timed it, ran smooth ever since.

 

If we didn't tensioned our A/C or alternator belt to specs, will this affect our idle?


Modified by Vu at 3:00 PM 3/14/2004

 

I'm not too sure what's on the DA for idle control. But I'll assume it's either an IAC (idle air control) valve or an ISC (idle speed control) motor.

From what you're saying, it sounds almost as if the component that controls your idle isn't functioning right. But there can be more to it than that.

What you can do is first, with the engine off, open the Throttle Blade and check to see if its bore is dirty. If it is, clean it out. A dirty bore will cause low idle problems because there's not enough air passing around the Throttle Blade.

Now if the Throttle Blade bore is clean, next thing I would do is power up either the ISC or IAC and see if it works. If not, I'd check the wiring and replace it if needed.

Good Luck.

 

i had iac problems this does not sound like an iac problem idle going up and down on it's own 500-1500 rpm is iac

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deluzional &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


This only happens to me when I shut off my car and start it back up a few mins later. Its rough, but after I start driving it again, its fine</TD></TR></TABLE>

same thing happens to me,but only when i use my obd1 ecu (sometimes happens while cold and starting as well - obd2 ecu never has the problem)
someone once told me it was because the eld
i looked into to it and it seems the voltage at idle has a .5 volt difference from obd2 to 1
my freinds and i just started refering to this as the crappy obd1 start
i wish someone could say more than this happens to everyone with a jumper, just hit the gas

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by giff74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can anyone explain this this to me a little more? Is there anything I can do about it directly?

I dont know if this matters, but I have a b16a1 in the car now.

Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm pretty sure the DA has ELD because the ones I've worked on in the past all had something to boost the idle when I loaded the engine with lights, defroster, etc. I don't think it's a problem with the IAC/EACV, but rather a problem with the ELD not sensing the increased load and telling the ECU to open the IAC/EACV to bring the engine speed back up to the idle spec.

Also, if you're running the B18a ECU, you may be running too rich at idle for the B16. The excessive richness will not only cause the engine to slow and even stall, especially when quickly coming off the throttle, but it will cause the idle to hunt up and down.

 

maybe you have a vacuum leak.