what rods and pistons for ls crank in gsr block?
was wondering what size rods and what type of pistons you guys with micropolished ls cranks in your gsr blocks are going with? i am worried about the r/s ratio, just want it to surpass the gsr one....thanks
enryn makes rods for the set up..... they're 5.531" which is a .137 over LS rod... enryn doesn't make them, eagle makes them to enryn specs.... then they make a matching .137 raised wrist pin piston in any bore you could imagine in any c/r you could imagine. that set up on the LS crank will yeild a 1.5789 or somthing silly r/s ratio... basically a gsr or type r's stock r/s ratio.... they also make a piston w/ a .250 raised wrist pin.... you'd have to get 5.644 rods which i'm sure eagle makes for enryn too.... the enryn pistons are made by wiseco... so they're pretty good stuff.... oh.... the .250 oversized rods will give you a 1.61 r/s ratio.... but that set ups a little crazy. check them out @ http://www.theoldone.com
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97CTR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can use ls rods, or ls length rods.
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Yup, they are both 270mm blocks...
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Yup, they are both 270mm blocks...
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Sorry to bring this thread up from the dead but I am thinking about doing this.
If the rod ratio is maintained does that mean your redline wont be lowered at all if you go with a slightly longer than LS rod with a raised pin piston?
And I heard the oil squiters get in the way too. Can you just bend them slightly?
If the rod ratio is maintained does that mean your redline wont be lowered at all if you go with a slightly longer than LS rod with a raised pin piston?
And I heard the oil squiters get in the way too. Can you just bend them slightly?
Yea, it truly isn't that big of a deal, if you've got the headwork/cams to support a high reving NA setup even the 1.54 rod ratio will be fine. If you get that back up to the B18C's 1.58:1 there's nothing wrong with that but you will need a custom rod. As for the oil squirters, if you're running forged pistons just cap them off. They really do just get in the way.
A couple more questions:
- If I go with just the LS crank in a GSR block and use aftermarket LS length rods and LS height pistons the rod ratio will be 1:54 like you said. Between the two ratios, How much RPM difference are we talking? I want the bottom end to be able to handle 9500 rpm. Is that safe with the LS 1:54 rod ratio? Or should I stick with a GSR crank if I want to rev that high?
- Im assuming because you said to cap off the oil jets that forged pistons dont require oil jets? Why is this? And wouldnt they still help some in any setup to keep things cool?
- If I go with just the LS crank in a GSR block and use aftermarket LS length rods and LS height pistons the rod ratio will be 1:54 like you said. Between the two ratios, How much RPM difference are we talking? I want the bottom end to be able to handle 9500 rpm. Is that safe with the LS 1:54 rod ratio? Or should I stick with a GSR crank if I want to rev that high?
- Im assuming because you said to cap off the oil jets that forged pistons dont require oil jets? Why is this? And wouldnt they still help some in any setup to keep things cool?
Yea, it's really up to you. We've gone to 10K+ with NA LS/CRVTEC motors and have never had a problem. I personally never even consider swapping the internals of a B18C simply for the fact that you need to find an LS crank, etc. Either way you'll be fine reving up there, 0.04:1 is a tiny tiny difference. With forged pistons you really don't need the oil squirters to keep things cool. Besides that we always pull them as they just set your rotational assembly off balance. Good Luck
Just put my balanced and micropolished LS crank into my built GSR block. It tags the oil squirters so we bent the jets slightly. It looks like its hitting the oil squirter bolts but its really the jets.
LS crank kicks ***. it weighs half a pound lighter than a GSR crank. It gives me 1.8mm longer stroke, which isn't enough to significantly alter rod ratios. And now that I have lighter and stronger rods and pistons and its all perfectly balanced, theres no reason why I cant rev 9-10k - assuming the head is built up accordingly.
LS crank kicks ***. it weighs half a pound lighter than a GSR crank. It gives me 1.8mm longer stroke, which isn't enough to significantly alter rod ratios. And now that I have lighter and stronger rods and pistons and its all perfectly balanced, theres no reason why I cant rev 9-10k - assuming the head is built up accordingly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just put my balanced and micropolished LS crank into my built GSR block. It tags the oil squirters so we bent the jets slightly. It looks like its hitting the oil squirter bolts but its really the jets.
LS crank kicks ***. it weighs half a pound lighter than a GSR crank. It gives me 1.8mm longer stroke, which isn't enough to significantly alter rod ratios. And now that I have lighter and stronger rods and pistons and its all perfectly balanced, theres no reason why I cant rev 9-10k - assuming the head is built up accordingly. </TD></TR></TABLE>
damn skippy..........
