I bought my ITR about 2 weeks ago. It has 41000 miles on it. It came with AEM CAI, DC sport headers, and NGK plugs and wires. I got it from a major Honda Dealership here in VA. I took it to get dyno'd today thinking that I should be putting down at least 180 hp. So I put it on the dyno and I pull 138hp 100tq on the first run and 150hp 106 tq. WTF is that ****. They told me that the air fuel mixture was not correct. But talking to ABACUS racing, they said that was a normal fuel mixture. Man does my motor suck that bad. I am going to take it to let another shop look at it and see what is going on with it. This was on a dynojet not a mustang dyno. This is a graph of the pulls. What do you think? Any information would be helpful.

 

Can't see your graph, but those numbers on a dynojet are B16A numbers, or worse. Something is definitely not right.

I'd start by putting the stock plugs/wires back in.

 

That is a bit low, but I doubt you'd be in the 180's (maybe low 170's if you were lucky).

A valve adjustment might help.
Take your dyno info to the dealer and ask them to do a compression and leakdown test.

 

the AEM won't do much.. The NGK's won't do much.. and if thats not the JDM DC header it could be robbing hp.

..food for thought.

 

wait, how did it jump that much between the two dynos? was your car warmed up?

a/f ratio doesn't look too bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jonas &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wait, how did it jump that much between the two dynos? was your car warmed up?

a/f ratio doesn't look too bad.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah the car was warm and I thought that 12 hp from two dyno runs was pretty odd also...I don't want to put the blame on the dyno...my engine justs sucks ***.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zygspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That is a bit low, but I doubt you'd be in the 180's (maybe low 170's if you were lucky).

A valve adjustment might help.
Take your dyno info to the dealer and ask them to do a compression and leakdown test.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Okay maybe if it was only supposed to get 170hp. it is still up to 30 hp off. I am going to let Abacus take a look at it if they find anything back to dealer I go since it is still under warranty.

 

I'd say you should be in the high 160's, definitely NOT 170's.

With a J's racing intake and JDM DC 4-1, I had 167/121 on a dynojet, not sure which model exactly. When I added my Fujitsubo RM-01A and test pipe (because my proper-length cat hadn't come in yet) I had 175/126 on the same dynojet.

Stock ITRs usually get 158-162whp, as a reference.

The AEM might help a tiny bit, won't hurt. Wires/plugs - garbage. Put stock back on.
DC Header - if it is not a 2.5" OD header, its hurting, or at least not helping. It's probably not even marginally better than the stock ITR header.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd say you should be in the high 160's, definitely NOT 170's.

With a J's racing intake and JDM DC 4-1, I had 167/121 on a dynojet, not sure which model exactly. When I added my Fujitsubo RM-01A and test pipe (because my proper-length cat hadn't come in yet) I had 175/126 on the same dynojet.

Stock ITRs usually get 158-162whp, as a reference.

The AEM might help a tiny bit, won't hurt. Wires/plugs - garbage. Put stock back on.
DC Header - if it is not a 2.5" OD header, its hurting, or at least not helping. It's probably not even marginally better than the stock ITR header.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The header I am running is the DC sports copy of the JDM ITR Header 4 to 1.

 

It's not actually a copy, btw.

They are a bit different, but its good to know that you have a JDM sized header.

I still say mid-high 160's on a dynojet, from past experience.

 

There is something wrong with the car. Check the timing and compression.

 

uhhh, what the hell. Have you done a compression test on this motor? Has the motor ever been taken apart? You could use straws as headers and probably make more power than that. Somethin aint right y0! Definitely check all the standard stuff first (plugs, wires, timing, oil, vacuum leaks, compression test, etc).

Dont dynos have to be calibrated or something? Are we sure that dyno was operating up to spec?

 

I don't know what it should be putting out, that's why I went to get it dyno'd, but I know that 138 & 150 whp is not correct.

 

should be around mid-high 160s as Chris and others stated. Depends on ambient temps, humidity, etc, so it could be off a few either way.

EDIT: 6000th post HOLLA!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Outkast_DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't know what it should be putting out, that's why I went to get it dyno'd, but I know that 138 & 150 whp is not correct.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Check the code on the engine itself....could it be a b16 in there?

 

GK once said his car dyno'd @ 158 whp on a dynojet when stock (all those years ago).

 

Do this:

check timing. check compression. get stock plugs/wires. check engine code to make sure its a b18c5 (you never know!), and check for CEL/MIL codes.

Report back to us

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do this:

check timing. check compression. get stock plugs/wires. check engine code to make sure its a b18c5 (you never know!), and check for CEL/MIL codes.

Report back to us </TD></TR></TABLE>

Where else is there to check the engine code other than on the front on the block...it says b18c5 and the head has a code of pr3 3.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Outkast_DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where else is there to check the engine code other than on the front on the block...it says b18c5 and the head has a code of pr3 3.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Probably just needs a good tuneup (rotor/cap/plugs gapped correctly/fuel and air filters/oil and tranny fluid change).


Modified by zygspeed at 7:21 PM 3/11/2004

 

do a compression test. i bet one or more cylinders is low. The reason the numbers were so different is probably because on the first run, the motor wasnt all the way warm, so the o2 was reading cold and dumping fuel. If your compression is low in one or more cylinders you would not be burning all that fuel, hence the reason for low numbers. On the second run, im guessing the car was warm, the fuel mixture leaned out and was running a bit better. You can do a compression test yourself, its super easy. They cost anywhere from $20-40 for a decent one. If you can change spark plugs you can do a compression test.

BTW, i cant see the damn graph so i could just be talking out my ***.....

 

 

ill help out


to view the image bigger just copy this shortcut and past in url dont click wont work
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do a compression test. i bet one or more cylinders is low. The reason the numbers were so different is probably because on the first run, the motor wasnt all the way warm, so the o2 was reading cold and dumping fuel. If your compression is low in one or more cylinders you would not be burning all that fuel, hence the reason for low numbers. On the second run, im guessing the car was warm, the fuel mixture leaned out and was running a bit better. You can do a compression test yourself, its super easy. They cost anywhere from $20-40 for a decent one. If you can change spark plugs you can do a compression test.

BTW, i cant see the damn graph so i could just be talking out my ***.....</TD></TR></TABLE>


When I dynoed it I drove for like 20 minutes in traffic to get there and before I dynoed it; it ran at idle for about 5 minutes then but the car was not turned off between pulls on the dyno...that graph makes me sick looking at it...

 

Dyno #'s are usually all relative, but those #'s are exremely low, especially for a dynojet. Sure there isn't a B16 in your R? Compression Test, plugs, timing, leaks would be my take on the situation. Good luck man

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RGoose18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dyno #'s are usually all relative, but those #'s are exremely low, especially for a dynojet. Sure there isn't a B16 in your R? Compression Test, plugs, timing, leaks would be my take on the situation. Good luck man </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I am sure it is not a b16...I am going to get it compression checked and just have the entire set up checked before I take it back to the dealership. What do you think the chances of the dyno being wrong before I start looking into the motor. Doesn't it seem odd that I would get a 12 hp jump?