im planning on buying new clutch kit for my 88 hf w/ b16a cable trans.
what do i need to know? and i have a couple of question

1. what are 4 ***** 6 ***** ect...?

2. what difference is it if its a 4puck or a 6puck ect...?

3. what do they mean by stage 1, stage 2 and state 3 clutch?

4. what do they mean by xxxlbs???

5. should i replace my flywheel also when changing the clutch?

6. how should i go about and changing the flywheel(which ones are good)?

search around and found out that act clutches seems to be htech favorite clutch.

7. im planning on boosting in the future. what brand and what would you guys recomend. ?

thanks for your time guys. sorry if the post was too much. ..

 

well? anyone wanna shed some light on this topic?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ironchef25 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im planning on buying new clutch kit for my 88 hf w/ b16a cable trans.
what do i need to know? and i have a couple of question

1. what are 4 ***** 6 ***** ect...?

BTW, its Puck...difference in the number of pads on the clutch surface (4 or 6 pads=4 or 6 pucks)

2. what difference is it if its a 4puck or a 6puck ect...?

more pads=more grab, just like having more fingers , so to speak.

3. what do they mean by stage 1, stage 2 and state 3 clutch?

Stage is how one certain manufacturer differentiate their product to the next, just like puck. I think Clutchmasters uses the term stage.

4. what do they mean by xxxlbs???

Could mean anything, but talking about clutch lbs...I'd guess clamping force measured in lbs...

5. should i replace my flywheel also when changing the clutch?
Only when it's damaged, but not necessarily. They can be resurfaced to some extent.

6. how should i go about and changing the flywheel(which ones are good)?

ACT, Toda, Spoon, Clutchmasters, Exedy...these are just the top brands that i can think of..they all work pretty much the same with varying weight.

search around and found out that act clutches seems to be htech favorite clutch.

7. im planning on boosting in the future. what brand and what would you guys recomend. ?

that really doesnt tell me anything...how much boost? A friend of mine has a stock D16 motor w/ turbo, using oem stock clutch and works fine.

thanks for your time guys. sorry if the post was too much. .. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

thans a lot ef_lsvtec. you realy helped me out..
oh as for boosting just maybe 7-9 psi i know no more that 10

 

so having more puck means better grip right? is that gonna make my clutch pedal stiff. cause i kinna like the way my clutch feels right now. its nice and soft.

do you guys know any website that has clutch kit for the b16crx?

 

I'm running an ACT Heavy Duty Street Strip in my rex and I love it! I guess I'll see how it holds up once I get it boosted Just some food for thought, my buddy has a built H22 making 367WHP that he runs an ACT Extreme Street Strip on...we beat the **** out of it all last summer and when we took it apart this winter the clutch looked almost brand new. ACT

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ironchef25 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so having more puck means better grip right? is that gonna make my clutch pedal stiff. cause i kinna like the way my clutch feels right now. its nice and soft.

do you guys know any website that has clutch kit for the b16crx?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Having a puck clutch won't change the pedal pressure of the cluth at all the only thing that affects that is the pressure plate. A puck clutch will wear a bit faster than a full face disc will. If your doing just low boost levels on the B16 then I would reccomend using the ACT AI3-XTSS or the AI2-XTSS depending on which flywheel you have on your B16

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96-EJ6 B18C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Having a puck clutch won't change the pedal pressure of the cluth at all the only thing that affects that is the pressure plate. A puck clutch will wear a bit faster than a full face disc will. If your doing just low boost levels on the B16 then I would reccomend using the ACT AI3-XTSS or the AI2-XTSS depending on which flywheel you have on your B16 </TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmmm. what about those those unsprung and sprung.? what do they mean by that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ironchef25 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hmmmm. what about those those unsprung and sprung.? what do they mean by that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

A sprung disc is reccomended for street use because it doesnt have as harsh of an engagement as a unsprung disc would. The clutch that I reccomended has a full face sprung disc which will be plenty sticky for what it sounds like your going to be doing. An unsprung disc is hard to drive smoothly in traffic, and puts unneeded stress on the rest of the drivetrain. Basically the way that works is there are springs in the disc that absorb some of the shock when the clutch is suddenly engaged. Even with the full face sprung disc I can scratch 4th with a stock Si motor! And I have managed to break both of my torque mounts.

 

Hit up fellow HT member "MrHeelToe", he sells custom clutches at a great price, send him a PM and tell him I referred you!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96-EJ6 B18C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

A sprung disc is reccomended for street use because it doesnt have as harsh of an engagement as a unsprung disc would. The clutch that I reccomended has a full face sprung disc which will be plenty sticky for what it sounds like your going to be doing. An unsprung disc is hard to drive smoothly in traffic, and puts unneeded stress on the rest of the drivetrain. Basically the way that works is there are springs in the disc that absorb some of the shock when the clutch is suddenly engaged. Even with the full face sprung disc I can scratch 4th with a stock Si motor! And I have managed to break both of my torque mounts. </TD></TR></TABLE>

A Cerametalic (PUCK) style clutch chatters in traffic too. Be prepared for issues that pop up with people who like to pop clutches. They engage far more harsh than an organic clutch. If you get an unsprung disk expect the trans and axels to live a much shorter life.

OH, and you need to know exactly what transmission you have. A Y-1 for example takes a 90-91 integra clutch, P Plate and pilot bearing but a 92-93 Throwout bearing ( I know because I have one). S-1 is different. So it maters a great deal.

 

ok when i do buy the act clutch kit.from what vehicle should i get it..
i have a jdm b16a with s1 trany. (i think but not sure that my engine came from a jdm 91 teg. )

 

ok i was looking at clutches on this website and i was wondering what do they mean by lbs??? theres 12.5lb and 8.8 lb?? and what do they mean by torque sorry guys if im being bothersome. i just want to know more and research before getting one..
http://www.clutchcityonline.co...a.htm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EL Vap133 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hit up fellow HT member "MrHeelToe", he sells custom clutches at a great price, send him a PM and tell him I referred you! </TD></TR></TABLE>

He can also answer those questions you have and give you the exact clutch you need for your set-up...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ironchef25 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i was looking at clutches on this website and i was wondering what do they mean by lbs??? theres 12.5lb and 8.8 lb?? and what do they mean by torque sorry guys if im being bothersome. i just want to know more and research before getting one..
http://www.clutchcityonline.co...a.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those look like flywheel weights. Look in my above post for the ACT part numbers those are for 90-91 and 92-93 Integra.

 

search......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1.6i-16zc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">search......</TD></TR></TABLE>

i did. result came out didnt helped me...

 

Pucked clutches are **** the idea is to have more surface area on a clutch which = more grip, pucked clutches have useless gaps which dont to anything. i speak from experience since i had a centerforce clutch that didnt even last 20k it was the dual friction 8 puck one. now i have a factory clutch which grips alot better then the cneterforce and going with bully in the summer

 

what year is your b16 tranny is your main concern

 

i dont know. im not sure. all i know is it came from a jdm teg(not sure the year). b16a with s1 trany