sorry for such a noob question. still have muhc to learn. just wanted to know the differences between the set ups. what they consist of and what not. i know LS Vtec is a non vtec block with a vtec head, and that it must be maintained or it wont last very long. B20 vtec im not so sure of. is it also a mixture of motors ? whats the power on it? would it have to maintains just as much as a ls vtec set up? anything else i missed please add. once again sorry about the noob question. TIA

 

LS/vtec is obvioulsy an ls motor with a dohc vtec head from a b-series motor. This stetup is 1.8l, the ls has an 81mm bore. B20/vtec is just the same as an ls/vtec, but the block is pulled from a Honda CRV and it is 84mm, so it displaces 2.0l.

 

like he said above, and press that search button sometimes

 

the block are pretty much the same both non vtec blocks they share the same stroke only a differt bore. Like they said the ls is 81 mm And the b20 is A 84 mm. both have the stroke of 89 they Are very powerfull the onlt thing they dont have are the oil squirters in the bottom of the block to keep the piston and rods cooler. but when you put a vtec head on them they are very powerfull

 

Just know that the rod ratio really kind of sucks so they aren't well suited to revving high without a lot of work.

 

the only way you're going to learn is to search and read. i've learned so much here in the short time that i've been here.

 

last question. searched but couldnt find anything. how reliable is it? how long has it lasted some of you guys?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just know that the rod ratio really kind of sucks so they aren't well suited to revving high without a lot of work.</TD></TR></TABLE>


b18c = 1.58 RS
b18b = 1.54 RS

b16a = 1.7

doesnt look that bad once its put next to a gsr/itr rod ratio does it? You dont see people complainin bout revving a gsr/itr

 

What blows about the Ls block is there are no oil squirters to help keep the piston cool, and properly lubricated. If you plan to rev. high in an Ls bock get forged internals and you should be ok. But allot of people has been doing fine without them, but one day it will fail on them. Basically Ls/vtec is an unreliable set up because it’s not factory made. I have a Ls/vtec in my 93 coupe. As long as you do it right it should be cool. Don’t go cheap in Ls/vtec put out the money and do it right.





Modified by kerby116 at 1:42 AM 3/28/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kerby116 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What blows about the Ls block is there are no oil squirters to help keep the piston cool, and properly lubricated. If you plan to rev. high in an Ls bock get forged internals and you should be ok. But allot of people has been doing fine with them, but one day it will fail on them. Basically Ls/vtec is an unreliable set up because it’s not factory made. I have a Ls/vtec in my 93 coupe. As long as you do it right it should be cool. Don’t go cheap in Ls/vtec put out the money and do it right. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's not just the oil squirters, LS/CRV blocks use smaller rod bearings than their B series counterparts. CRV blocks also have a 1 piece sleeve design which is weaker.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kerby116 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What blows about the Ls block is there are no oil squirters to help keep the piston cool, and properly lubricated. If you plan to rev. high in an Ls bock get forged internals and you should be ok. But allot of people has been doing fine without them, but one day it will fail on them. Basically Ls/vtec is an unreliable set up because it’s not factory made. I have a Ls/vtec in my 93 coupe. As long as you do it right it should be cool. Don’t go cheap in Ls/vtec put out the money and do it right.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

the stock rod has a type of oiling system built into it.




Shoots towards the wrist pin area

 

let me tell you this. The R/S on a lsvtec or b20vtec isn't a big issue. Don't listen to how people tell you its unreliable it is. If you have a factory motor and you hit vtec everytime you think it will last? Also just because honda didn't make it from the factory that it wouldn't last. Those are so old ****, you can't go cheap on a lsvtec. A good 4-5 g's to build the block and assemble the head correctly, will give you a good power output will keeping its long lasting reliable. Also depending on how you drive. If you drive like a got damn monster everyday, then no motor will last on your hands. Dont go cheap period on anything, remember " you have to pay to play "...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiBirdie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">let me tell you this. The R/S on a lsvtec or b20vtec isn't a big issue. Don't listen to how people tell you its unreliable it is. If you have a factory motor and you hit vtec everytime you think it will last? Also just because honda didn't make it from the factory that it wouldn't last. Those are so old ****, you can't go cheap on a lsvtec. A good 4-5 g's to build the block and assemble the head correctly, will give you a good power output will keeping its long lasting reliable. Also depending on how you drive. If you drive like a got damn monster everyday, then no motor will last on your hands. Dont go cheap period on anything, remember " you have to pay to play "...</TD></TR></TABLE>

agree 100 percent!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiBirdie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">let me tell you this. The R/S on a lsvtec or b20vtec isn't a big issue. Don't listen to how people tell you its unreliable it is. If you have a factory motor and you hit vtec everytime you think it will last? Also just because honda didn't make it from the factory that it wouldn't last. Those are so old ****, you can't go cheap on a lsvtec. A good 4-5 g's to build the block and assemble the head correctly, will give you a good power output will keeping its long lasting reliable. Also depending on how you drive. If you drive like a got damn monster everyday, then no motor will last on your hands. Dont go cheap period on anything, remember " you have to pay to play "...</TD></TR></TABLE>


there too much bs about the lsvtec being crap cuz of the rs
the rs is really almost the same as a b18c block

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiBirdie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The R/S on a lsvtec or b20vtec isn't a big issue. Don't listen to how people tell you its unreliable it is. If you have a factory motor and you hit vtec everytime you think it will last? Also just because honda didn't make it from the factory that it wouldn't last.Also depending on how you drive. If you drive like a got damn monster everyday, then no motor will last on your hands. Dont go cheap period on anything, remember "</TD></TR></TABLE>
excellent explanation...the only thing i dont agree with is having to spend 4-5k to build it for it to be reliable,other than that

 

4-5G's? that might be pushing it a bit. It would be a totally sleeved and built long block. $1k sleeves, $1500 head package, $1000 forged internals, and $500 for misc parts (cam gears, Toda timing belt, headgasket, ARP studs.)

My ls/vtec went like this: $200 LS short block, Free B16 pistons, $150 timing belt/water pump/oil pump, $700 complete P72 head, $150 ls/vtec oil kit, $100 machine shop labor. I'm definitely missing a few things... but it can be done for fairly cheap, and make great power.