well this is generally a dumb question but, i would like some pics or advice on how to get the car down to competitive weight. i was lookin through IDRCs minimum weight limits and holy cow, 1550lbs for a honda w/b series. thats including driver!!! how in the hell do u get a car down that light w/driver. mine is sittin at 1680 or so w/o me. i still dont even have a roll bar in there yet. of course the weight goes up depending on if the car is backhalfed or total tube but still, thats ultra light. insight please!!!!

 

im intrested to hear reply's also i've seen pics of 1 2 nv's car and it looks pretty bare.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nw94rs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im intrested to hear reply's also i've seen pics of 1 2 nv's car and it looks pretty bare.</TD></TR></TABLE>



lets get serious here i do have a dash but that doesnt weigh that much. the wiring harness that i do have behind the dash is stripped of all unneeded wires (ie heater controls, radio, cig lighter, u get the picture).

 

we have a 92 hatchback with a h22 motor that weighs 1490 with no driver full race car. it has an alluminum rear end and a nhra six point roll bar. unibody but still has 40lbs. to shed off. we r hoping to get it down to around 1600lb. range with driver.it has fiberglass front end doors and hatch. mr10 lexan all the way around.spindle nut rear axle.

 

pics???

 

Drop that fuel tank and put a small fuel cell in, cut out the rear floor and put some aluminum in, lexan windows, fiberglass everything (doors, 1pc, hatch, rear bumper, dash), no sound deadining material what so ever, rear chromoly straight axle, and weith 140 lbs like me! LOL. Thats all I could think of off the top of my head. I know you have most of that done.

 

thanx for the free bump mike. u were absolutely no help

anyways, i need to keep the rear end in tact, i have to keep the stock mounting pts of the car till next yr when i fully backhalf the damn thing. then ill address that other ****. but im still lookin for a way to lose weight. keep them comin.

 

you could always cut up the frontend i mean all the sheet metal in front of the strut towers like the full race cars, but that is if u haven't done that yet..

 

i spent a lot of time cutting useless pieces out of my interior like the mount for the spare tire and passenger seat, among others, stripping the undercoating was about 30 lbs or so, i gutted the hatch, either run no dash (like ericks new crx) or an aluminum one, you can replace bolts with aluminum ones.. there are lots of little tricks that can be done if you need to get even more out.. like drilling holes out one or two sizes bigger.

 

My race car weighs 1650 with me in it and im 180lbs... The car is a 92vx fiberglass front end doors hatch lexan mr10 as windows Mb rear suspension bogart skinnies and fronts... I cut out the front end core support and had a chasis shop weld a bar (chromoloy) to hold up my radiator Aluminum dash not to mention it also has a roll cage(6 point) Irun all stell braided brake lines meaning that there are no hard lines anymore and no master distribution for the brakes. Also I still havent scraped all the tar offf the car. I will have new pictures posted soon of the entire 6 month build up its already running and will debut at Fontana this week... I wish i can post the pics to show you guys every part of the car but i dont knoe how someone help me... Oh I forgot it has a 1 gallon fuel cell no longer rinning a gas tank which was about 30lbs may be or more

 

see, thats the kinda of stuff that i have done too. the 6pt cage weighs roughly the same amount as the solid rear axles so those kinda cancel each other out if u know what i mean. the other stuff is the same stuff i have done to my car. except i do have full chassis in the rear.

 

also the weight of the bucket of bolts was overwhelming i saved alot of weight by just eliminating all the bolts screw nuts that i didnt need the box i havent weiged yet but its a good 25 lbs or more...

 

Sorry 1 2 NV... LOL

I like this thread. Lets keep the ideas coming.

Check out my buddy's CRX. The back half is sweet!
http://www.speedmachineperform..._drag
All the info and mods isn't fully up yet.

 

thats matts car, he hooked me up with all my MB stuff.

 

there are tons of little braces/brackets/mounting holes that you can shave.. i have them all in a box and it was around 15 lbs. i'll try to get some pics of what im talking about.

 

That CRX is so sick...how they made all the fiberglass look stock.

Whats it weigh?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanx for the free bump mike. u were absolutely no help

anyways, i need to keep the rear end in tact, i have to keep the stock mounting pts of the car till next yr when i fully backhalf the damn thing. then ill address that other ****. but im still lookin for a way to lose weight. keep them comin.</TD></TR></TABLE>what do you mean by fully backhalf?

 

back half tube chassis.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">back half tube chassis.</TD></TR></TABLE>oh i got ya...

 

I've got some more pics of Matt's car somewhere. It was from before he painted the rear and was getting the cage in. I'm not sure on the exact weight, but I bet its very close to the minimum required for a 1.6L. He's a big guy though. Probably 200 lbs or so. Not fat, just big...LOL

One thing I remembered... Get undereath and take off all the fuel lines you aren't using anymore and scrape off as much undercoating as possible.

 

only 2 lines runnin to the back, left and right rear brakes. i never really thought about the undercoating, thats goin to b a pain in the ***. i suppose i could give it a shot. boy our garage just got organized.

 

the undercoating weighs a lot, there is a snap-on tool that removes it really well.. i'll try to find a link. its like an air chisel with a wide, flat, skinny blade that gets under the undercoating really well and flakes it off.

 

Too take off the undercoating, all you need is a heat gun and a scraper... You could always do a firewall-back tube chassis and take out the floor...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NextLevel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Too take off the undercoating, all you need is a heat gun and a scraper... You could always do a firewall-back tube chassis and take out the floor...
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thats what im lookin at doin but i have no suspension engineering knowledge. i have alot of ideas which are simple but im not breakin the sound barrier so as long as it holds up the car thats all that should matter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">only 2 lines runnin to the back, left and right rear brakes. i never really thought about the undercoating, thats goin to b a pain in the ***. i suppose i could give it a shot. boy our garage just got organized. </TD></TR></TABLE>i never thought about the undercoating either ...and what about your fuel lines how many do you have and where do they run?