Searched. That being said, i have the kit here and it has one bushing for passenger side of rack (big ring bushings), and 4 small bushings for the drivers side. I'm assuming the drivers side is just taking the 2 bolts off near the column connection and swapping out those bushings easily...Am i right? Next for the passenger side, do i have to take off the tie rod end and rod boot to get this bushing onto the rack? Or could i just cut the bushing and put it right around the rack (would be a ton easier).

More importantly...are the Urethane steering rack bushings that effective? Of all the bushings on my car being replaced these look almost brand new. Has anyone felt a significant difference in steering quality?

Thanks,

Vince

 

hmmm call or write ES on that one and they might be able to help you

 

I replaced everything at once so i noticed a big difference but i wouldnt cut anything that wasnt cut when you got it...just take your time and take stuff off and put i back together you'll be more happy with end product.

DEF

 

You need to drop the rack and disconect the steering and tie ends, the steering is cake to drop just take out the 10mm inside the car near the floor that holds the rack to the steering shaft, thats how i did mine

 

I did 3 of the 4 cup looking ones.... Couldn't get out the "pin" easy enough for me, so I said fack it.... Passenger was easy.

 

You know how you alwaays see people ask about thse kits after they've bought them. Well do they come with decent instructions? or does it just come with crappy ones?

 

the instructions are pretty shitty

 

yeah it basically says go read your service manual and if you are lucky you get a little basic sketch of what looks like the right part. The LCA/UCA's are pretty straight forward though...

I just didn't want to take off the passenger side tie rod end and boot...but looks like i hafta. So the drivers side is harder? can you explain?

Vince

 

You'll need to disconnect the knuckle joint inside the car to drop the rack enough to be able to remove the metal casings inside of the bushings. Then just take off the 14/17mm nut of the pass side tie rod end on the kncukle and pop it out, then slide the bushing over that. Pretty easy to do, hardest part is putting the rack back and and making sure it's lined up properly with the wheel. Helps to have someone help to line up the knuckle when you're trying to put it all back together. Oh, and yes, it makes a noticable difference.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skelly ed6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did 3 of the 4 cup looking ones.... Couldn't get out the "pin" easy enough for me, so I said fack it.... Passenger was easy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ditto, I did the same thing. Til it was time to change the rack.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX-RX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You'll need to disconnect the knuckle joint inside the car to drop the rack enough to be able to remove the metal casings inside of the bushings. Then just take off the 14/17mm nut of the pass side tie rod end on the kncukle and pop it out, then slide the bushing over that. Pretty easy to do, hardest part is putting the rack back and and making sure it's lined up properly with the wheel. Helps to have someone help to line up the knuckle when you're trying to put it all back together. Oh, and yes, it makes a noticable difference. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You say slide the big (passenger side) bushing onto the rack over the tie rod end but will it clear the big rubber boot thats on the tie rod pivot point? Or does it just take a lot of squishing and forcing to get it over...

If you say it makes a noticable difference then i've got to do it! haha THanks!


Vince

 

I may have had my boot off when I did it, don't remember, might not fit with the boot on there. May want to look into that, or take the easy route and cut a slit in the bushing, good enough for stock, good enough for aftermarket.

 

so the stock bushings is cut? ahhh ha! or are you poking fun because i suggested that above. i cant tell...hehe.

Vince

 

Yup, stock one is cut

 

done deal mine will be cut...you know i'm not one to take shorcuts, especially with my car. But trying to do the whole master kit by myself is really waring me down.

My next question...is there anyway of getting the rear trailing arm bushing out/in withough taking off the rear hub/brakes. Could i just drop the arm to the floor and burn the rubber out then cut the outer shell while it's still connected to the hub?

lol...i sound like the most lazy mechanic.

 

It can be done, but you'll spend just as much time swearing about it as if you just dropped it in the first place. just hang the caliper, disconnect the e-brake cable, then unbolt all of the chassis mounting bolts and take all the arms off together. May want to brake all the bolts on the arm, that you can reach, loose first if your car is rusty at all. Getting the TA bushing installed is kind of awkward, so I find it easier to do off of the car.

