Just wanted to get some opinions on both roll bars. Im guessing Kirk's bars are a bit more expensive? Im wanting just the basic 4 pt. roll bar...that goes up behind the seats..across the top...has the harness bar and then the 2 bars that go towards the back..

Will the autopower suffice or is it worth spending the extra cash?


[Modified by RATEDR, 11:48 AM 10/17/2001]

 

mmmmmmmmmmmm KIRK KIRK KIRK KIRK KIRK KIRK KIRK KIRK.









I'll post pics of the autopower later..

 

A 4-pt is not a cage - it is a bar. Cages are 6 point minimally.

 

Dave: if you dont mind me asking...how much did that run you?

 

595 plus ~60.00 shipping. I need to weld in the door bars still... hopefully will have that done before the gap..

 

I would go with Kirk too, but I need to have use of the back seats during the week, so the autopower is removable.

Here is a link to an install: http://www.itrca.com/faq/mod_autopower_rollbar.asp

 

that was my next question: I still use my R for daily driving so I need access to my rear seats. So will the auto power be better for my needs? Can you not get to the rear seats with the Kirk bar?

 

I think the backseats are pretty useless with either bar installed.. but I doubt they'd even go back all the way with the kirk setup...

but I don't think they'll go forward all the way with the autopower? not sure though since I don't know anyone who keeps the interior after installing a bar/cage....

 

Hey, another photo op!



It was imperitive for me that the interior stay the same, since I wanted to stay GS legal. The Kirk bar, as I understood it, wouldn't let me do that.

Oh yea, and the back seat does go all the way forward with the autopower bar, as well as all the way back:




[Modified by ITR#231, 1:01 PM 10/17/2001]

 

I will be at Deal's gap w/ my 6-point Autopower cage.. for anybody who is interested. It's the stronger DOM steel design, so the diameter is only 1.5in in diameter, but just as strong as the fatty ERW bars(1.75-2.0in).
Check Here to see my pics from NOPI which include many pics of my cage:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=70880


[Modified by XR4racer, 4:34 PM 10/17/2001]

 

XR4: Cool, I'll have my Kirk 6 point.. we can compare

 

ITR#231, everytime I see these pics, it gets me excited. I ordered my Autopower rollbar last week. Should be here around December and installed before next March and be ready for the track. I love the way your interior has stayed intact. And I also hear, chicks dig that look of the rollbar in the car!

 

the kirk bar looks , but won't the two bars extending to the back cause more damage in a rear end collision?

yoshi - who could be wrong

 

Hey 231, how does the bar secure in the rear like that? through the plastic panels or speaker holes or something?

 

Questions for #231

1. How is peripheral vision effected outside the rear side windows during street driving due to the main hoop?

2. Since the cross-bar and lateral bar are bolted to the main hoop, how hard are they to remove? I'm interested in being able to recline the front seats & utilize the rear seats.

3. I know the cage goes thru the speaker holes and bolts into the wheel well. Did you remove the rear speakers or were you able to slightly move then for space?


[Modified by RStoR, 6:20 PM 10/17/2001]

 

Hah, hah, hah! Yea, we like to pretend that chicks dig the rollbar, but sadly...half of them don't give a sh*t, and the other half bitch if they can't recline their seat back. Oh well, it gives them something to hold on to in the back seat

 

BlackR,

The rear hoop braces bolt on to the top/front of the rear wheel well. You'll need a backup plate located in the wheel well above the tire for proper mounting, creating a sandwich with the body of the car in the middle. See my FAQ for pics.

RStoR,

1. I don't hardly ever look out these windows when I'm driving, since I sit pretty close to the wheel. I just use the main front side windows. I guess the bar would block your view out of the rear small window if you sat far enough back. The main hoop also blocks the rear-view mirror view a little, but still not as bad as the OEM spoiler already does

2. The cross brace and harness bar are very easy to remove. Here's the trick. Steel will mold to the shape of the car if you give it enough time. If you remove the cross brace and the harness bar right after you install everything, you might not be able to get it back in. However, if you keep everything in place for a while, the bars come out and go back in with no difficulty. Just one person, an end wrench, a socket wrench, and 5 min.

