Woe Is Me -- Trials and Tribulations....
I was planning on putting on my JDM Rear LCA's today... driver side went on O.K., passenger side chose not to cooperate. Im screwed... when can I do ?
Should i cut the remaining bolt off where the lca attaches to the other side of the sub frame or should i try to drill it out?

Modified by B16B at 5:57 PM 2/28/2004
Should i cut the remaining bolt off where the lca attaches to the other side of the sub frame or should i try to drill it out?

Modified by B16B at 5:57 PM 2/28/2004
Screw you guys, I'm... going... home.

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,950
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From: lovely Raleigh, NC
I had to slip a hacksaw blade between the frame and the lca so I could cut the other end of the bolt off. It's a pita but it is better than trying to drill it out. Good luck with it.
well, i cut it out, now how do i deal with the rest of it? i.e. the cut off piece that is still in the sub-frame. Do i drill out the seized part?
Your camera's macro mode sucks. 
On a side not, is that hole you're trying to get out threaded? Not like it really matters. Looks like your only option (if you can't drill it and use an easy out) is to get a cutting torch and blast the ****** out of there. You'll ruin the threads in there so to get your new LCS to stay put you're going to end up having to use a bolt and a nut.

On a side not, is that hole you're trying to get out threaded? Not like it really matters. Looks like your only option (if you can't drill it and use an easy out) is to get a cutting torch and blast the ****** out of there. You'll ruin the threads in there so to get your new LCS to stay put you're going to end up having to use a bolt and a nut.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IslandSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your camera's macro mode sucks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
its just my hand shaking with anger... camera takes good pics.
I'm going to buy a Sawzall tomorrow, *** this hack-saw business. I'm also going to see if i can locate a torch. Im not affraid of using it and i have no problems with using a new nut and bolt as long as it is secure.
</TD></TR></TABLE>its just my hand shaking with anger... camera takes good pics.
I'm going to buy a Sawzall tomorrow, *** this hack-saw business. I'm also going to see if i can locate a torch. Im not affraid of using it and i have no problems with using a new nut and bolt as long as it is secure.
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dude DO NOT torch your sub frame
unless you have really good fabrication and welding skills do not torch it out
just be patient and drill it out
have you tried to take a punch and a hammer and knock it out
it is not threaded so it should just slide out
all i can say is, i am glad i don't live where they put salt on the roads
unless you have really good fabrication and welding skills do not torch it out
just be patient and drill it out
have you tried to take a punch and a hammer and knock it out
it is not threaded so it should just slide out
all i can say is, i am glad i don't live where they put salt on the roads
Yes, it is the threaded part that is seized into the subframe. I dont care about the LCA. I threw them out. I only care about being able to put my new lca's on. With a threaded bolt seized into the hole it makes it difficult it just use a punch to knock it through. That little nub that is visable is the threaded part.
the threaded part is built into the sub frame
the only thing you can dxo is get some PB Blaster and a propane torch to "loosten" up the bolt. then the only thing you can do is get a reversed drill bit or an E-Z out and try to get it to back out. if this does not work you will have to drill it completely out and re tap the hole.
it is going to be a bit of work, but this is what happens if you dont keep the underside of your car salt free. yes it is hard but it can be done, my grandfather lives in RI and he has NEVER had any of his cars rust. with proper maintenence your car will look like new forever.
the only thing you can dxo is get some PB Blaster and a propane torch to "loosten" up the bolt. then the only thing you can do is get a reversed drill bit or an E-Z out and try to get it to back out. if this does not work you will have to drill it completely out and re tap the hole.
it is going to be a bit of work, but this is what happens if you dont keep the underside of your car salt free. yes it is hard but it can be done, my grandfather lives in RI and he has NEVER had any of his cars rust. with proper maintenence your car will look like new forever.
how can i do that? it is recessed into that cup like thing on the one side. I'm thinking maybe break out the sawzall and cut that whole area out, then take a grider to it, mount a new bolt when the LCA is on, and then weld it on. Ghetto...yes, but when you are in my position, doing it the proper expensive way is far too cost prohibitive. Sucks to buy old honda's
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