I just thought I'd check & see if anybody had success at determining a torque setting for the Skunk2 Camber kit besides "as tight as you can"...

Side note: my freak'n axle was stuck solid in the hub, so I guess I'll be spending a couple extra bucks now So much for sliding the new dss axles in! One side popped right out, but the other I'm sure is going to break on the press. Anybody got an extra passenger side hub/knuckle assembly they can't live without??? I'll put new wheel bearings in so I don't care about the mileage.

 

If you have an impact gun to loosen that axle nut, the axle usually comes right out of the hub.

 

As for the bolt specs on the Skunk2 front camber kit...make sure to do the "mods" that will help to reduce the chance of the thing slipping on j00...search for the posts on that.

I usually tightened the hell out of them....

 

nope, not sure on a torque spec. Just make sure you sand down the paint, and replace the washers with star or locking washers. I even put some slight grooves on the track where the screws tighten down. I tightened mine pretty tight but didnt over do it and so far so good.

EDIT: DSS AXLES

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have an impact gun to loosen that axle nut, the axle usually comes right out of the hub.

&

DSS AXLES </TD></TR></TABLE>

the nut came right off with my impact gun, it's the axle frozen in the hub

Oh yea - the DSS axles were free from Exblo 3 sponsor...you gotta love raffles at the banquet!

 

just watch out for lots of play in the axle shaft/cv joint, especially if your car is lowered. I sent one of mine back a week after I got it because of too much play and making a THUNKing noise. Then just recently, my passenger side axle (stage 1) broke 2 weeks ago while accelerating in 4th GEAR on the highway. not launching, not banging into the next gear, but while accelerating in the torqueless wonderland of 4th gear! And of course they are giving me a hard time about "warranty" because it is like 4 weeks past the expiration date

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BudMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"as tight as you can"...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you want something more specific you should contact Skunk2 directly.

 

Would you believe Skunk2 only recommends 8-10lbs of torque. See below:

EMAIL RESPONSE FROM SKUNK2

----- Original Message -----
From: info
To: 'Jeff Goodnow'
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 5:32 PM
Subject: RE: Camber kit torque settings?


I would upgrade to grade 8 automotive bolts.
Torque 8 -10 lbs.

END RESPONSE.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BudMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would you believe Skunk2 only recommends 8-10lbs of torque.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

correct. i tighten mine to 10 ft/lbs. if you check any other 6x1mm bolt on your car, it has the same torque spec. i have yet to have any problems with mine since using the new grade 10.9 bolts/start washer/10lb torque spec/and loctite.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BudMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> my freak'n axle was stuck solid in the hub</TD></TR></TABLE>

try an air hammer. i do that at work all the time (GM **** just plain sucks to work on...) and it will work wonders. feel free to im me if you need further help

 

I watched Budman soak the axle with PB Blaster, whale on it with a 5#(8#?) sledge hammer, 2 difference air hammers, and pry with a 2' prybar. Rust owned that axle.

 

i love how even skunk says to replace the hardware.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Batoutahell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I watched Budman soak the axle with PB Blaster, whale on it with a 5#(8#?) sledge hammer, 2 difference air hammers, and pry with a 2' prybar. Rust owned that axle.</TD></TR></TABLE>


It's official - attempting to press out the axles bent the press at 9,000lbs.

New jub/knuckle - ordered on Monday

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BudMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's official - attempting to press out the axles bent the press at 9,000lbs.

New jub/knuckle - ordered on Monday </TD></TR></TABLE>

Holy crap... bent the press??? Sorry to hear about that.

I tightened the hell out of my bolts too... way beyond 10ft-lbs i'm sure.

Chris - who has new bolts/washers/etc for the skunk2 arms... and a cracked rear rotor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Chris - who has new bolts/washers/etc for the skunk2 arms... and a cracked rear rotor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I can't find any replacement grade 8 bolts that fit the threads around here I'd be glad to send a buck or two to you if you can get more I did at least add a set of star washers to the mix.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BudMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I can't find any replacement grade 8 bolts that fit the threads around here I'd be glad to send a buck or two to you if you can get more I did at least add a set of star washers to the mix.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

you find those bolts anywhere? i get them from a local hardware store. i always buy up whatever they have. my procedure is as follows:

1: install new grade 10.9 bolts/star washers, torque to 10 lb/ft
2: align car
3: upon returning home, remove each bolt and coat with loc-tite. re-torque to 10 lbs/ft.
4. at the track: when swapping wheels, i have a 10mm wrench in my lugnut box, and check tightness occasionally (i have yet to find one loose)

when time comes for another alignment:

1. align car
2. again, upon returning home i replace ALL of the bolts (8) with new ones (one by one, as to not disturb the camber setting) and loc-tite and torque them.

sounds like overkill, but at the price of about $3 every alignment, i assure myself of not having the arms slip.