I attended a track event at Pocono Raceway on Sunday. A speed shop had a portable dyno ... so I gave it a try. Any advice is appreciated. Sorry for the large pics.

2000 Miles on car .... with lots of track time

Mods:

DC JDM 4-1 Header
Godspeed Testpipe mated to a 18" x 2.5" section of pipe that empties into a coast fabrication straight through muffler. (empties mid-car)
Comptech Filter w/stock airbox
AEM FPR (56 psi vaccum off & plugged)
Stock Timing





Thanks

 

That looks about right, I have pretty much the same mods, except the exh and header. I had at the time of the dyno JDM header, and stock exh. made about 167 and 123 i think.

Bryan

 

It seems your numbers are rather weak, considering that you've got an aftermarket 2.5" header + basically open exhaust. Maybe you need to change the ignition timing by +2 deg... or, simply get some CAI to help the air flow. If I had H/E and only made 167HP, I would be pissed. (I dynoed at 162.7HP bone stock.

BTW, when was the oil changed? You said 2000 miles on your car, but w/ tracking was it changed often?

 

No I'm not pissed. From my research, my numbers seem about right. Especially considering that it's been heavily tracked. Yes, I have changed the oil often, using Castrol GTX - Non-synthetic.

 

Well, each car is different...

Just for perspective, I dyno'd 160whp bone stock with around 2000 miles...

With an oil change to mobil 1 syn I gained ~2-3whp and with AEM CAI, I gained ~2-3 whp. That brought my total whp to a peak of 166whp... Dyno's vary, though too...

To get an accurate idea of your gains, just compare to a baseline. Do you have a bone stock run to compare?

 

You need to tune your fuel...

Badly.

Shoot for 13.4 all the way across the board...

 

Isn't that a little rich? For N/A isn't low 13s rich "enough?". Maybe you want to be extra rich to keep motor cool, but that seems like a very high fuel pressure as well. Some guys with Toda Bs, headwork, compression, etc. are running like ~45 psi...

FB

 

Your numbers sound fairly accurate. FYI I dynoed 164/122 @ 18 deg. with the same mods except stock exhaust, stock fuel pressure, & stock intake.

 

Especially since you road race your car, a 5200rpm VTEC engagement would DEFINITELY be in your best interest.

I still don't see why Honda made the VTEC point so high on a factory R.
Probably to make people go "WOW" when VTEC kicks in.
Not many people notice the amount of power they are losing from 5200-5700.

Power in this area really helps when you're doing a 3rd gear pull against one of your friends on the street.

 

So why did they make a GSR's VTEC kick in at 4400? What was the reason in doing that?

 

i dyno'd 168 whp and 122 torque sae with dc intake/jdm header/carsound cat....very disappointed imo.

 

gsr vtec does not switch over at 4400 rpm, what you are hearing is the secondarys opening up.

 

rodney: the gs-r motor gets on the big lobe at 4400rpm as mentioned above. the Secondaries (which you hear, although I hear the switch to the big lobe in my gs-r now) occurs are 5600ish. (6000 with my uber accurate tach. lol)

I put down 163 and 120 with AEM CAI, no P/S Belt (-3hp and -2lbs with it), 18 degrees timing, carsound cat and JDM ITR 4-1. Still using the ghetto crush bent oem gs-r exhaust.

If you really want more power, especially on a tracked car, remove that PS belt. I always remove the PS belt when I do track events/lapping days and I like it.. even in 45 minute straight sessions.

I've also HEARD of ITR's gaining 6whp by removing the belt... I'm not too skeptical of that now that I've gained 3whp and 2 lbs of tq by removing it from my gs-r.

 

Ok, so which is it, 4400 or 5600 R.P.M. for VTEC on a GSR? I just did a search on the board and all I could find were people saying "I think it switches at..." or "I heard from someone say that it switches at...". Can someone clarify this once and for all. Post a link to an official site. No more opinions. Just fact.

 

Vtec in a GS-R engages at 4400rpm and the secondary intake runners open up at 5700rpm. If you search the net for specs on the car you will see that this is true.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but on an ITR (at least my indicated RPM gauge) the VTEC engages at 5,700rpm and the 2ndary intake runner opens up at 6,000 rpm.

 

No 2ndary intake runner in this manifold... vtec @ 5700 is correct for stock itr... speed, tps, and rpm dependent.

 

I always thought that was the case.


[Modified by 2001 Integra GSR, 9:54 AM 10/16/2001]

 

Get an AFC/SFC and lean that curve out in the right places and you should
pick up quite a bit of power

 

you're running way too rich over 6600 rpm. Get your A/F mixture up into the 13's and you'll make better power in VTEC land. I'm personally using a Hondata box for this, but there's lots of options out there to get this done. A simple rechipping of the stock ECU will do the trick if you don't plan on continually modifying your engine. If you do, having a flexible system like Hondata or the Apexi PowerFC is the way to go IMO.

 

Thanks for the responses so far

A few things I should add:

1. My R is strictly a Track Car
2. Reliability is a MAJOR concern of mine
3. I plan on using a Mugen N1 ECU in the future ... just too much money for me right now
4. I have no plans of further modifying my engine internals ... perhaps cam gears / CAI


A couple of questions:

1. Will the Mugen ECU help "even" my Air/Fuel mixture
2. Am I running too much fuel pressure?

sgT

Which one? V-AFC or S-AFC?




[Modified by AdamITR, 2:08 PM 10/16/2001]

 

I look at most of these dyno runs on lightly modded ITR motors and I don't understand why the numbers are so low.
I own a 98 ITR and at exactly 35,000 miles I blew my motor. The new motor now has 16,000 miles on it and it doesn't feel nowhere near as strong as my old motor.

Now lets talk about my old motor for a sec. Here were the mods: (simple bolt-ons)

Comptech Exhaust (stock cat)
Comptech Header
AEM CAI
UR Pulleys (complete set)
Mobile 1 5w-30

I was putting 179.x hp to the wheels! I felt I shouldn't have but the motor just felt kick-*** strong. I never babied the motor. I mis-shifted twice back to back with RPMs hitting 10000 and 9500 on the track. ROCK SOLID! (until I sucked up water but thats another story).
Dyno runs here:
http://www.nickdamico.com/dyno99a.jpg http://www.nickdamico.com/dyno99b.jpg

The new motor, on the otherhand is just .... BLAH .... not as punchy, doesn't have the big VTEC kick. I have babied this motor for 8000 miles and oil change every 3000 miles, synthetic oil after 10,000 miles. Motor was replaced on Jan 2000. Why such a difference? Could it be because of the difference in break in?

I don't know...... All I know is that I'm not happy.


Oh well

-Nick248

 

Oh by the way Adam, Bruce's speed shop is incredible when it comes to chasis tuning!!! They are incredible and can build obsolutely anything to perfection.

I work 2 minutes away from their shop. Actually Bruce corner weighted my car earlier this year. If you don't mind me asking, how much did they charge for the dyno run?

I'll call you later tonight.

-Nick248

 

Why not get a hondata instead of the mugen ECU? cost is similar and you get
full adjustability.
fuel pressure could be a little high. might want to lower down to 52-54psi.

SFC or AFC is up to you. I prefer the SFC myself.

 

Its funny you should mention the SFC Mr. SGT i have one i used for about 2-3 months for sale IM me if your interested AdamITR

Bryan