How do u bleed ur clutch or can u tell if ur Clutch Master cylinder is bad ?
How do u bleed ur clutch or can u tell if ur Clutch Master cylinder is bad ? i dont know something is wrong wit my clutch and i jsut chagned it a week ago and its slipping already? please help!
Clutch is slipping?? That's (almost) never the hydraulics' fault.
When the hydraulics go, it won't disengage. Whether it's the master or the slave, or just air in the lines, you have trouble DISengaging.
When the hydraulics go, it won't disengage. Whether it's the master or the slave, or just air in the lines, you have trouble DISengaging.
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From: You can be my wingman anytime...., Las Vegas, US
If you cylinder is bad, it will leak, and the level of fluid will fall. (you can see it.)
If you don't have any fluid, you won't have any peddle pressure, and your clutch won't engage.
If you don't have any fluid, you won't have any peddle pressure, and your clutch won't engage.
ok thanks alot, its just i drive my car and after about 15 mins of driving the clutch starts to slip and lil and i just changed tthe clutch a week ago, but thanks ne way i just need alot of help wit this
bleeding the clutch is pretty straight forward, there will be a brake bleeder type screw on the tranny....between the engine and the rad....bleed it like you would normal brakes.
If its allready slipping, IMO you didnt change the clutch properly. Could be grease on the plates or maybe you didnt torque it down properly.
As mentionned above, the hydraulics will not cause the clutch to slip. When they dont work, the clutch will not release.
If its allready slipping, IMO you didnt change the clutch properly. Could be grease on the plates or maybe you didnt torque it down properly.
As mentionned above, the hydraulics will not cause the clutch to slip. When they dont work, the clutch will not release.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integra707 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you cylinder is bad, it will leak, and the level of fluid will fall. (you can see it.)</TD></TR></TABLE>If the MC has an internal leak, it'll leak back into the reservoir. It won't leak OUT & the level won't drop.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integra707 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you don't have any fluid, you won't have any peddle pressure, and your clutch won't engage.</TD></TR></TABLE>Your clutch won't DISengage. You press the pedal down to disengage...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integra707 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you don't have any fluid, you won't have any peddle pressure, and your clutch won't engage.</TD></TR></TABLE>Your clutch won't DISengage. You press the pedal down to disengage...
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ThirdGenLSR209 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im having a clutch master cylinder problem as well, is it hard to change a CMC?? and does anyone know if there is any write ups on honda tech about replacing CMC's. I searched but couldnt find any, thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
pretty easy job.
removal/installation:
remove reservoir rubber hose & plug it so it won't leak brake fluid
remove the other metal hose that goes to the slave cylinder
unscrew two 10 or 12mm mounting nuts from the inside compartment
remove the pedal pin and cotter pin that's holding it
install is the reverse order
10-15 minutes max
bleeding it:
1) attach a rubber hose over the bleed screw of the slave cylinder and suspend the hose in a jar of brake fluid.
2) unscrew the bleed screw and slowly pump the clutch until you don't see any more bubbles coming out of the hose. make sure the brake reservoir level is adequate.
2-4 minutes max
pretty easy job.
removal/installation:
remove reservoir rubber hose & plug it so it won't leak brake fluid
remove the other metal hose that goes to the slave cylinder
unscrew two 10 or 12mm mounting nuts from the inside compartment
remove the pedal pin and cotter pin that's holding it
install is the reverse order
10-15 minutes max
bleeding it:
1) attach a rubber hose over the bleed screw of the slave cylinder and suspend the hose in a jar of brake fluid.
2) unscrew the bleed screw and slowly pump the clutch until you don't see any more bubbles coming out of the hose. make sure the brake reservoir level is adequate.
2-4 minutes max
changeing master and slave cylindars are pretty simple auto machannics. Everyone should be able to do them. When I was a tech I did them all the time on many diff cars. No need to ever look at the book. Just take it out of there and bleed the new ones. Verry basic stuff. Yes there is a write up on it tho. Its in any car manual. Basically all master and slave cylindars are the same. Just take it out, put in a new one, and bleed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jet Black »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bleeding the clutch is pretty straight forward, there will be a brake bleeder type screw on the tranny....between the engine and the rad....bleed it like you would normal brakes.
If its allready slipping, IMO you didnt change the clutch properly. Could be grease on the plates or maybe you didnt torque it down properly.
As mentionned above, the hydraulics will not cause the clutch to slip. When they dont work, the clutch will not release.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Werd... Beat me to it
If its allready slipping, IMO you didnt change the clutch properly. Could be grease on the plates or maybe you didnt torque it down properly.
As mentionned above, the hydraulics will not cause the clutch to slip. When they dont work, the clutch will not release.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Werd... Beat me to it
I think my clutch mc might have an internal leak. I've replaced the s/c...clutch, flywheel (piece broke off of my clutch) unrelated prombem.....anyways...my M/C is supposed to be pretty new, but i can't build any pressure...not trying to hijack the thread...here's a link to my problem.....
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=799486
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=799486
After replacing my slave cylinder, I sat there for 30 minutes slowly pumping the clutch pedal and it wouldn't do ****. I ended up getting pissed and pumping the hell out of it super fast, and that's when the fluid finally started coming out the bleed screw.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DriveSideWays »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok thanks alot, its just i drive my car and after about 15 mins of driving the clutch starts to slip and lil and i just changed tthe clutch a week ago, but thanks ne way i just need alot of help wit this</TD></TR></TABLE> what kind of fuild should u use?
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLUE EH3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> what kind of fuild should u use?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The reservoir cap tells what fluid to use, usually any DOT3/4 brake fluid.
To answer the original question about the clutch slipping, have you properly followed clutch break-in procedures? Most clutches, after installing, require about 500 miles of stop and go driving (highway miles don't count) and you should not take the engine past 3K-4K RPM during that time.
Also did you make sure there were no oils or anything on the clutch disc or flywheel friction surface before installing? Did you resurface the flyweel, or use some sandpaper to remove any glazing on the flywheel friction surface? If not, you may have some glazing on the clutch disc or flywheel, causing it to slip.
The reservoir cap tells what fluid to use, usually any DOT3/4 brake fluid.
To answer the original question about the clutch slipping, have you properly followed clutch break-in procedures? Most clutches, after installing, require about 500 miles of stop and go driving (highway miles don't count) and you should not take the engine past 3K-4K RPM during that time.
Also did you make sure there were no oils or anything on the clutch disc or flywheel friction surface before installing? Did you resurface the flyweel, or use some sandpaper to remove any glazing on the flywheel friction surface? If not, you may have some glazing on the clutch disc or flywheel, causing it to slip.
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