LS crank kicks ***. it weighs half a pound lighter than a GSR crank. It gives me 1.8mm longer stroke, which isn't enough to significantly alter rod ratios. And now that I have lighter and stronger rods and pistons and its all perfectly balanced, theres no reason why I cant rev 9-10k - assuming the head is built up accordingly. </TD></TR></TABLE>
damn skippy..........
reving has alot to do w/ balance. factory LS rods have oil passages, aftermarket ls rods do not, oil squirters would be a good idea simply for lubrication. spining 9-10k wouldn't be bad if the rotating assembly was well balanced, even w/ the 1.54:1.... i want to set up a long rod set when i get my ls/vtec together, cause 1.58 is that much safer and doesn't put as much stress on the sleeves, and i get to say i have a long rod. depends on the long rod set up. if you go w/ .137 longer and .137 raised wrist pin w/ the LS crank you get a 1.58:1 r/s and the wrist pin doesn't hit into the oil ring. theres way crazier set-ups though, like the .250 longer rod.... thats like a 1.62:1, but the wrist pin is in the oil ring and the piston comes w/ a short pin and caps the end of the pin to support the oil ring. then theres even crazier like the .333 set-ups, and i just dont trust either of those two. i'm going .137 over
<---always wanted to find a good spot to use that.
<---always wanted to find a good spot to use that.
Im also sorry for the thread hyjack, but
muckman, nice job. Its like youve been reading my mind on helping me do the same swap. Only problem with mine is the GSR block I bought had a spun rob bearing in # 3, which also chewed up the oil squirter, so I will need to buy another one. You also answered my question on micropolishing and balancing the crank. I think I will go a few steps further with my setup though. I have a set os p73 (USDM ITR) pistons Im putting in. I am also planning on having the rods/pistons balanced as well. Then, before i put it all together, Im having most of the bottom end parts cryo-treated.
Please keep us updated on your progress, and I would love to see some pictures. Good Luck!
muckman, nice job. Its like youve been reading my mind on helping me do the same swap. Only problem with mine is the GSR block I bought had a spun rob bearing in # 3, which also chewed up the oil squirter, so I will need to buy another one. You also answered my question on micropolishing and balancing the crank. I think I will go a few steps further with my setup though. I have a set os p73 (USDM ITR) pistons Im putting in. I am also planning on having the rods/pistons balanced as well. Then, before i put it all together, Im having most of the bottom end parts cryo-treated.
Please keep us updated on your progress, and I would love to see some pictures. Good Luck!
vtec_yosh - Thanks for the compliments. My block is now finnished but I wasnt planning on starting a thread for it because its nothing nobody hasn't already seen before. How much are you paying for the cryo-treatment?
The only update I have on the LS crank is that we measured the clearance between the counterweights and the oil squirters using feeler gauges. All but #1 had .025" or more. #1 had a tight .021" so we filed it down some to give it some more clearance. Probably was unnessecary but I wanted to have a good amount of clearance just in case.
3.504 - LS blocks dont have oil squirters.
The only update I have on the LS crank is that we measured the clearance between the counterweights and the oil squirters using feeler gauges. All but #1 had .025" or more. #1 had a tight .021" so we filed it down some to give it some more clearance. Probably was unnessecary but I wanted to have a good amount of clearance just in case.
3.504 - LS blocks dont have oil squirters.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3.504 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know, i want to install them</TD></TR></TABLE>
with forged pistons you don't.
with forged pistons you don't.
what about for oiling purposes? more oil never hurt nothin. specially considering forged rods for LS's dont have the oil gallies in them.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just put my balanced and micropolished LS crank into my built GSR block. It tags the oil squirters so we bent the jets slightly. It looks like its hitting the oil squirter bolts but its really the jets.
LS crank kicks ***. it weighs half a pound lighter than a GSR crank. It gives me 1.8mm longer stroke, which isn't enough to significantly alter rod ratios. And now that I have lighter and stronger rods and pistons and its all perfectly balanced, theres no reason why I cant rev 9-10k - assuming the head is built up accordingly. </TD></TR></TABLE>
What rods did you use?
LS crank kicks ***. it weighs half a pound lighter than a GSR crank. It gives me 1.8mm longer stroke, which isn't enough to significantly alter rod ratios. And now that I have lighter and stronger rods and pistons and its all perfectly balanced, theres no reason why I cant rev 9-10k - assuming the head is built up accordingly. </TD></TR></TABLE>
What rods did you use?
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