ok so me and another guy just put a 92 accord dx engine on my 90 accord ex. when i start the car i see that the check engine light doesn't go out. i try the engine in the streets and highway just to be sure that there is nothing wrong with the engine and there isn't anything wrong. but the light still stays on. i have been told that it's normal for that light to be on when u change engines. is it true????
where is the check engine sensor located at???????????
does the sensor located on top of the muffler have anything to do with it(O2 sensor)
help me finish **** long going project man.

 

What code does it have stored?

 

lol man i have no idea about any code. i just know that after we swaped the engine the light doesn't come out. when i start the car the light goes out for 3-4 seconds then it comes up again.
any ideas

 

Your "Powertrain Control Module" or PCM is the brain in your car.

When you start your car the PCM performs some self tests. The "check engine light" will flash at first and then go out and stay out if your PCM does not detect any faults. However, when you start your car and the check engine light flashes, goes out, and then comes back on again, and stays on, this means the PCM has detected a fault - something is wrong with your engine! This fault is recorded by the PCM as a "fault code #" and and is stored in the PCM until the fault code is "cleared". Whenever a fault code is stored the check engine light will come on everytime you start your car even though the fault may be gone and your engine is running just fine.
The PCM controls how your engine performs and it is does this by constantly "optimising" the performance of your engine based on the information it recieves from all it's sensors.
It even optimises your engine performance when you have a "degrading" sensor present in your system giving back bad information. It does this because it is dynamic and has a memory for operating conditions from the past. It is smart and is constantly changing. This is how your car runs and you cannot change it. When you first started your engine after rebuilding it ran rough for a short period of time until the PCM figured out optimal running conditions for your engine. It remembers these conditions the next time you start your engine. So when your engine's brain say's that something is wrong you really should find out before your car breaks down.
Here's what to do. Find out if anything is actually wrong first. If we clear the fault code and restart the car we can determine if the fault is gone. Clear the fault by turning the key to "on" (without starting the engine!) and holding the "reset" button on the dash for 20 seconds. The reset button sometimes doubles as an odometer button. It's there you will find it. If the check engine light stays out the fault is cleared and nothing is wrong.
If the check engine light stays on you need to read the fault code to find out what is wrong with your engine. You can pay a tech to retreive the code or you can buy a "Haines" manual that shows you how to read the codes with a simple jumper wire. The book is about $20, the mechanic is, well, who knows? I don't know if "code readers" for Honda's are commercially available but I bet they would be pricey.
The procedure is real simple with a jumper wire. There is a "Data Link Connector" or DLC located under the dash above the driver's left foot (just above the front hood release) that is used to access the PCM fault codes. At least there is in my 99 Accord - you didn't say what year your car was. The DLC appears "D" shaped when looking directly at the face of the connector and is about 3/4"W x 1.5"H. The DLC has 16 pins - 8 on the right and 8 on the left. The pins are numbered 1 thru 8, top to bottom on the right. And are numbered 9 thru 16, top to bottom on the left.
You need to jumper pin 8 to pin 13 to retrieve the fault codes.
Here's what you do. Make sure the check engine light comes on when you turn the key to on - if it doesn't light replace the lamp. Open your drivers door. You probably have it open anyway but I just want to make sure you hear the chime. Make sure your dome light (O/H light) is on as well . With the engine off (everything else off too), and ignition key on, jumper pin 8 to pin 13 at the DCL. When you jumper the chime will go off and the dome light will go off. Honda's cute way of saying you are connected I guess. Kinda like when you hear a different chime than usual when you open your drivers door - you know you have a blown fuse.
Anyways, back to reading the code. If the jumper is installed correctly the check engine light will now flash your fault code. The light will flash a group of long flashes followed by a group of short flashes. The long flashes represent the 1st # of the fault code. The short flashes represent the 2nd # of the fault code. The fault code is made up of 2 numbers. For example; 7 long flashes followed by 3 short flashes represents a fault code of #37. 7 long flashes and no short flashes would indicate a fault code of #07, while no long flashes and 3 short flashes would indicate a fault code of #30. You get the idea.
Buy a manual and find out what the fault is. These VTEC engines are easy to understand and you save yourself a ton of money if you are in the least bit mechanically inclined. It might just be a simple and easy to replace sensor. Or maybe you have a major problem that you can't readily see.
My Haines lists about 80 faults. I may not understand the fault right away but at least I get pointed in the right direction.

 

Check Noc or Knock sensor, engine Knocks when there is a problem only the sensor can hear it, you need one that matches your engine now

 

jump the ecu then tell us the codes

 

Did you do a complete transplant? Is the PCM/ECU that's giving the error light the same that was with the engine before?

My guess is that the PCM is reading some change due to the new hybrid you have created. It cannot resolve the differences in the sensor readings with what is stored in its default memory. Maybe you didn't swap the MAF or some other sensor, so its getting wrong readings.

 

i have a 90 accord ex. i just swaped the engine for a >>>92 accord dx engine,,,, the car from where the engine came off was with a manual trans. i just took the engine . i didn't get the ecu or enything else from the other car. just put the engine and that is it. but i didn't finish the work. when i went to get my car it was doing some funny working. the rpm were going up and down. then the guy checked somekind of vavle that is on the right uperside of the engine. when he took the wires off the engine worked fine. when he conected then the rpm were going up and down. he told me that he was going to fix it. another thing that i noticed that is different about my car is that the car don't shift like before. it shifts harder(auto trans) this might be because the front engine mount is gone. but another thing is >>>>>> when i start the car in the morning the RPM don't go up as it should. it just stays a 1000 rpm. before the engine swap when i started the car in the morning the rpm's would go up to 1700 rpm>>untill the car workms up and the rpm goes down to 1000 or 900. anyway i am going to go under the dashboard to check th ecu. but after i put the stapel thing in the wires where should i look for the LIGHT to blink?????

 

Check the codes.

 

Please do yourself a favor get a manual! On your car the DLC is located in the passenger kick panel. When you place in a jumper, you will count the number of time the CEL light flashes like "skiier" said too.

 

drive to autozone and have the bums there to pull the code for you.

 

Just my opinion, it will never work. The ECU must be compatible with the engine and all the sensors that go with. You can't just swap part of the system and expect it to work as before.

 

there's no check engine sensor, but there's like 6+other sensor that monitor the working on the engine. knock sensor, o2 sensorx2, coolant temp, iat, etc

you need to pull the code and see what part of the motor is having problem, sometime you'll get a bad sensor, sometime you'll get a good sensor but a bad motor

 

ok then i have to check the ecu for the codes. **** i don't like messing with electrical stuff. and buy the way guys i was looking for an alternative way of fixing the problem. lol thanks anyway .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alb_accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... i was looking for an alternative way of fixing the problem. lol thanks anyway .</TD></TR></TABLE>It's always good to know what the actual problem is before you decide how to fix it.