Well over the past few months I have been planning on doing a very nice 2.0liter build up. CP pistons, Benson block, Cunningham rods, Ported head, etc. I wanted to make some good numbers and have a unique and fast all motor ITR. I'm making good money so if I had enough patient it was well within my grasp. In fact I already have my 84.5mm CP pistons and my RM valvetrain is on the way.

However this all changed this past weekend when my friend came down in his B18B turbo hatchback boosting just 10lbs on the stock block. I then realized that my all motor build was just so I could make more power and would never get close to what a basic turbo kit could do on a stock B18B. It made me realize once again that I didn't buy the ITR to be a drag car, I guess being out of auto-x for a while made me forget its true purpose.

Here is my new plan.

Sell my CP pistons and buy some overbore JDM ITR slugs and rings. Use stock rods and just have ARP rod bolts installed and maybe get them cryo treated just for a little extra piece of mind. I'll go ahead and keep my valvetrain just because its a nice setup. I'm also going to forget about porting the head and save myself another $850.

The new goal: To have a nice reliable R that can still make decent power for what I'm going to use it for (track events and auto-x). With a good header and my hondata setup I'm sure I could be pretty content with what my Skunk II stage one cams can offer.

The reasons I changed my mind:

1. This would be my first build. If I mess up on my 2.0liter setup I might as well toss 4k down the drain.
2. My finances are good, but even so I would have to wait twice as long on a 2liter setup. Thats a few more months of track time vs saving for internals.
3. I can use the extra money for track events and auto-x. I'll work on improving the driver before the engine.
4. If I want a fast drag car I'll build up an LS hatch.

I'm not saying going 2.0 liter is dumb, just not the right path for me right now. Am I stupid for doing this? Any input is welcome.

 

Stock motor + track time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stock motor + track time </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's the plan. I gotta show you guys that I can roll you without 2.0liter power.

 

I too was planning a "power move" for my motor after my friend got a turbo ITR. After his car hasnt been running for about 4 months(maybe more) I figured its not really worth it all anyway. I want reliability over power any day of the week. I am basically in the same boat as you with the whole "need power, but dont want to regret it next fall and thousands of dollars later".. I think its good that you second guessed yourself, and the milder the setup, the more reliable it is. I think you should do the header/hondata/cam thing for now, and see how you feel about it in a few months.****, you might even want to sell it then (or not).

 

I agree with your decision. First off, your R is the fastest mostly stock R I have seen quarter miles wise. With your plans for it, even though they are pretty mild, your car will haul *** with you driving. Im pretty sure you will be happy with 11 second all motor times in the R.

 

Personally I would leave the engine alone, and have fun at the track. When the time comes, and you are ready to build, go all out with the 2.0 L setup

 

Yes, leave the high power 2.0 liter motors for the "real men" .
J/K.
Going conservative is not a bad idea. That's why there are 3 stages of Skunk cams; everybody has different goals. Whatever works for you.

 

You don't need a 2.0L to go really fast.

I like your new plan

 

I like your plan.

The ITR is plenty fast enough at autox and at the track... and with some seat time, you'll be amazed at how fast an almost-stock ITR can be.

Chris - who knows many cars are much faster and more capable.... but its pretty damned good considering price, etc.

 

I'm pretty much stock (not by choice) but I'm really lookinh forward to seat time and lots of trial and error time for my R in the near future

 

Good plan. Save your money for that turbo kit you'll yearn for in a year or so of being passed at the track by STI's.

 

A 220-250whp allmotor car will pretty much smoke a 300whp boosted car... the thing about boost is that it takes a second to come on between shifts again... and the added heat makes it very difficult to have it reliable on track.

I'm still planning on boosting my itr. But 2L+ allmotor is the only way to go! (Good thing I have a hatch, eh? )

 

I can't agree with you more.

Relatively stock ITR = Lots of fun.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A 220-250whp allmotor car will pretty much smoke a 300whp boosted car... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I strongly disagree. With the proper sized turbo, the FI setup has LOADS more torque. And boost lag between shifts isn't that big of a deal if you shift fast enough.

