94 Accord Ex
159,000


Some guy offered me a 94 Accord Ex, 4 cylinder. The car got hit in the passengers door December 2003, and has been sitting since. The accident spun the car around and the passenger's headlight was destroyed; it pushed the bumper down on the passengers side; dented the hood enough to misalign the latch; latch mechanism is also bent down. Guy said it was always trouble free. Everything else looks ok.

I had to add a gallon of coolant to the radiator and although I could see the fluid level, it appeared as if it still needed more coolant, as there was none in the over flow bottle, but it was sufficient to prevent overheating. The engine started after four separate attempts. I saw a thick white smoke for a bit but then it disappeared within a minute after it was running - it was a cold day, so a certain amount of condensation would be normal (hard to say if it is a head gasket leak or not). The engine idled at about 2,250 rpms in park while cold. While the engine was running I saw a coolant leak underneath the drive belt are and onto the ground, about a drop every two seconds (I could not determine where the leak was actually coming from).

I shut off the engine to see if it would restart. On restart the idle was rapidly fluctuating up and down and I shut it off quickly. On a second restart it did the same thing again. I thought it might be a sticking throttle but a local shop said either it was a sticky or bad idle air valve. But another guy told me it was air in the cooling system and that I should bleed it out.

A mechanic said the initial four start attempts followed by the white smoke indicated hydro- electro-static-lock-up, caused by a leaky head gasket and cold weather. The mechanic said that it needs a new engine ... Mmmm ?

Some people tell me to go for it since the car is for free, but others tell me to run as fast as I can from that can of worms. A title transfer would cost me about $100. Insurance about $40/month. But towing would be another $50-$75, and if it turned out to be a junker, then maybe even a salvage yard would not want it. I have mixed feelings about this - mainly why isn't this guy fixing this otherwise nice car.

The guys daughter started to tell me it never overheated and stopped short of saying the full word "o v e r h e a t," as if she made a mistake and let the cat out of the bag - it certainly got my attention. Everything else looked fine and one gets the impression that it is a fixable car, not one you would see in a salvage yard. Sad situation actually.

But I just don't know these Hondas, so I posted here. Never owned a Honda before - I've been working on older Volvos myself, keep'n them going. Any opinions?

Btw, If the vote is for it, is the Haynes manual sufficient or should I get the official Honda literature.


Sincere thanks,
Diyer

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by diyer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have mixed feelings about this - mainly why isn't this guy fixing this otherwise nice car.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You answered your own question...

But to answer you, it is quite difficult to state the condition of a vehicle from behind a computer. I cannot see it, nor can i inspect it. But from what you describe, Not really worth the effort to fix unless you want to completly overhaul it. From what i gather, you probably don't know much about cars. You would probably end up spending alot of frustrated hours on this car. Leave it alone and look for something else.

fs

 

i agree, sounds that the only potential advantage would be to part it out if it is not heavily damaged.....other than that maybe stay away from it. I still have problems turning down free shiet though

 

"... But to answer you, it is quite difficult to state the condition of a vehicle from behind a computer. I cannot see it, nor can i inspect it. But from what you describe, Not really worth the effort to fix unless you want to completly overhaul it. From what i gather, you probably don't know much about cars. You would probably end up spending alot of frustrated hours on this car. Leave it alone and look for something else."


I've been shadetreeing since the 60's - just never a Honda. I'm not looking for a car, I have a Volvo. Just wanted to fix it up and sell it maybe or give it to Mom. Salvage yards offered me $350. (Btw, some lunatic just emailed me offering me $200 - No Way Hozay! Kelly's says they retail for $5,655), private party for $3-4K, trade for $2-3.

What was the major turn off about what I related?


diyer

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by diyer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"...What was the major turn off about what I related?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Like i said, pretty hard to judge from behind a computer. It was hit, a thorough examination of the body and frame is in order... Perhaps it is just cosmetic, i don't know.

Secondly, a possible overheating condition... That i don't like because you can never assess the damage until you start tearing into it..

Now, if your goal is to use it for parts or even fix it for your mother, and you have the time, some knowledge and a bit of cash, why not. Since it is free and you can at least salvage the thing if it don't work than what is the harm.

But if you are looking at using this car as a daily driver, you must understand that it may not perform like you think it will...

BTW, sometimes, when an engine overheats, it splashes coolant all over the engine bay.. Look above the hood, you may find dark water marks still there.. A good indication..

good luck

fs

 

Ten four, will do. Going to check under the hood for coolant splash. Btw, how does that happen - never heard of that suggestion before.

But the main thing I can do is to check myself this frame v cosmetic thing. Door is dented in center but no hit to the rocker panel. Hood aligns but small dent in front throwing out alignment to the latch, but it does latch bumper is hanging down on passengers side but not dents - strange, but probably snagged from behind the bumper and pulled forward and down, but still rigidly attached.

You tell me what to look for and I'll do it.

Thanks
Diyer

 

Not really much to it... If i would get that car, i would simply look at indications that the frame and such did not move on you. Regular body damage, rust and that sorta thing is not an issue i suppose. So:

1. Look down the length of the car. The lines of the car body should be straight. If not something moved

2. Check all the gaps between the fenders, doors, hood and trunk.Every gap should be even along its entire length. If not something moved

3. Check if doors, hood, trunck open and close properly.

4. Open the hood and check if everything is straight.

5. CHeck the following:

condition of battery: is it cracked, what is the voltage?
Alternator: is it charging
Condition of hoses, wiring, etc
gas tank
condition of the brakes
and tires.

Now since you are not really spending a ton of cash on this machine, i suspect you don't really care if it is full of bondo. If so, run a magnet on the panels. If magnet does not stick then bondo is present.

and so on...

fs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by diyer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ten four, will do. Going to check under the hood for coolant splash. Btw, how does that happen - never heard of that suggestion before.

But the main thing I can do is to check myself this frame v cosmetic thing. Door is dented in center but no hit to the rocker panel. Hood aligns but small dent in front throwing out alignment to the latch, but it does latch bumper is hanging down on passengers side but not dents - strange, but probably snagged from behind the bumper and pulled forward and down, but still rigidly attached.

You tell me what to look for and I'll do it.

Thanks
Diyer</TD></TR></TABLE>

if its free its not bad, you can always part the car and make back more than you spent! well i would done that atleast, but i wouldnt keep the car to drive myself.
some people are willing to spend 600-800 for the f22b1 engine alone, and sunroof motor or whole assembly worth 100-200, leather seats another few hundred! there alone you made back what u spent on the tow/insurance/transfer