all right NA heads...got a question about breaking in a high compression motor setup. I've got a 12.3-12.5:1 CR motor and I currently have 91 octane in the gas tank. What octane should I use to break in the motor? Any ideas? I was thinking of using 110 octane cuz I don't want it pinging. Planning to retard the timing as well. Any inputs is greatly appreciated. I'm currently using a stock JDM GSR OBD1 ecu...planning to get hondata later on (chipped P28). Help me out guys....TIA.

 

http://www.importbuilders.com/breakin.html

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bob-DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.importbuilders.com/breakin.html</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the link...very helpful...any other inputs? opinions?

 

are you realling going to run mid 12 compression on a stock ecu?

what did your engine builder say about breaking in?

 

stock ecu? man, your motor's not gonna know what to do. if at all, at least get a used vafc for now until you can upgrade to hondata.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecb20coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock ecu? man, your motor's not gonna know what to do. if at all, at least get a used vafc for now until you can upgrade to hondata.</TD></TR></TABLE>

good tip
i'm planning to buy a stock p28 and then chip it for hondata like in a week or so...

 

dont even consider breaking it in until you have hondata and a good base map

or a chipped ecu and a fpr

 

In your case,

Have

1) proper oil level
2) PepBoys 10w30 or ND30
3) proper coolant level. Honda Coolant or similar silicate free ****. (use distilled water. Avoid using tap water).
4) proper tranny oil level
5) proper valve lash 0.007/0.009 in/ex are magical numbers for BVTEC cams

"Pre" Break In

1) pull spark plugs and take jnjectors clips off injectors (engine cranks faster without spark plugs)
2) crank until oil pressure light goes off
3) then crank 30 secs more to get all bubbles and stuff out of the oiling system
4) re-install plugs and injector clips
5) start motor and check ignitinon timing (16 deg. is good)
6) warm up by idling car at 1800-2000 rpms for 3-5 mins
7) let idle and verifty ignition timing.
8) shut off engine and change oil and filter

Break in

1) warm up again by driving around
2) get on the son of a bitch listening for knocking or smoke etc.

Note: Use your senses and just be cautious.

I can also help you with a base map for your hondata. I've got some "tuning" maps with modified ignition tables to help prevent knock and such.

Hopes this helps.


Modified by Rocket at 9:00 PM 3/2/2004

 

good info

 

good info rocket, almost exactly what i did

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In your case,

Have

1) proper oil level
2) PepBoys 10w30 or ND30
3) proper coolant level. Honda Coolant or similar silicate free ****. (use distilled water. Avoid using tap water).
4) proper tranny oil level
5) proper valve lash 0.007/0.009 in/ex are magical numbers for BVTEC cams

"Pre" Break In

1) pull spark plugs and take jnjectors clips off injectors (engine cranks faster without spark plugs)
2) crank until oil pressure light goes off
3) then crank 30 secs more to get all bubbles and stuff out of the oiling system
4) re-install plugs and injector clips
5) start motor and check ignitinon timing (16 deg. is good)
6) warm up by idling car at 1800-2000 rpms for 3-5 mins
7) let idle and verifty ignition timing.
8) shut off engine and change oil and filter

Break in

1) warm up again by driving around
2) get on the son of a bitch listening for knocking or smoke etc.

Note: Use your senses and just be cautious.

I can also help you with a base map for your hondata. I've got some "tuning" maps with modified ignition tables to help prevent knock and such.

Hopes this helps.


Modified by Rocket at 9:00 PM 3/2/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>Nice writeup, but is step 5 really recommended for his present setup? Since he is on a stock ecu and running mid 12:1 compression, would it still be okay to run 16 BTDC timing on that 91 octane and get on the throttle hard during break-in?? Won't it detonate like hell??

 

If 16 degrees is too high then your in trouble regardless.

But yes, doing 14 degrees or so would be a bit safer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If 16 degrees is too high then your in trouble regardless.

But yes, doing 14 degrees or so would be a bit safer.</TD></TR></TABLE>



good procedure rocket!!!

same thing we do....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecb20coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock ecu? man, your motor's not gonna know what to do. if at all, at least get a used vafc for now until you can upgrade to hondata.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so i shouldn't even break in the motor with a stock ecu then? any inputs on this? which program should i run before i tune (in the meantime)??? use stock A/F map from hondata s100??? any inputs? thanks...

 

good info

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If 16 degrees is too high then your in trouble regardless.

But yes, doing 14 degrees or so would be a bit safer.</TD></TR></TABLE>The weird thing about mine was I had to run 11-12 degrees to keep it from detonating on 91....maybe it could've been my mugen spec ecu? Maybe that program I had gave it too much advance at WOT?

 

good tips

 

wow great writeup... thanks for that info too rocket... looks like i might be off to go get a friggin wideband...damnit....sheesh throw some more dinero into this pit...err... I mean passion...I hope my motor doesnt read this...she will get her feelings hurt....

hahah


Dave

 

I'll break it in for you happy just bring it to my house

 

Just "Drop the Hammer" lol

 

I too like compression but if you can't run the proper gas and timing it's very harmful to the motor and not really fun to drive a car that wants 94 octane but run it on 91 octane.

 

The "Mugen" chip uses the JDM P30 ignition map with a modified more aggressive fuel curve that ramps up faster in part throttle. How ever the ign curve is bit aggressive in the part throttle portion of the map and should be modified. I usually tone down this portion of the ign map to prevent tip in detonation.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The "Mugen" chip uses the JDM P30 ignition map with a modified more aggressive fuel curve that ramps up faster in part throttle. How ever the ign curve is bit aggressive in the part throttle portion of the map and should be modified. I usually tone down this portion of the ign map to prevent tip in detonation.</TD></TR></TABLE>I see. Good Info Rocket. Greatly appreciated

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TREVER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll break it in for you happy just bring it to my house </TD></TR></TABLE>

uh....thanks but no thanks Trever....i don't want to get her back with a melted piston

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Trooper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just "Drop the Hammer" lol </TD></TR></TABLE>

buwahahahahaha!!! LOL!!! won't that melt a piston or 2?