so yea i've been out there for 1.5 hours trying to jam my hand up under the dash to replace my clutch switch, i figure that's the problem w/ my car not wanting to start lately (changed starter, ignition switch, main relay ect..) so i bought a switch from honda today, and now i'm having a b*tch of a time getting it off my clutch pedal. i've cut the crap out of my hand.... and i thought maybe i could get better access to it from behind my cluster (by removing it) but there's a big heater pipe there....

how can i get at the connector and the switch easier????

btw- clutch interlock switch from honda dealer 41$ and change...


Modified by Nismo240sx1 at 7:53 PM 2/20/2004

 

Take the whole dash out

 

 

turn ur whole arm like mister fantastics haha

anyways, all i can say is...keep trying bro, it's the only way...we all go through this at one time or another....but if u must vent, vent away

 

I did it by unbolting the steering column and removing the entire pedal assembly as a unit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMB16ACRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">turn ur whole arm like mister fantastics haha

anyways, all i can say is...keep trying bro, it's the only way...we all go through this at one time or another....but if u must vent, vent away </TD></TR></TABLE>

yup that's what i've been doing but then it gets stuck.... since i don't have the connector off it.... my hands all cut up and sore now.... booo hooo lol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did it by unbolting the steering column and removing the entire pedal assembly as a unit. </TD></TR></TABLE>

how hard was that, and how long did it take you, wouldn't you have to readjust everything,.... can i just drop the steering column and be able to get at it easier from above instead of below???

 

Its tough to get to that switch without taking off the steering column , pedal assembly, heater passages, and the front seat. Have you already tried to jump the connectors of the switch to complete the circuit? Its a lot easier to do than changing the switch, and you wont need to use the clutch pedal to start the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by [626 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rj-SiHatchy]Its tough to get to that switch without taking off the steering column , pedal assembly, heater passages, and the front seat. Have you already tried to jump the connectors of the switch to complete the circuit? Its a lot easier to do than changing the switch, and you wont need to use the clutch pedal to start the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

can'te get the connector off, wondering if wires are freyed so i want to see it too before i put it all back together... i want it done right...

 

just reach up there cut the two wires and twist them together and do away with that switch. Then take that new one back to honda and get your money back.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nismo240sx1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how hard was that, and how long did it take you, wouldn't you have to readjust everything,.... can i just drop the steering column and be able to get at it easier from above instead of below???</TD></TR></TABLE>

It was pretty annoying, to say the least. Took about four hours, I'd say. You could definitely try it by dropping the column though.

 

i'm definately going to do that tomarrow when i get home from work (drop the column). hope it works, i just want to swap out a new one because i haven't skimped on anything and shorting the switch out is not my idea of a almost perfect oem car..... can't help it i'm ****.

 

Wait a minute.....

Did you test/replace the Starter Relay?

(You didn't mention it in your list above)

 

i'll try that when i get home from work maybe

 

[/QUOTE]

damn that's clean! so yea changed it out today, and still nothing! but!!! to check it i had to tighten back down my clutch switch and well, guess what it starts now i guess the switch contacts are getting warn and it wasn't making good enough contact w/ the amount of pressure the clutch pedal was putting on it.... soooo..... it's fixed till it warms up then i'm gonna tear it all out again and change it with the new one i got.... thanks to everyone for the info

for anyone who later searches and finds this.... my reccomendation is use or learn how to use a multimeter.... i know how to use one but my stupid craftsman box is stuck shut

 

I'm thinking it my clutch switch, too, changed out my starter, main relay, and ignitor. The Helms manula sayd to adjust the "B" nut, when replacing the clutch switch. Do you screw in the clutch switch all the way and then tighten it with the "B" nut, or what? I was under there just now trying to tighten the nut and it was already pretty tight.

 

to adjust, loosen b nut, and screw the switch in about 1/4 --&gt; 1/2 a turn then tighten that brass nut check for proper operation... then repeat or move on.... to remove and replace the only way i know of is to drop the column or remove the dash.

 

k, I'll try tightenning it, before I replace it then.

 

on my old beater, we just cut the wires going into the switch and crimped them together,,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowpokesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on my old beater, we just cut the wires going into the switch and crimped them together,, </TD></TR></TABLE>

u can do that, but then it will start w/ out the clutch pushed in, which is very dangerous.... and i wanted to keep mine as stock and oem as possible

 

Man, I'm glad I have an 88.

 

i could see how it could be dangerous, but i just pretended that i never did it and always pushed my clutch in to start the car

so its not really dangerous unless you make it dangerous, i drove it that way for like 4 years never had an incident.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowpokesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i could see how it could be dangerous, but i just pretended that i never did it and always pushed my clutch in to start the car

so its not really dangerous unless you make it dangerous, i drove it that way for like 4 years never had an incident.</TD></TR></TABLE>

true i just want the car as oem as possible **** but the car's 14 years old and my baby so it only get's the good stuff.

 

have you checked main relay..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XtraFastCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you checked main relay.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yup, it's the clutch switch it's goin bad bitc$ to replace

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nismo240sx1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u can do that, but then it will start w/ out the clutch pushed in, which is very dangerous.... and i wanted to keep mine as stock and oem as possible</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, have a clutch switch is more dangerous that not having one. Take a second to think about that.

On the topic of keeping it OEM and stock. I have an 88 crx si and it came from the factory WITHOUT a clutch switch. With 88 crx's you don't have to push in the clutch to start them and that's from the factory.

So if you remove your clutch switch, your car is just as OEM as mine was in 1988.