broken bolt
#1
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broken bolt
So I am trying to remove my rear shock, and after reading through the suggested procedure for its removal, went to work. I started by trying to remove the bottom bolt that runs through the wishbone shaped bottom end of the shock, in through the control arm and back out the other shock's wishbone. Unfortunatly the bolt head quickly snapped and I have had no luck poping it out with a punch or even breaking the nut on the other side of the nut loose. Nothing seems to work. Does anyone have any suggestions?
#3
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you have the cut the nut and the rest of the bolt off
from there you can attempt to bash the rest of the siezed bolt out with a BFH and a punch
If that doesnt work...well good luck
from there you can attempt to bash the rest of the siezed bolt out with a BFH and a punch
If that doesnt work...well good luck
#4
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Re: broken bolt (ak_civic)
Its time to whip out the chain saw and the torch!!! lol. Only thing i could think of would be to try and drill it out or cut off the other end. Not sure how that will turn out but good luck with it.
#5
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Re: broken bolt (ak_civic)
yeah I think that I am going to try to attempt to sawzall the nut off and then pound the bitch out. well see how well this works out...thanks for the help
#6
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Re: broken bolt (ak_civic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ak_civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah I think that I am going to try to attempt to sawzall the nut off and then pound the bitch out. well see how well this works out...thanks for the help</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats your best option, then you can just get a new bolt and a nut/washer to put back on it.
thats your best option, then you can just get a new bolt and a nut/washer to put back on it.
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Re: broken bolt (92ehatch)
I had the EXACT SAME problem, here's what I did:
Use a grinder to grind off as much of the bolt as you can from the other end of the damper fork (where the end of the bolt isn't broken).
Use an air hammer to ram the ****'ing **** out of the bolt. it WILL move.
Before that I tried using a sledgehammer and NOTHING. Air tools FTW
Use a grinder to grind off as much of the bolt as you can from the other end of the damper fork (where the end of the bolt isn't broken).
Use an air hammer to ram the ****'ing **** out of the bolt. it WILL move.
Before that I tried using a sledgehammer and NOTHING. Air tools FTW
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#8
Re: broken bolt (ak_civic)
get a bolt extractor kit, it's simply a set of reverse thread drill bits and and a set of extractors, simply wedges that you tap into the drilled hole and put a socket wrench on it. If you get them in deep enough you can torque em pretty tight. They sell them at sears but don't buy craftsman ones, i suggest harbor freight, their cheap and come with no warranty, craftsman ones are really expensive and they wont replace them if they break, which they break all the time.
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Re: broken bolt (Honda'sareslow)
ive had this problem on my old four runner, used that and it broooke. but yeah i sawzalled the bolt almost all the way, now i just gotta grind it cleean and pound it out with a punch...lack of air chizzle/hammer...owell more work for me! found another nice suprise though, blown shock, with my honda its like one thing after the next. thanks again for the help!
#11
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Re: broken bolt (ak_civic)
this bolt is still being a pain in my ***...we've gridned the nut on the shock all the way down. I guess the bolt is seized in the metal shaft inside the rubber **** around it...air chizzle time!
#12
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Re: broken bolt (Honda'sareslow)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda’sareslow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a bolt extractor kit, it's simply a set of reverse thread drill bits and and a set of extractors, simply wedges that you tap into the drilled hole and put a socket wrench on it. If you get them in deep enough you can torque em pretty tight. They sell them at sears but don't buy craftsman ones, i suggest harbor freight, their cheap and come with no warranty, craftsman ones are really expensive and they wont replace them if they break, which they break all the time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That will never ever work with a siezed bolt like this...
if the BFH didnt work, the air tools might
if it doesnt your only option will be to cut the bushing out, replacing with a new one (press) or change lcas
That will never ever work with a siezed bolt like this...
if the BFH didnt work, the air tools might
if it doesnt your only option will be to cut the bushing out, replacing with a new one (press) or change lcas
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Re: broken bolt (pdiggitydogg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That will never ever work with a siezed bolt like this...
if the BFH didnt work, the air tools might
if it doesnt your only option will be to cut the bushing out, replacing with a new one (press) or change lcas</TD></TR></TABLE>
That will never ever work with a siezed bolt like this...
if the BFH didnt work, the air tools might
if it doesnt your only option will be to cut the bushing out, replacing with a new one (press) or change lcas</TD></TR></TABLE>
#14
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Re: broken bolt (ak_civic)
well day three of tring to get one ******* stubbron bolt out...got an air hammer w/ a punch bit....nothin budges. I've tried everything, from BFH with a BFP, bolt loosing shiat, air hammers...nothing. Now I am about to start thinking about a control arm for the one shady as hell junk yard in my area...effing alaska or trying my other option of taking the whole lower unit apart. I hope by doing this i can put that nasty little mfer into a vise. Im kinda starting to run out of ideas and defanitly do not feel like going to that nasty nasty nasty junk yard (I cannot stress how bad it is, think meth heads of alaska meeting all the pos buildings, cars, tractors, and whatever else they hav...its bad, and waaay overpriced) , so does anyone have another suggestions that have not been covered?
#15
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Oxyacetaline cutting torch. Melt that ****** effer out of there! Just be careful of the controll arm. Had the same problem on my car. When all else fails the blow torch always comes through. BTW plane on replacing any bushings in the imediate area.
#16
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got it out after 4 days of pounding on that bitch. we used everything, heat, air, and a BFH. Turns out I should of just pulled the lca and shock out then attempt it. we sawzalled a hair of the bushing to seperate the shock from the lca. then took a big block of alumiumn?? (cant spell worth a damn) and drilled a hole it. then simply took the BFH and a BFP and went to town. Thanks for the help and advice.
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Re: broken bolt (ak_civic)
my buddy had the same problem, you need to get a spring tool that will take the tension off the spring/shock allowing the bolt to pull through. WD-40 it up 2
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