Camber kit ???
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D21X »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its too hard to explain in words. anyone got a pic??</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree
There are too many steps in the process
I agree
There are too many steps in the process
Ya'll KNOW i got a pic
...this pic is from the side of the fender showing where its located; here it is:
All you can see is on the right side

And yes thats the best pic I have of them so
...this pic is from the side of the fender showing where its located; here it is:All you can see is on the right side

And yes thats the best pic I have of them so
Im not to sure were it goes on an accord, Ive done a hand full of wheel alignments, some camber kits connect at the two bolts holding in the strut, some use your lower control arms depending on the car, but when i put my accord on the alignment rack to diagnos the alignment, the computer told me that there arent any kits for the rear camber and no optional adjustments to be made to it, but there are a few kits out on the market for the front. Using factory parts you can adjust the front and rear, caster and toe by doing a caster swing and adjusting the tie rod ends. Any way what a camber kit dose is allows you to dial in either positive or negative camber to each side depending on how off you are from factory settings, the problem with this is that the computer reads your car as being at factory ride hight and dosnt compensate for any adjustment in made to your suspension, so if you have lowering springs or coil-overs the alignment rack might say your car is correctly aligned and your car might drive straight, but you might have some tread wear, but its such a small difference you'll probably smoke your tires bald before you can feel the differance.
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it works by pull and push, if your looking at the car from the front, and the top of lets say the driver side wheel is out to the right farther fom the bottom you have to much positive caber. and if the top is in to the left closer than the bottom you have negative camber. what your trying to do is set the camber to spec. that always dosnt mean having 0 camber, some times spec is a little possitive or negative. the kit gives you an object like a tie rod end, were you have an adjustable shaft and a lock nut. so you either losen or tighten the adjustment shaft, set to spec, and set the lock.
Edit: Here is a great write up on dropping and camber kits etc:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/sh...d=470
Modified by VRDrvr at 9:30 PM 2/20/2004
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/sh...d=470
Modified by VRDrvr at 9:30 PM 2/20/2004
What's circled is the upper A-arm balljoint. The radius arm that has lines on either side of it it just drawing attention to the angle of the arm.

The adjustable balljoint allows the joint where the upper A-arm and radius arm meet (circled) to move outwards, thus moving the angle of the radius arm(radius arm moves in direction of arrow) and correcting the camber of the tire.
The adjustable balljoint allows the joint where the upper A-arm and radius arm meet (circled) to move outwards, thus moving the angle of the radius arm(radius arm moves in direction of arrow) and correcting the camber of the tire.
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