Molding my WW-RS kit on?
If I want to mold my WW-RS kit could I use normal fiberglass epoxy? I really only need it for the door caps because every other piece is on correctly. I dont think that the epozy is so strong that when I go to remove the kit in a year I will damage my car. Please give me some help lol.
Well I do all my own body work except paint. I have never tried to do any moulding but I have been curious. At this point I have only agreed to do bolt on kits for all friends and customers. I think that I would like to broaden my horizon and mould my kit. I am not worried about the moulding process just removing the body pieces. Please anyone who has or knows someone who has removed moulded body peices please let me know.
https://honda-tech.com/zeroforum?id=28
try the link above to the Appearance / Cosmetic board. Your question would be better answered there.
try the link above to the Appearance / Cosmetic board. Your question would be better answered there.
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If you use the right products it will flex with the movement and nothing will crack. Of course if you slap on some bondo or pep boys fiberglass to fill it will look like **** and you'll have cracks everywhere. When you're molding body panels together you really have to use the right products in both your plastic work and paint to make it all work right.
Don't do it. Talk to a guy who works at a body shop (not to 'talkers' on HT).. if they really care about their customers they wont mould plastic onto metal. there's a funny thing called 'expansion' that urathane and mild steel posses - but at differen't rates.
I did a motor swap on a 'show car' last winter that had everything shaved and moulded.. rear teg lights, widemouth bumper and shaved door handles.. a crx for ricers to drool over.
it started cracking even before it went for it's first drive.
focker still ows me money.. ohh well. out comes the dist. when i see his car this summer..
the moral of the story? don't "mould in", don't deal with ricers.
I did a motor swap on a 'show car' last winter that had everything shaved and moulded.. rear teg lights, widemouth bumper and shaved door handles.. a crx for ricers to drool over.
it started cracking even before it went for it's first drive.
focker still ows me money.. ohh well. out comes the dist. when i see his car this summer..
the moral of the story? don't "mould in", don't deal with ricers.
my side skirts dont fit up all the way i think my only choice is to mold them....thats the only thing i would mold though is the side skirts.........to do it right what should i use as apposed to bondo and kitty hair.....and eyeless where are you at in md cause i want to mold mine too
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't do it. Talk to a guy who works at a body shop (not to 'talkers' on HT).. if they really care about their customers they wont mould plastic onto metal. there's a funny thing called 'expansion' that urathane and mild steel posses - but at differen't rates.
I did a motor swap on a 'show car' last winter that had everything shaved and moulded.. rear teg lights, widemouth bumper and shaved door handles.. a crx for ricers to drool over.
it started cracking even before it went for it's first drive.
focker still ows me money.. ohh well. out comes the dist. when i see his car this summer..
the moral of the story? don't "mould in", don't deal with ricers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Talk to anyone in the body repair industry and they will point you toward Lord and their fusor products. You are another Honda-tech Talker. The car you worked on was amateur work.
147/148
Fusor Structural Urethane Installation Adhesive (Medium-Set)
Substrates
Installation and bonding of SMC, fiberglass, and painted and primed metal
Applications
Installation and bonding of body panels, spoilers and large ground effects
http://www.lord.com
I did a motor swap on a 'show car' last winter that had everything shaved and moulded.. rear teg lights, widemouth bumper and shaved door handles.. a crx for ricers to drool over.
it started cracking even before it went for it's first drive.
focker still ows me money.. ohh well. out comes the dist. when i see his car this summer..
the moral of the story? don't "mould in", don't deal with ricers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Talk to anyone in the body repair industry and they will point you toward Lord and their fusor products. You are another Honda-tech Talker. The car you worked on was amateur work.