 

cool thanks, yeah i've got rear drums that's why i dont want to take them off. Just a pain to deal with in my opinion.

Thanks again,

Vince

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AgentJam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">done deal mine will be cut...you know i'm not one to take shorcuts, especially with my car. But trying to do the whole master kit by myself is really waring me down.

My next question...is there anyway of getting the rear trailing arm bushing out/in withough taking off the rear hub/brakes. Could i just drop the arm to the floor and burn the rubber out then cut the outer shell while it's still connected to the hub?

lol...i sound like the most lazy mechanic.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The master kit doesnt have the rear trailing arm bushing, u need to get the prothane ones for 100 bucks.

 

i got the ES trailing arm bushings kit when i bought the master kit. I know i have to use the stock hardware as well but it only cost me ~ $27.

Vince

 

The large ES rack bushing is split, not one continuos ring. Should go oun without taking half the car appart. I got the Black EX master kit, and the Trailing arm bushing kit and a shifter kit for an integra. (car has integra trailing arms and a B16 in it. Everything is done except the steering rack bushing that I install tonight.

The trailing arm bushings were easiest to do, the control arm bushings are a MO FO. Took me the entire day saturday to burn the bushings out and cut the sleeve out.

 

how'd you do the trailing arms? I'm planning on just burning the rubber out while the arm is just hanging, withought taking the rear hubs off.

I just realized that the ES master kit does not include some bushings in the upper compensator arm, are there any others missing? Where is this located and do most people not replace them?

Vince

 

OOPS - edit, saw you said trailing arms. You MIGHT be able to do it on the car, but I would not do it because the drivers side being so close to the gas tank. For saftey sake.


Hate to burst your bubble but there is no way in hell you are going to do that on the car. Was a major Pain in the butt to do it off the car. The sleeves have to come out. And that is whats hard. Its only the trailing arm bushings that retain the sleeves. Haven't driven the car yet with them. But will in next few days. The inner LCA were definately the worse for the wear. so it needed the kit anyway. Will let you know how they feel, once I get the rack bushings on (tonight) and get it realigned I can take it out. (tomorrow at the earliest). I got trailing arms from a 93 integra, to match the SiR fron stuff (knuckle and Upper control arms with brakes)

 

Wait...either you just contradicted yourself, or i'm reading this wrong. Probably #2 .

You said i could probably do the Rear trailing arm with it still connected to the hub but then you said that i wouldn't be able to do it? Can't i just take the LCA's off the rear and burn/cut them off myself, then do the same to whatever bushings need to be replaced on the top of the hub?

From what i understand the only part that can't come off the car without the hub coming off is the rear trailing arm...the rest can be removed as is...

Maybe i'm wrong.

Vince

 

OK, let me try again. The trailing arm bushings could be done on the car, IF, you seperate the brake line take off upper and lower control arms and take the compensator arm off the trailing arm, NOT OFF THE BODY. It will swing far enough away you could do it, with E-brake cables still attached, I burned out the rubber, polished up the steel sleeve with a abrasive flap wheel ina drill. I used a BIG bench vise to pop bushings in after greasing them up good. The pin that needs reused was a bitch to reinstall even with grease. Off the car. Polish it up well (used a brass wire wheel on a bench press with the speed cranked up to max. was like a miriror. so it doesent eat away at the busshing. But then its off the car not really on it. get it as far from the fuel tank as possible. it just takes fumes to hit the flames to end your life, or if you are lucky just burn up your car.

the control arms you have to do off the car, because sleaves need to come out. If you can get them to a place to press them out please do so. They are a royal MO FO to burn out and cut out sleeves.

 

alright well looks like i'm just going to end up taking the whole hub off...i just hate messing with drum brakes. They're not fun to take on and off and such...stupid springs and arms...