Got to agree with your point about heat, but with a good oil cooler and some vents you're pretty much good to go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr Pooface &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I strongly disagree. With the proper sized turbo, the FI setup has LOADS more torque. And boost lag between shifts isn't that big of a deal if you shift fast enough.

Got to agree with your point about heat, but with a good oil cooler and some vents you're pretty much good to go.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Bah, your point of view is skewed b/c of the ATS final drive.....

I agree though, a small quick spooling turbo is good for those who don't want over 300whp..... But that same tq is detrimental in dragging... traction is MUCH of an issue... wouldn't you agree?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Bah, your point of view is skewed b/c of the ATS final drive.....

I agree though, a small quick spooling turbo is good for those who don't want over 300whp..... But that same tq is detrimental in dragging... traction is MUCH of an issue... wouldn't you agree? </TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm having no traction issues in second gear at ~260whp.. my turbo isn't small and its not oversized, its just right for what powerbadnd i have.. i have much better throttle response at any rpm than i had with n/a plus torque you won't have with all motor.. so for track car, it would sure make it as well as top end for drag racing.. i can see what you are saying about heat issues. but these can be dealt with.

 

What is your setup if I may ask?
And do you have any reliability issues?
I have been contemplating whether to go N/A or FI lately and seeing how so many ITRs are being boosted without a problem, I've started heading over to the "darkside"

 

reliability should not be an issue at all with turbo, in fact if you're not pushing your setup and just driving, its just as reliable as if you didn't have turbo.. IM if you like for whatever questions you have about turbocharging..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> traction is MUCH of an issue... wouldn't you agree? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Absolutely. My ATS is going out for the stock unit this spring. Modulation of the gas pedal was not something I used to have to worry about.

 

big for you man im doing the same basic route i just wanted more power but still keep some reliablity good luck on urs...put up dyno plots when ur done...i'll post mine in a month or 2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i'm having no traction issues in second gear at ~260whp..</TD></TR></TABLE>


d00d, how long have you been around? I was KIDDING! :0

But seriously, my hatchback has traction issues in 2nd gear - and it only has ~185whp..... You talking about 24" slicks or something?

 

active i was talking to you i think in another thread about keeping it simply and staying away from that type of build. glad you came to your senses and saved about 4k

ive been doing a lil more research into a b20z bottom end and b16/gsr/or itr head

and it looks pretty damn nice

im going to sell my gsr block with jdm itr pistons and go with a b20z bottom end and gsr head. i know its not as "nice" but fug it i want to try something different

condisering you can get complete long blocks for 800 pretty easy.

then add
your itr head, maybe a thinner head gasket, a better header plus more tuning

and you should have an easy 190whp or 200whp with 140+ or 150 ft lbs of tq

all with oem reliability

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A 220-250whp allmotor car will pretty much smoke a 300whp boosted car... the thing about boost is that it takes a second to come on between shifts again... and the added heat makes it very difficult to have it reliable on track.

I'm still planning on boosting my itr. But 2L+ allmotor is the only way to go! (Good thing I have a hatch, eh? )</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm sure it could in a drag race, but from a roll this 250whp hatch would still destroy me. It pulled a car length on a TA that trapped 114.3mph.

CP pistons are for sale!

 

I just got done rebuiding mine with jdm itr pistons and skunk stage one cams. not the fastest set up but much better than i had with stock. I now have 15k on my rebuilt set up and no problems as of yet.
90k on the chassis on my 01

I am still debating jun 3's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


d00d, how long have you been around? I was KIDDING! :0

But seriously, my hatchback has traction issues in 2nd gear - and it only has ~185whp..... You talking about 24" slicks or something? </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats street tires (kumho mx) during summer.. i also had no traction issues in any gear at 200whp when i first got things going - summer time. i think powerband, torque starting to build much lower has much to do with it.