tell us:
1- what brand you use
2-why you use it
3-any oil Additives you use also

 

#1:MOBIL-1 15-30 synthetic
#2:because there was a free t-shirt promo

 

1. Valvoline durablend 10w-30
2. It keeps bearings, rings, journals.. etc.. lubricated I like the blue bottle.
3. Once, I dropped a 10mm socket in there.. (none)

B16A3 and D16Y8

 

1. Valvoline VR-1 Racing 20w50
2. Only oil that has ever been in motor since built and shop recommended it
3. None

 

Castrol 5/10x30 GTX
High SAE rating and well recommended. Castrol has been around a long time and they are up to date with motor oil technology like Mobile 1, IMHO.
No additives...

- Edit: I use this oil in both my Audi and my Honda...

 

used to run with mobil 1 5w30 or 10w30 and it kept on burning up. i then switched to castrol syntec 10w30 and the oil hasn't burned yet.

 

1. Royal Purple
2. cuz its purple and cool
3. no additives except i try to use 10w 30 in the winder and 5w 30 in the summer.

 

i use mobil 1 10w30 or 5w30. i switch it up every year. 10w30 one year, 5w30 the next.

 

1. Amsoil ATM 10w-30 Turbo Formulated
2. Because it is the best, it can run up to 25k before an oil change (non-turbo)
You can get a test kit, so at about 7k you can send in a sample of your oil for
them to test.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jL iLLuZiOnz 9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i use mobil 1 10w30 or 5w30. i switch it up every year. 10w30 one year, 5w30 the next.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Uh, 5w30 winter, 10w30 summer... Not annual...

Also, for the question regarding SYN oils, running SYN oils in a high miliage engine is NOT a problem, the only issue is that the SYN oil will 'eat' away the sluge created by the conventional oils over years, this 'slugge' helps protect, so running SYN you might be prone to more leaks... I hope that helps...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by perlmeistere81 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. Amsoil ATM 10w-30 Turbo Formulated
2. Because it is the best, it can run up to 25k before an oil change (non-turbo)
You can get a test kit, so at about 7k you can send in a sample of your oil for
them to test. </TD></TR></TABLE>

**** off, seriously, I will never buy a car off you ( )... 24k before an oil change, slap yourself in the face right now as hard as you can...

 

depends where you live 976.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jL iLLuZiOnz 9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">depends where you live 976.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Point well taken

 

You don't have to buy a car off of me

http://www.amsoil.com/products/atm.html

I just speak the truth

 

haha 25,000 mile oil change. sure i believe you . you or they will never get anybody to believe that. the highest i'd ever go is 4,000 and i think thats pushing it.

 

1. castrol 20w-50 (the regular ****)
2. because im old school at heart i guess and don't like synthetic oil (no facts to prove this its just my opinion)
3. nope

 

3k is just a recommedation, it is way too soon for an oil change. 5-6k is a more realistic. I never said that I would change mine at 25k, the nice thing is the test kit. You send it in and they give you a printout of your oil characteristics, no need to change unless you need to.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by perlmeistere81 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3k is just a recommedation, it is way too soon for an oil change. 5-6k is a more realistic. I never said that I would change mine at 25k, the nice thing is the test kit. You send it in and they give you a printout of your oil characteristics, no need to change unless you need to.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well i find that complete bull ****. you can't set an arbitray barrier, 3000 is suggest. so i check it there and 100% of the time the oil is broken down and nasy as hell.

and why is it such a big deal to change your oil its like 15 bucks max and takes about 20 mins.

**** i figure change oil often= better oil in the car, = longer running better running motor

 

1) Valvoline Max life 10w-30
(for cars with 75,000 miles+)

2) Because my car has 98,000 miles and I love it

3) None

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

well i find that complete bull ****. you can't set an arbitray barrier, 3000 is suggest. so i check it there and 100% of the time the oil is broken down and nasy as hell.

and why is it such a big deal to change your oil its like 15 bucks max and takes about 20 mins.

**** i figure change oil often= better oil in the car, = longer running better running motor</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its not a big deal, I agree. Just a waste of money changing your oil more often then the engine needs it.

 

i use mobil 1 just cause

 

Always used Penzoil 5W30 in all my cars.

Because I've been using it forever and I'm like a bug to a bug zapper when I go looking for oil at the store. Hmmmm, yellow

No additives. Every now and then I dump in some fuel injector cleaner. But I guess that doesn't count since it goes in the gas tank. NONE then.

 

Honda= Mobil semi synthetic 10w30 every 3k
BMW=mobil 1 full synthetic 5w30 every 3k.
Additives are bad.

 

1-Honda Genuine Oil
2-I figure its a Honda so Honda would know how to make the best oil for the car.
3-None

 

1 Amsoil
2 because it is the best
3 none