Has anyone done this? Me and my bro want to do this on his g/f's 96 V6 before we ride down for Spring Break.

Thanks!

 

if you have not done one, that is not the car you want to learn on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bill-71SS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have not done one, that is not the car you want to learn on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My bro has done his 95 Accord LX (f22) and I've done my 98 GSR. Why do you say that? The shop wants $800+ here for the change

 

ur in luck. I have. what is ur question?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by david90 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ur in luck. I have. what is ur question?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for responding. I'm hearing this is not the typical timing belt change, which is why shops want $800+ to do the job. I basically would like to know what tools I'll need (besides the normal ones) and why it's more complicated than doing an F22 or B18C1?

Thanks again!!

 

wow...i took mine to a honda dealership -- got it serviced, replaced timing belt water pump blah blah -- $540 (Nor. Cal)

 

if you have a pully wrench it'll make the job easier. if not a 19mm socket on a 1/2" breaker bar will do the work since the engine rotates clockwise and letting it whack on a LCA will loosen the pulley bolt when tap starting the engine. the rest is just R&R. cost me about $130(OEM Honda belt=$65 , OEM water pump $55)
its the same as changing one on a 4cyl but with a tighter situation
BTW the lower timing cover was a b!tch to put back on

 

I'm not sure why it is more complicated than f22 or b. I don't think it is. I think it is easier. f22 seems to have more components.

As for tools, just basic metric socket 10-19mm, wrenches (stubby and long ones), 1/4 and 3/4 ratchet. 1/4 is important b/c of small working space. The only special tools that i can remember needing was the crank pulley locker tool. U can buy them or make one urself. ur pulley has a hex groove that looks like a nut. The size is 50mm (from outside). If u want to make the pulley locker, buy 2 50mm nuts and weld them together (stack them). Then put an adjustable wrench on the welded nuts and there u have it. Then just put the ur homemade locker into the crank pulley hex groove with the adjustable on and torque the crank pulley bolt off. The adjustable wrench will catch on to the chassis and stops the crank from moving.

 

Is there anyway tap starting the car can ruin the motor? We have tried 2 impact guns on this bitch since yesterday and can't get the f**kin' bolt removed.

So, is tap starting the motor the last resort? Why not just let it rest on the ground (towards front bumper) instead of the LCA??

NEVERMIND: On the 2nd tap the bolt spun loose and dropped to the ground


Modified by Hybrid93Hatch at 3:46 PM 3/4/2004

 

just take it to the dealership...got mine done with water pump and everything $600 out the door

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8krpm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just take it to the dealership...got mine done with water pump and everything $600 out the door</TD></TR></TABLE>

Uhhhhhhh, about done now

Here I come daytona

 

The timing belt and water pump have been changed.

After switching the t-belt / w-pump he started the car with out the crank pulley. The motor was making a whine like a s/c or bad power steering pump. The noise is 100% when the car is ON. Louder as the car accelerates. The noise seemed to be coming from the crank area. Any ideas?