147/148
Fusor Structural Urethane Installation Adhesive (Medium-Set)
Substrates
Installation and bonding of SMC, fiberglass, and painted and primed metal
Applications
Installation and bonding of body panels, spoilers and large ground effects
http://www.lord.com
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beta13 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are another Honda-tech Talker. The car you worked on was amateur work.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats an "ADHESIVE". Get a dictionary - you've obviously been over exposed to some of these products.. Bonding his panels to his car was never the issue. 'Blending' and molding in urethane to metal was what he wanted info on.
He can listen to whatever 'talker' he wants. But when his **** starts to crack he'll remember your dumb-*** post. Molding urethane to metal is not the right way to install the WW kit and it WILL crack.
Amateur enthusiests do that because they listen to tools like you. And it bites them in the *** later.
EyelessCRX - go to a crx meet and look and ask around. you'll find the answer you looking for.
i've had two WW kits installed and know about the fitment problems.. It wont look half as bad when everything is that same color!
Thats an "ADHESIVE". Get a dictionary - you've obviously been over exposed to some of these products.. Bonding his panels to his car was never the issue. 'Blending' and molding in urethane to metal was what he wanted info on.
He can listen to whatever 'talker' he wants. But when his **** starts to crack he'll remember your dumb-*** post. Molding urethane to metal is not the right way to install the WW kit and it WILL crack.
Amateur enthusiests do that because they listen to tools like you. And it bites them in the *** later.
EyelessCRX - go to a crx meet and look and ask around. you'll find the answer you looking for.
i've had two WW kits installed and know about the fitment problems.. It wont look half as bad when everything is that same color!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GRCCRX911 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Molding sucks. IF you launch hard or hit a roadbump -crack-</TD></TR></TABLE>
but you forgot cornering hard, and lifting the car up with a jack.
but you forgot cornering hard, and lifting the car up with a jack.
i had molded rear bumper side skirts and door caps on a crx.... cracked, realized mistake took it all off, got it mounted by a body shop now i work there haha, then got it repainted without molding..
basicly
DONT MOLD TRUST ME ITS NASTY ****...
plus it makes the old car look like a tibouron haha
basicly
DONT MOLD TRUST ME ITS NASTY ****...
plus it makes the old car look like a tibouron haha
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dan89crxsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my side skirts dont meet up though they are like a half inch down from where they are supposed to be but you say molding = no no???</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are they real WW skirts? 1/2" is a pretty crazy gap.
Are they real WW skirts? 1/2" is a pretty crazy gap.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thats an "ADHESIVE". Get a dictionary - you've obviously been over exposed to some of these products.. Bonding his panels to his car was never the issue. 'Blending' and molding in urethane to metal was what he wanted info on.
He can listen to whatever 'talker' he wants. But when his **** starts to crack he'll remember your dumb-*** post. Molding urethane to metal is not the right way to install the WW kit and it WILL crack.
Amateur enthusiests do that because they listen to tools like you. And it bites them in the *** later.
EyelessCRX - go to a crx meet and look and ask around. you'll find the answer you looking for.
i've had two WW kits installed and know about the fitment problems.. It wont look half as bad when everything is that same color!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I should have made my self more clear, you do the first layer of buildup with this product. It is an adhesive, it sticks to metal and urethane and can be painted over after being prepped. Fusor stays flexible unlike other bonding products. After that you'd want to move to 411 which is a plastics bonding agent. I only work in a body shop, you sit and read honda-tech all day, so you're probably right.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are they real WW skirts? 1/2" is a pretty crazy gap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have worked on two REAL wingswest kits this last month, one from newway autosports, and one directly from wings west new production facility in Mexico. They both had this same problem with the side skirts, the rear sections of the side skirts would not align on either car. I know they just changed their mold for the side skirts and that's why there was a huge back order on them for the last couple months, maybe it has something to do with this.
Thats an "ADHESIVE". Get a dictionary - you've obviously been over exposed to some of these products.. Bonding his panels to his car was never the issue. 'Blending' and molding in urethane to metal was what he wanted info on.
He can listen to whatever 'talker' he wants. But when his **** starts to crack he'll remember your dumb-*** post. Molding urethane to metal is not the right way to install the WW kit and it WILL crack.