3. I am told that you can relocate the stock speakers and keep both at the same time. I didn't bother, since they sound like crap anyway. More trouble than it's worth, IMHO. However, I think it has been done. I just replaced the two fronts and called it good. Not like any stereo sounds good in the R anyway (come on stereo guys, you know it's true )

 

Safety 21/Cusco







I have more pics on my site but shitty *** Geoshities isn't working for me right now!




[Modified by drealgsr, 5:19 PM 10/17/2001]

 

137 still wants to go to japan and hump dee's exhuast which is the real deal of mine... hehe and make a togue run with the zeals... black ricer in japan!!! ... nyuck nyuck!!!

HAHA i just remembered the jdm cars are rhd, been so long since i seen one, I was like why the **** does this guy have a racing seat on the passenger side of his car... ****** weirdo... *slaps forehead *


[Modified by 137, 4:25 PM 10/17/2001]

 

ITR#231 - your set up looks so clean! I have a few question about the autopower roll-bar. It would be awesome if you could take your time to answer some of the questions. Thanks!

1. Theoretically, it's possible to un-do the horizontal bar and the cross bar during street driving, rigth?
2. Where the bar mounts to the speaker hole... did you have to cut the plastic panel, or the hole that I see is a cover that just pops off?
3. How can you stay in GStock if you have a JDM rear-strut bar?

Thanks.

 

DrealGSR - How do you mount the harness on that setup? You don't have any horizontal bars other than the rear strut bar.

 

I do have a horizontal bar. You just can't see it because the pic is so shitty..hehehe! If you look at the rear strut bar closer you will see the Roll cage cross bar right behind it!

Grrrrrr... ... got more pics on my site but Geoshitties keeps giving me a TCP error. I need to finish my page and move it some-damn-where-else because Geoshitties sux monkey snot!

137.. you are a fool man!!...

mo' pics... the wood is the mounting spot for my Alpine amp, HKS CAMP(for Sale), AC/DC converter, and other electronic ****!







[Modified by drealgsr, 5:18 PM 10/17/2001]

 

1. Yes, you can remove both the cross brace and the harness bar for daily driving. However, I find that I use the rear seat so infrequently that I never bother to take out the bars. So, I just leave them in all the time unless I plan on needing the back seat. That's easier than having to install them again every weekend, and finding room in the garage to keep extra stuff.

2. Nope, no cutting. You have to remove the large side panels during the install to gain access to the top of the wheel well for mounting, so that makes removing the rear speaker panels VERY easy. The bar just slides right through. If I ever pick up an extra pair of rear speaker covers, I've been toying with the idea of cutting out a whole in the covers to make it look a little more finished (I'm funny that way).

3. Picky, picky, LOL. I actually do remove the strut bar at each race just so nobody gives me a hard time. Takes about 1 minute since I just remove the 4 bolts that hold the cross bar. I leave in the black mounting points since they don't do anything but add weight when the bar is removed. However, I just do this to make myself feel better since I don't like to cheat, even if it's a stupid little thing. I'm lucky enough to race where there isn't anyone who would complain about little stuff like that anyway.

 

drealgsr - btw, how much for the 6-pt cusco cage?

ITR#231 - just giving you a hard time on rear strut bar.

 

brand new is $800 but I only paid $400 for mine... I love Japanese auction pages! I'm gonna add a bar that will connect the main loop behind front seats and maybe the bar that connects at the top of the main loop above the drivers head and diagonally behind the passenger seat. Since this is a bolt-in cage I'm gonna get brace added in four spots that will connect the cage to the body at the "oh ****" handle spots on each side of the car and where the main loop is close to the upper seat belt bolt!... Stiff chasis feels mo' better good!! I took a CSi member for a ride while he was here and he loved the car eventhough I had shitty tires and a diff that in need of a rebuild...