Which rear sway bar size?
I was just wondering on a 97' R what rear sway bar has had the best results. I've seen 24mm, 26mm. Which size and brand has made the greatest inmprovement? Or which do you have and why? I for some reason don't have one on my R at all. So I don't even know what it is like to have a rear sway on my R. I bought it and realized it was missing after the fact. Still handles well I have just add the rear jdm strut bar and it helps.
So thanks for any info you guys can provide for me...
So thanks for any info you guys can provide for me...
You should put a sway bar back on the car - it will improve handling and reduce understeer tendency.
The thicker the rear bar - the more understeer reduction you will get.
The R is tuned to be a mild understeer-er from the factory. Adding a thicker-than-OEM bar will make the car more neutral.
If it's just a daily driver - I would stick with an OEM bar.
The thicker the rear bar - the more understeer reduction you will get.
The R is tuned to be a mild understeer-er from the factory. Adding a thicker-than-OEM bar will make the car more neutral.
If it's just a daily driver - I would stick with an OEM bar.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Big Phat R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It should be the same.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
unless i'm a fucktard.... JDM is 23mm USDM is 22.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
unless i'm a fucktard.... JDM is 23mm USDM is 22.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
unless i'm a fucktard.... JDM is 23mm USDM is 22.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you know what I think about you being a fucktard
and you are right.
unless i'm a fucktard.... JDM is 23mm USDM is 22.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you know what I think about you being a fucktard
and you are right.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by swtxaznrac3r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">US ITR's came with rear sway bars?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow.
Wow.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by swtxaznrac3r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">US ITR's came with rear sway bars?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hope you're kidding.
I'd get a OEM replacement bar. Strange why it didn't come with a bar... And just to be sure, you are talking about the bar that is on the underside of the car, not the trunk?
Hope you're kidding.
I'd get a OEM replacement bar. Strange why it didn't come with a bar... And just to be sure, you are talking about the bar that is on the underside of the car, not the trunk?
there is no rear sway bar there is a tie bar of course but no sway. I just installed the strut tower bar in the rear trunk last night.
Is it a theft recovery or something? Anyway, stick with OEM. If you want, you can switch out the front sway for an LS, which will "de-understeer" you car a bit more.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by #26Type-R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm just curious but why would I want to de-understeer my car>? And why the Ls one?</TD></TR></TABLE>
*SIGH*.
Well, if you ever decide to use your car for its intended purpose (racing that is something other than drag racing) you will quickly learn that understeer is annoying. A car that has a rear end that will rotate will vastly help handling. It also prevents the front tires from overheating/wearing prematurely in race conditions.
If you ever see a car's handling referred to as "loose", it means it oversteers. This is nice in an autocross car.
Manufacturers dial in loads of understeer so clueless drivers (i.e. 99% of drivers on the road) won't spin their cars into oblivion during sudden evasive maneuvers.
The fact that the ITR has a LOT less understeer than most FWD cars is the reason that so many gung-ho young stunnas would drive beyond their abilities in the twisties, get spooked mid-corner, lift/brake and then spin off into oblivion (just like those other clueless drivers).
Hope this helps.
*SIGH*.
Well, if you ever decide to use your car for its intended purpose (racing that is something other than drag racing) you will quickly learn that understeer is annoying. A car that has a rear end that will rotate will vastly help handling. It also prevents the front tires from overheating/wearing prematurely in race conditions.
If you ever see a car's handling referred to as "loose", it means it oversteers. This is nice in an autocross car.
Manufacturers dial in loads of understeer so clueless drivers (i.e. 99% of drivers on the road) won't spin their cars into oblivion during sudden evasive maneuvers.
The fact that the ITR has a LOT less understeer than most FWD cars is the reason that so many gung-ho young stunnas would drive beyond their abilities in the twisties, get spooked mid-corner, lift/brake and then spin off into oblivion (just like those other clueless drivers).
Hope this helps.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gamby »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
*SIGH*.
Well, if you ever decide to use your car for its intended purpose (racing that is something other than drag racing) you will quickly learn that understeer is annoying. A car that has a rear end that will rotate will vastly help handling. It also prevents the front tires from overheating/wearing prematurely in race conditions.
If you ever see a car's handling referred to as "loose", it means it oversteers. This is nice in an autocross car.
Manufacturers dial in loads of understeer so clueless drivers (i.e. 99% of drivers on the road) won't spin their cars into oblivion during sudden evasive maneuvers.
