I have a few questions.
1: Can you run an LS crank, with LS length rods in a b16 (i know it will work in a b18)
2: If i do that, and have the block sleeved to 85 mm's what would my displacement be?
3: With the stroke how it would be, would Toda B's have to much lift, or cause any problems?

any and all thoughts are welcomed. Thank you

 

um not too sure on this but this is what i think

deck height on the b16a is smaller then on the b18's. so im thinking with out custom rods or something you will be putting the piston out of the sleeve.


again this is just my speculation not positive can some one either back me up or prove me wrong

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec95sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a few questions.
1: Can you run an LS crank, with LS length rods in a b16 (i know it will work in a b18)
2: If i do that, and have the block sleeved to 85 mm's what would my displacement be?
3: With the stroke how it would be, would Toda B's have to much lift, or cause any problems?

any and all thoughts are welcomed. Thank you</TD></TR></TABLE>

actually, i have a magazine that did just that. they installed an 89mm crank, custom rod (which allowed an oem sized piston to be used) & forged oem sized pistons (81.5mm, increasing displacement to 1859cc). the b16 block had to be notched to accomodate the additional stroke. i don't know what the r/s ratio (1.44 ish?) would be, but, i can tell you that the b16 was transformed into a small monster. in stock configuration, the b16 made 148whp & 107wtq with stock bottom end and a few bolt on's. when the 89mm crank was installed with custom rod, pistons, crane stg 2 cams, ported p30 intake manifold, upgraded valves, aem cam gears, edelbrock header, mild head porting, 68mm t/b, r/c injectors (11.5/1 c.r.) resulted in 203whp & 150.5wtq . i don't know if i would bother with this type of set up (because hard driving could possibly pulverize the bearings and internals due to a poor r/s ratio) even though it wouldn't be that expensive to build. this would be the ultimate sleeper motor. the block would read b16a, but, the dyno would be screaming out b20 vtec numbers. good luck.

 

thats kinda what i was going for was having the block and everything still look stock. but i think it seems safer to go with a b18c block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec95sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats kinda what i was going for was having the block and everything still look stock. but i think it seems safer to go with a b18c block.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep. i do have a question though. are you going to build the b18c bottom end? and if so, are you going to use forged internals or oem parts? and, do you plan on drag racing or circuit & auto-x racing? because if you have a bit of change there are other options.......ls/vtec or b17/b20 ...just a thought.

 

i dont want the complications of putting a VTEC head on a non Vtec motor. but i plan on putting an LS crank, and LS forged rods into a b18c's bottom end. with custom pistons

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec95sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a few questions.
1: Can you run an LS crank, with LS length rods in a b16 (i know it will work in a b18)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes you can, with my piston set shown below.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec95sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2: If i do that, and have the block sleeved to 85 mm's what would my displacement be?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
displacement will be 2020 cc's. my pistons are 85mm so you are in luck.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec95sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3: With the stroke how it would be, would Toda B's have to much lift, or cause any problems?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no problems at all. these pistons have reliefs that will clear cams up to 13.00 mm of lift.



kit comes complete with rings-wrist pins-locks-buttons


compression ratio is 11.5 to 1 with a b16a head unmilled and stock gasket.


dedicated valve reliefs and lots of internal milling to reduce weight. piston weighs in at a mere 255 grams! most off the shelf 85mm pistons with this dome weigh around 315g.


custom .708 lightweight tool steel wrist pin. rod must be rebushed to this from .826


custom machined buttons to support oil ring. this is how i can fit all that crank and rod in a b16a block. yes, you still retain the ls 1.54 rod ratio.

parts needed.

b16a block sleeved to 85mm. in stock.

TECH43 b16a 2.0 piston kit. in stock.

ls crank in stock.

ls rods ( rebushed to .708) in stock.

we've got these engines making appx. 230 whp on pump gas with honda intake manifolds and ecu's.

the 2.0 b16a you saw in the magazine won't live long, sleeves start to barrel out with that much stroke with such a crappy rod ratio. and 203 whp? lol...please. theres b16a's on pump gas 1.6l making that. those guys are lost. i think this kit makes a pretty mean b16a sleeper engine. complete shortblocks or piston kits available. steve@tech43.com

Modified by TECH43 RACING INC. at 11:55 AM 3/1/2004


Modified by TECH43 RACING INC. at 11:32 AM 3/24/2004

 

you could also run a gsr 3.433 crank w/ the b16 rods and a .137 raised wrist pin piston set to give you 1.54 r/s ratio then run the size bore you want... you'll prolly need to notch the block to clear the crank but the pistons wont ride over the deck w/ this setup.....

as for the 3.504 w/ 5.394 rods.... you're gonna need pistons that have the wrist pin raised .333"..... which means the wrist pin is gonna be far into the oil ring... the highest wrist pin i've ever seen was raised .250..... so i dont really see the 5.394 rods working and w/o those... you're r/s ratio would be crappy on the 3.504 crank (ls crank).... i'd just go w/ a gsr crank (3.433) to get the stroke you'll need.... and as for displacement w/ a 3.433 on 85mm sleeves...120.53 cid which is just under 2.1 liter

 

those pistons sure are pretty...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3.504 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as for the 3.504 w/ 5.394 rods.... you're gonna need pistons that have the wrist pin raised .333"..... which means the wrist pin is gonna be far into the oil ring... the highest wrist pin i've ever seen was raised .250..... so i dont really see the 5.394 rods working and w/o those... you're r/s ratio would be crappy on the 3.504 crank (ls crank)</TD></TR></TABLE>


hmm...apparently you completely missed my post.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TECH43 RACING INC. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

custom machined buttons to support oil ring. this is how i can fit all that crank and rod in a b16a block. yes, you still retain the ls 1.54 rod ratio.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

nice lookin **** there Mr. Wheaton

 

hmmm pistons pics...

right click'd and saved....

 

Nice pistons Tech43

 

thank you mr. tom.

 

now only if that piston was made in 81mm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by importboi22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">now only if that piston was made in 81mm</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Steve... looks like you should put in another order for 81.5mm pistons!!!

 

Super nice pistons.....price?


Modified by pro1342 at 11:22 AM 3/25/2004

 

81.25 and 81.5 mm pistons should be avialble!! 1.8 b16!!!

 

also could ya make pistons work with a GSR crank, for us of those who want to use the beefier GSR rods?

 

i can make 81.50 and 82.00 mm pistons for those who want to avoid sleeves. i can also set them up for gsr cranks. im for prices.

 

Tech43 I have a set of 83mm turbo strokers b16 block and Ls rod Ls crank if you need them.

 

pm'd

 

These pistons are the most innovative I have seen to date for B-series motors.

 

i noticed on the buttons that support the oil ring i was curious if this setup would last on a daily driven car?