Amateur enthusiests do that because they listen to tools like you. And it bites them in the *** later.
EyelessCRX - go to a crx meet and look and ask around. you'll find the answer you looking for.
i've had two WW kits installed and know about the fitment problems.. It wont look half as bad when everything is that same color!
</TD></TR></TABLE>I should have made my self more clear, you do the first layer of buildup with this product. It is an adhesive, it sticks to metal and urethane and can be painted over after being prepped. Fusor stays flexible unlike other bonding products. After that you'd want to move to 411 which is a plastics bonding agent. I only work in a body shop, you sit and read honda-tech all day, so you're probably right.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are they real WW skirts? 1/2" is a pretty crazy gap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have worked on two REAL wingswest kits this last month, one from newway autosports, and one directly from wings west new production facility in Mexico. They both had this same problem with the side skirts, the rear sections of the side skirts would not align on either car. I know they just changed their mold for the side skirts and that's why there was a huge back order on them for the last couple months, maybe it has something to do with this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beta13 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I only work in a body shop, you sit and read honda-tech all day, so you're probably right.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You need to cut down on your hours and go some car shows, parking lots and race tracks. You might know exactly how to do it the best way.. but the best way is still not the right way. It WILL crack and thats that - i don't need to work in a bodyshop to know that, i've had a modded EF for the past 6 years. You know very well how much these Honda tin cans flex, it's only a matter of time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beta13 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know they just changed their mold for the side skirts and that's why there was a huge back order on them for the last couple months, maybe it has something to do with this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just put a new generation side skirt before i painted my CRX. My skirt is not perfectly flush with the bottom stock side skirt, i had alot of trouble around the back inside corner asswell.. WW should get a backhand for for sending that crap to the production line.
I choose to bring it up a bit and keep it about an 1/8" down form the body line. The door caps were put on to follow the side skirt lines and it looks pretty good. I could take pics if you want.. but nah - you can't get good info "reading honda-tech all day"
You need to cut down on your hours and go some car shows, parking lots and race tracks. You might know exactly how to do it the best way.. but the best way is still not the right way. It WILL crack and thats that - i don't need to work in a bodyshop to know that, i've had a modded EF for the past 6 years. You know very well how much these Honda tin cans flex, it's only a matter of time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beta13 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know they just changed their mold for the side skirts and that's why there was a huge back order on them for the last couple months, maybe it has something to do with this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just put a new generation side skirt before i painted my CRX. My skirt is not perfectly flush with the bottom stock side skirt, i had alot of trouble around the back inside corner asswell.. WW should get a backhand for for sending that crap to the production line.
I choose to bring it up a bit and keep it about an 1/8" down form the body line. The door caps were put on to follow the side skirt lines and it looks pretty good. I could take pics if you want.. but nah - you can't get good info "reading honda-tech all day"
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are they real WW skirts? 1/2" is a pretty crazy gap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes real ww side skirts has WW logo on the inside maybe im just dumb and didnt put them on right....i did it in kind of a hurry cause my shop was about to close and I had to drive it home...maybe ill just take them off and have the body shop put them on or someone could come over and help me heheh
Are they real WW skirts? 1/2" is a pretty crazy gap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes real ww side skirts has WW logo on the inside maybe im just dumb and didnt put them on right....i did it in kind of a hurry cause my shop was about to close and I had to drive it home...maybe ill just take them off and have the body shop put them on or someone could come over and help me heheh
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dan89crxsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...or someone could come over and help me heheh
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Take your time with stuff like that bud. I shows up in the end.. if ya need help you can always buy me a plane ticket!
</TD></TR></TABLE>Take your time with stuff like that bud. I shows up in the end.. if ya need help you can always buy me a plane ticket!
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MrD
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I have my sideskirts molded from my WW kit and they came like that.. I wish I could take them off put the shop said it'd be at least 250 just to take it all off