The fact that the ITR has a LOT less understeer than most FWD cars is the reason that so many gung-ho young stunnas would drive beyond their abilities in the twisties, get spooked mid-corner, lift/brake and then spin off into oblivion (just like those other clueless drivers).
Hope this helps. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought you mostly want a neutral car and favoring some oversteer/understeer is driver preference.
*SIGH*.
Well, if you ever decide to use your car for its intended purpose (racing that is something other than drag racing) you will quickly learn that understeer is annoying. A car that has a rear end that will rotate will vastly help handling. It also prevents the front tires from overheating/wearing prematurely in race conditions.
If you ever see a car's handling referred to as "loose", it means it oversteers. This is nice in an autocross car.
Manufacturers dial in loads of understeer so clueless drivers (i.e. 99% of drivers on the road) won't spin their cars into oblivion during sudden evasive maneuvers.
The fact that the ITR has a LOT less understeer than most FWD cars is the reason that so many gung-ho young stunnas would drive beyond their abilities in the twisties, get spooked mid-corner, lift/brake and then spin off into oblivion (just like those other clueless drivers).
Hope this helps. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought you mostly want a neutral car and favoring some oversteer/understeer is driver preference.
I would put a stock one on.
I *think* I know what I'm doing driving wise, but I still want some understear on the street just in case I push it a little too hard, or in case I'm not paying 100% attention. Therefore, I'm not adding a bigger one. But without one at all, you're losing a lot of handling performance.
I *think* I know what I'm doing driving wise, but I still want some understear on the street just in case I push it a little too hard, or in case I'm not paying 100% attention. Therefore, I'm not adding a bigger one. But without one at all, you're losing a lot of handling performance.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jond »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would put a stock one on.
I *think* I know what I'm doing driving wise, but I still want some understear on the street just in case I push it a little too hard, or in case I'm not paying 100% attention. Therefore, I'm not adding a bigger one. But without one at all, you're losing a lot of handling performance.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i drove without front strut bar.. and really.. i coudln't tell a difference worth.. i didn't push the car much or anything, but was suprised.. i thoguht it would make a world of difference without strut bar.
I *think* I know what I'm doing driving wise, but I still want some understear on the street just in case I push it a little too hard, or in case I'm not paying 100% attention. Therefore, I'm not adding a bigger one. But without one at all, you're losing a lot of handling performance.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i drove without front strut bar.. and really.. i coudln't tell a difference worth.. i didn't push the car much or anything, but was suprised.. i thoguht it would make a world of difference without strut bar.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by #26Type-R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm just curious but why would I want to de-understeer my car>? And why the Ls one?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have to ask this question, stick with just the US OEM bar.
Seriously.
No, I mean it.
If you have to ask this question, stick with just the US OEM bar.
Seriously.
No, I mean it.
On the serious discussion of swapping front sway bars, Jamie (Cortez) suggested an RS front bar for increased oversteer/decreased understeer. Would the LS be the same design/diameter? If it is, I have a buddy with an LS, I could probably borrow his to try it out. After VIR, I definitely need to mess with something, I was getting some understeer, especially in T1, T2. So far that's the only thing I'm not liking about the B6s...
And Kyle, any news on what the hell happened to your clutch?
And Kyle, any news on what the hell happened to your clutch?
What a thread... holy cow.
US - 22mm
JDM - 23mm
Mugen makes 24 and 26mm
I can't believe what I'm reading - no sway bars, sway bars being called strut bars????? You guys drunk already?
US - 22mm
JDM - 23mm
Mugen makes 24 and 26mm
I can't believe what I'm reading - no sway bars, sway bars being called strut bars????? You guys drunk already?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What a thread... holy cow.
US - 22mm
JDM - 23mm
Mugen makes 24 and 26mm
I can't believe what I'm reading - no sway bars, sway bars being called strut bars????? You guys drunk already?</TD></TR></TABLE>
hey Chris it is Friday... maybe they got loaded early.
US - 22mm
JDM - 23mm
Mugen makes 24 and 26mm
I can't believe what I'm reading - no sway bars, sway bars being called strut bars????? You guys drunk already?</TD></TR></TABLE>
hey Chris it is Friday... maybe they got loaded early.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
hey Chris it is Friday... maybe they got loaded early.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Robert, this post was from Yesterday......
Now who's been hittin the secret sauce a little early? H'mmm.
hey Chris it is Friday... maybe they got loaded early.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Robert, this post was from Yesterday......
Now who's been hittin the secret sauce a little early? H'mmm.
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