I want to buy an NSX in the next 5-12 month and I try to learn most technical infos before I deceide to buy. I did some search and read about the pre 97 are somewhat better for f/i cause they are obd1 and have no cable throttle body.

Damn, my dream is still a white 97up 6-speed Targa.

If I go ahead and mod my NSX I will run a HALTECH e6x standalone ECU, so the only problem for an standalone is this cable throttlebody, right? I mean if I tune this baby n/a or f/i I want and need a standalone for serious tuning, I want to do it right in first time. I can only run Haltech, cause my tuner is very known with this system, so it is best for me. I have a Haltech in my ITR too, and a standalone is the only way to go for the best tuning.

In this case it does not matter if it is pre 97 or 97 up, right? I have to use a throttle body of pre 97, right?

I think way more than 140bhp per litre displacement is not possible to stay safe for a weekend car. That would be about 440 bhp n/a, that sounds good, but I never get the tourque of turbo.

I don't want a Supercharger, a f/i system has to have an intercooler, amen

The NSX has 10:1 cr, right? Where to get lower cr pistons? The rods are good enough to make 500whp+?

n/a is way expensiver than turbo, I know this, but if there are affordable n/a parts vailable I may built an n/a beast, but damn, 8000usd for a TODA individual tb? LOOOL, I better buy an Turbo kit for that amount.

I would love to get an white NSX-T in Europe anywhere. Then I will mount some Volk te37 or ce28n, maybe work emotion wheels.

But before I buy an NSX I should know which model is best for tuning n/a or f/i....or does'nt it matter if I go with standalone?

let me know, thanks

 

As I am not toally sure what your horsepower goals are I will unload some of my geekery on you.

A supercharger shouldn't be ruled out. The more linear power delivery of a blower will ensure the charachtersitics of your car will not be adversely affected. The NSX's smooth power delivery is very nice, no reason to screw that up. If you wish to intercool a blower you may, they call it a procharger.

If it's that sudden adrenal rush of power you crave, I suggest getting Maximum Boost, by Corky Bell. Corky has been a friend of the families for awhile and is responsible for my autophile behavior. His book actually touches base on his TT NSX build-up and is an excellent book for those interested in FI.

As far as the Haltech goes, I love them. i wouldn't use anything else. I've used the Haltech E6K in the last two of my projects.

With the higher compression nature of the NSX, it isn't imperative that you get lower CR pistons. You must, however, run a limited amount of boost. If you crave more boost, head gaskets that lower your compression ratio are easily machined if not readily available. You might also look into methanol injection as a way of keeping detonation in check at higher boost levels.

As for OBD1 being better for boost, no, it may make things more simplified but there is no major reason to avoid an OBD2 car. As far as the NSX is concerned, it may take a black box or something similar to fool the car so it's stops throwing codes but you are better off consulting the real NSXperts at http://www.nsxprime.com , I know there at least a handful of turbo and blower guys running around over there.

Hope this in some way helps.

 

There are a couple hundred NSXs running around with Comptech superchargers, which is a direct bolt-on mod. Those numbers have resulted in most of the bugs getting worked out on them, so they have some reliability to them. This is a proven modification, and is available for the 3.0-liter NA1 as well as the 3.2-liter NA2.

OTOH, every turbocharged NSX is a custom installation. You can count on having to work out all your problems yourself, and there will be plenty. There are no bolt-on "kits".

There's also nitrous, but that has some significant risks to it.

If you go some route other than forced induction, you will end up either with a lot less horsepower, or spending a lot more money.

Of course, there is another legitimate question you should be asking yourself first - how do you know that you even need more horsepower if you don't even have the car yet? (The answer: You don't. And it probably doesn't need it.)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austrian type-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pre 97 are somewhat better for f/i cause they are obd1 and have no cable throttle body.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's actually 95+ NSXs that have throttle-by-wire, as well as OBDII. 97+ are 3.2L OBDII. There have been some recent posts about FI and OBDII on NSX Prime's FI forum. Be sure to take a look...

NSX Tech / Gerry Johnson:
NSX Prime: OBDII standalone
Gerry's OBDII standalone on customer's car
Specs on Gerry's car

PaynNSX / Devin Pearce:
NSX Prime: OBDII to OBDI conversion
http://www.payntechnologies.co....html

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The NSX has 10:1 cr, right? Where to get lower cr pistons? The rods are good enough to make 500whp+?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Compression ratio is 10.2:1. Several FI NSXs are running 9.5:1 JE pistons. From what I've read, the titanium connecting rods hold up fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> end up either with a lot less horsepower, or spending a lot more money.

Of course, there is another legitimate question you should be asking yourself first - how do you know that you even need more horsepower if you don't even have the car yet? (The answer: You don't. And it probably doesn't need it.)
</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, I have an 400whp ITR, and the NSX is heavier than the ITR, so I need more hp, I don't want to drive an slower car than I have now

Thanks for all your inputs

 

I doubt you have much left stock to have a 430 BHP ITR with its high comp ratio. 99.99% of any integra with a high bhp are LS or GSR with 9:1 compression with a major turbo. My Greddy 18G turbo GSR w/ 9.8:1 comp ratio which ran 12's, had only 240 whp or 270 @ the flywheel. 10psi of boost.

 

yes, thats right, I have rods, pistons, tubular manifold, hybrid turbo, haltech e6k, 720cc injecotrs, blablabla, the list is long

 

I have over 500RWHP on my NSX. You will spend a lot of money doing it. You have to work the engine with anything over approx 400RWHP.

 

I wonder how reliable that FI'd 400rwhp would be on a road race setup? Hayashi seems to have gotten his CTSC fairly reliable but that's seemingly after A LOT of tweaking to the original setup.

I think in order for me (maybe a few others too?) to go FI, the system really has to be proven damn near indestructible in a road race environment.

 

Mine is pretty reliable. I have not run it on a race course yet. I have run a 10.56 in the 1/4 though.

 

Yeah, I'd imagine on a road race set-up heat soak would be a major issue on a car not designed for FI.

I'd probably go with a methanol injection kit with intercooler NO2 spray to keep temperatures in check.

 

Is there a simpler way to dissapate the heat? Sounds complicated and labor intensive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ponyboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there a simpler way to dissapate the heat? Sounds complicated and labor intensive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, much like any FI set-up, heat wrap is your friend. If you can keep a majority of the heat in the exhaust path then you are off to a good start. Silicon hoses and hard pipes are also beneficial.

Aluminum radiators with Red Line water wetter is also a nice touch.

Other than that, Methanol kits aren't very hard to install and also aren't very expensive. AFAIK, the intercooler NO2 spray kits are also pretty affordable.