ok my block was recently rebuilt. after ~20 miles of breakin i noticed that coolant was leaking from the front pass side of the motor.
i pulled the head off and had it check, it was .002ish. so i had him mill the (since i already had it off) so now the head is fine.
i ordered a new HG and we put everything back together, torqued everything down right.
but when i started up the motor, i was billowing white smoke and you could tell/smell it was burning coolant. then it slowly got better, by the time i got back from the test drive, it appeared to be only steam (CO temp were ~ 20*F) coming out of the exhaust. but why would i be burning coolant? i just had the head milled and replaced the HG?? could there be coolant left over from the previos HG problem?
we didnt want to mess with it that night, so i shut it down.
the next day when i started it up, no smoke. i seemed to run fine and no overheating. but today when i got home from work, my engine bay was smoking. i popped the hood and see coolant pouring down the block (this time its on the driverside back of the block, near the alternator) i checked the overflow container and it had sucked all that out. when i poured more coolant into the radiator it would start runnin out of the back of the block.

im not sure why/how i can be blowing HG this fast. since the head was only .002ish, i dont think the block is warped. i know we put the HG on right. it was torqued down to 5lbs over because of the arp studs.

anyone have any ideas as to why i am having these problems?
thank you in advance
kelly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by llewsirc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. it was torqued down to 5lbs over because of the arp studs.

kelly</TD></TR></TABLE>

5lbs over?

I would check the specs again. But last time I did a head with ARP's (using the ARP lube of course) the torque spec was MUCH LOWER than stock, not higher. You may have damaged the threads in the block now, and the studs are pulling out (which I have seen before), cost the guy a block.

 

i just talked to arp,
they said 60 with moly lube and 70 with 30w.
we were using moly lube. stock torque specs are 53, we went 58.

if it was the studs giving way, i would think there would be coolant coming from all around the head?

 

update.


i just pulled the IM off and here is a few pics pics:

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
it kinda looks like it blew from 2 places.
up by the head, and where the pipe comin from the thermo stat connects to the block.

^^^^^^^^^^
traces of what looks like coolant that has leaked from between head and block.

^^^^^^^^^^^^
pipe coming from thremostat. i think the oring in here blew.

another pic showing 2 differnt places where coolant is leaking?


any idea why? i wasnt driving it hard. coolant resivor was filled to the MAX line friday night. so it ate all of that and still blew.


thanks




Modified by llewsirc at 8:44 PM 2/18/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by llewsirc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">update.

another pic showing 2 differnt places where coolant is leaking?


any idea why? i wasnt driving it hard. coolant resivor was filled to the MAX line friday night. so it ate all of that and still blew.


thanks


Modified by llewsirc at 8:44 PM 2/18/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think you should replace the O-ring on that pipe, a lot of time when people rebuild motors and put it back together they pinch the o-ring inside
that's were I think it's leaking from, do that first before doing anything else

 

i went and got a new o ring from napa.

but why is there so much pressure on my cooling system?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by llewsirc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i went and got a new o ring from napa.

but why is there so much pressure on my cooling system?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Um, cooling systems run between 0.9 and 1.1 bar (depending on rad cap) that is 13 to 16 Psi. [liquid get hot = expansion = pressure]

Unfortunately changing that o-ring can be a pain, although you already have the I.M. off, so that makes it much easier.

I usually use a little bit of Honda grey on the o-ring, mostly because it allows the o-ring to slide in easier without folding over.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by llewsirc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i dont think the block is warped. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you check it with a straight edge?

 

no havent checked it.
i didnt think there was a ned to since the head was not that far outta specs.

 

Did you change the o-ring? any new news?

 

i got a different oring. i sealed it but i dont trust it enough to drive it around town. i am either gonna order a new oring from magestic-honda. or scavage it from the y8 im picking up saturday.

any other suggestions?