sup...i recently installed a new tranny....none of this im about to describe happened before. Sometimes..some parts in the front of my car clicks....and most of the time it goes away. Only clicks when im taking off from a complete stop or goin very slow when switching gears. And in 3rd,4th and 5th....when i accelerate past 2500..it shakes sometimes.....like i have bad alignment....and sometimes it doesn't do it. Does this mean i have bad axles??? I took it to honda and they said axles click only when turning and they drove it with me and said it wasn't the axles...is it jus my transmission? thanx

 

I have seen bad axles have those same or similar symptoms. Repalce both and see what happens.

 

Jack the car up and wiggle the axles, if theres some play then their probably going bad. My axles are about to go also, exactly the same symtoms: vibration at higher RPM's, clicking noises etc.

 

hey, my car does the some clicking noise. it's only when i turn the steering wheel though. it all started when i droped my car.

 

wussup..thanx for the replies...but i was jus trying to make sure. Cuz i had no signs of the symptons before my tranny install. When i did take both axles out, i took them out with extreme care. These symptoms appeared right after i did my tranny swap. I bought a new passenger side axle couple months ago...and for some reason...it always spun out grease. The dude at O'Reilly said newer axles does that sometimes cuz they pack too much grease in...so....But i don't think I need a new passenger side..since I jus got it like 2 months ago. O...also...it my steering column makes a weird low squealing noise when i turn...i dunno if that has to do with the axle problems or not. Or power steering fluid.

 

hey..GSRacer...seems like u have bad axles for sure. I had the same problem before and my car would not go in a busy intersection... embarrassing... peace

 

Is replacing axles a major pain? It looks very easy in the manual but I've heard horror stories of people having hammer the sh*t out of the axles in get them in and out. In the manual it just says to remove the knuckle assy. and pull the axle right out, and slide the new one in. Anyone have any experience with this? It just sounds too easy. My car has had some of the same symptoms that people are describing here for a while now.

 

it is that easy... just remove the lca as well... and slide the axle down and out

 

I have no problem changing my axels. The hardest thing is to loosen the axle nut after this is done it is all down hill from there. The most important thing to use is a crowbar to help slide the axle out from the trans.

 

Sounds good. Will the trans oil leak out when the axles(s) are out?

 

it won't leak unless ur doin the passenger side...for hondas. If it does leak..its small amount. There are 4 bolts u gotta remove including the axle 32inch nut. and 17inch lca nut. I bet the hardest part is the axle nut and trying to lower ur lca. I always have a problem lowerin my lca. Ruined nuts and ball joint doin it....but finally figured out a safe and easy way. peace

 

Thanks for the info guys

 

One thing i thought i might add...i just did a clutch install, and i could not for the life of me get the drivers side axle out of the hub. I just had to slide it out of the tranny and set it aside with the hub itself. Good luck. I hope it will not be that way for you.

 

Just out of curiousity, does everyone get their replacement axles from any auto parts place (Pep Boys/Kragen/etc)? If so, do they seem to be of good quality?

 

Interesting topic...

Because I JUST finished putting 2 new Rebuilt honda axles in my 95 5sp. RS.

Ive been lowered for a year and my inner joint boots failed and rusted out the Joint. If your car isnt very new... this is somewhat of a greasy job! All you need is
these:

flathead screwdriver (very strong one, but not to large... for various things)
hammer (for stubborn parts, and to hit the metal punch)
metal punch (to straighten out the Spinle nut... it has an indenture to secure it)
prybar (removing inner cv housings from inside transmission and int. shaft bearing)
pry fork (or balljoint puller)
32mm socket (and a pry pipe to give leverage... to loosen and remove spindle nut)
17mm socket and open end wrench (damper fork to LCA bolt)
14 mm socket (damper fork -> shock assembly nut)(LCA -> balljoint castle nut)
pliers (for the codder pins)
wire (for tying up parts in some cases)
any type of grease/wd-40
large mallet(for knocking the hubs back onto the splined ends)
paper towels (its a bit dirty, keep them around the car at an arms reach)

Also stuff to jack/support the car... and remove wheels.

You also might as well change the tranny fluid because some will leak out and need to be filled. Castrol 5w30 works great... three quarts is good to fill.

It is pretty straight forward work... but if you would like a detailed procedure I can give you one.

Late.

 

c-speed also has a good tutorial on this. Go to the "how to" section of their site http://www.c-speedracing.com

 

Thanks for the detailed run down on the procedure and tools needed for the job. Now the question is, do I want to do this at:
(A) My apartment--> With limited tools and angry apartment staff, or.....
(B) My girlfriend's house-->With UNLIMITED tools (including air) but also with her know-it-all jerk Dad 'helping' me.

***I need my own garage!****

 

do it at the girlfriend's house. You can deal with a know-it-all if it means you get to use a shop and good tools. I don't know what i'd do without my shop and tools. In my opinion, it is far less likely that a job will get well done when you have to scrounge for tools and work in conditions that don't support mechanical-type work. Good luck!

 

Yeah, that's the route I usually go when I do my mods/maintenance.

 

do yourself a favor and get genuin honda axles, and not some crap from part stores down the street. there is a reason the prices are cheap.

 

Yeah, I haven't had very good luck with parts store remanufactured stuff in the past, that's why I was curious what everyone recommended. Do you happen to know what the genuine Honda axles would run for both sides?

 

too darn much. My friend that gets me parts at wholesale + 10% said one new axle was about $120. So I'd say you could expect to pay like $200 each. Don't hold me to that though.

 

I just remembered something. If you can get them off relatively easily, you may want to inpect the CV joints and boots. If clicking and vibration is the symptom, you may be able to just replace the joint itself. I had the opportunity to take mine apart the other day, and it did not seem that complicated and would be relatively easy to replace. HTH.

 

grinding or rubbing sounds is a good indication