I was reading the post on the Hard Motor Break-In and i was wondering if anyone had did it and what the results were.. also i would like to know what people think about this concept

 

Its good for making a fast engine, i did it on my bike, and i would defently do it on my bikes from now on because my bike stock was noticably faster than my friends bikes who broke their's in acorrding to the owner manual...I wouldn't recommend that type of break in on a car unless you plan to strictly race the car because i heard it reduces the engine life a great deal.

edit : i've heard "drive it hard for a fast engine, drive it like a grandma for a engine that will last"

 

I did it on my LS engine rebuild. Seems to work pretty well. It's been running for over 3000mi now and everything seems fine. I'm gonna yank the head in a few weeks to see how's the internal look.

 

And what do you mean by "hard motor braek in"? How hard?

Two fat black stripes out of the garage where you build your engine in?

 

I broke my lsvtec in real hard when then second that oil
was in the motor and havent had any problems with it
over 30K later
my car ran hard everday

 

so you dont have your car anymore?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gaskleppie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And what do you mean by "hard motor braek in"? How hard?

Two fat black stripes out of the garage where you build your engine in?
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Sounds like someones over excited. Sounds fun. I would like to see that
btw LOL @ gaskleppie

 

How to Break in/Use a Brand new engine.

Here is a question answer format to help the world understand how motors work and how to use them most reliably. This part on breaking in a motor is opinion

#1 I got a brand new block/engine and I want to break it in properly. What should I do first? A most common question. The answer is surprisingly simplistic. I start by asking myself "what would be IDEAL, or perfect". Well, this is what you do. When you get the motor in the car, and are ready to start it up make sure you have an oil pressure gauge installed. Install a wide band O2 sensor to read 02 ratio BEFORE YOU START IT. Then unplug the distributor and crank it over until you get oil pressure, should take a short time, under a minute sometimes. Then plug the distributor back in, and start it up with whatever program you have. Notice the air fuel ratio. The car is warming up, so its going to read a little rich at first. When the car fully warms up you want the air/fuel ratio to be as close to 14.7:1 as possible. Immediately adjust your tuning to make it 14.7 at idle right away. Use a injector multiplier change if you have management, if you don't, use a fuel pressure regulator for starts... Then when you get the car at 14.7 at idle, and make it idle at around 800-900 RPM, make sure the timing is at about 13-16 degrees. Now, with the air/fuel ratio meter working, take the car for a short drive on the dyno, or the street, driving as you would normally. DO NOT put the throttle past say 50%. Make sure the air/fuel ratio is around 14.7:1, but not over 15:1 all throughout the gears up to say, 4500 RPM. Now your car is drive able. You can drive it within those parameters ONLY. Which in English means: less than 50% throttle, and under 4500 RPMS ONLY. Until you tune for whatever area you want to drive in.

#2 Now I can drive it, when do I tune it? Well, there are 1000 opinions out on this one, but we do it this way, and its absolutely proven. We drive the car a few miles on the street, at 14.7:1 to make sure there are no problems with the motor, no coolant leaks, etc...then it goes straight on the dyno, where we start the real tuning.

#3 How do you tune a motor now that I am on the dyno? I will right an expended section on this, but follow these parameters. Start fine tuning your normal throttle, like freeway driving, 60% throttle, 70% throttle, etc...then go to like 2k RPM and do a pull to say 5K RPM full throttle. For all motor, adjust the air/fuel at FULL all throughout the band to anywhere from 13:1 to say 13.5:1. That's pretty safe. If you start to floor it at 2k, and it reads 18:1 Air/Fuel ratio, IMMEDIATELY LET OFF! You do a full pass like that its disaster! Boy you REALLY have to trust your tuner. SERIOUS! Ok. So then after up to 5k is tuned, you go to 6k, then 7, then 8, then max. Of course, when your adjusting for 5k, your adjusting everything up to redline, even though you have not tried that yet...chances are, its going to need it too. Your not going to need -20% at 5k, then +10% at 8k in my experience...based off a stock map. It will generally go all up, or all down. Generally. So now your done.

 

i just drove mine for 1,500 mile s then changed the oil then drove another 500 miles then romped on it

 

oil change at 500, 1000, 2000, then i started to get on it

 

I changed mine at 300, and noticed ring material in the oil after just that much, never went over 3k. Then from 300-1000 gently went to 4500, changed oil again at 1200 (thats where it happened to be on the weekend), then eased it up to 6k as 2000 miles approached and its running smooth so far to 7500rpm.. Make sure your a/f is high, your spark plugs should be a smooth tan/brown if you dont have a a/f meter. If they are white you are lean.

 

Break it in on the nitrous it works pretty good from past experience...

 

once a block has been machined and then assembled once the car is ready to start, fill with straight 30 weight oil and let the motor idle until it reaches operating temp then shut it off and drain the oil. Refill the oil with whatever u are going to run, then change at 500 miles , then periodically from there on(2000 miles). But as far as a hard break in is concerned, as an engineering major with some expierence with engine building both practical and theoretical the parts that u buy for your blocks are not racecar parts(despite what u may think) and they need to be properly broken in to assure that all of the appropriate areas are recieving all the fluid flow they need, as well as not exceeding the tolerances of the materials. if u beat on an engine that has just been assembled the metals will expand at an unpredictable rate cause unplanned stresses , these strains can lead to cracks, breaks or failures. These are not always such a concern on a racecar motor where the engine itself will not see that many miles, as well as have the parts specifically engineered for that application, not a made to fit application like on a street car